Archive through July 19, 2007

[wheinsohn]

Thom,
I pull a 48" spike aerator and a 48" thatcher at the same time behind my 106 in 2nd gear at about 1/4 throttle. The aerator and thatcher both have 3 cement blocks on them for weight. The aerator goes in about 2-3" depending on how hard the ground is. The main problem is not power to pull them but weight to keep from slipping. An old cub cadet weighs more than most 26 hp Lowe's special do now.

 

[mgonitzke]

I'm not sure what luck I'll have keeping the 4 good rubbers. I can almost pull one side of the motor off of the tractor. Are the upper and lower ones the same in the original style? I don't quite have the motor out yet, so this hasn't been revealed to me. Also, about what does the 759-3952 kit cost? I assume I'll need 4 of them, worst case scenario.

Charlie-

I don't think that was my suggestion either, but, whatever...

 

[lbuttke]

Back to the 129 with a clutch for a moment.

I think I rember some talk a while back about a clutch kit you could install on hydro cubs to help with cold winter starting.
Depress the clutch, start the motor without having to turn over the hydro pump at the same time.
OR
Was I just having another wild idea and thought I heard it here first.

 

[mgonitzke]

Lonny-

That's not a gear drive's clutch, it's a centrifugal clutch mounted near the input shaft of the transmission. So you're about 1/2 right....

 

[ddevoe]

Anyone have any sure fire tips for cleaning a gas tank (plastic from a 1250) thats been sitting for several years? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[lbuttke]

Matt.
1/2 right is better than all wrong.

David D.
A sure <font color="ff0000">fire</font> <font color="000000">way to clean the plastic tank is to use </font><font color="ff0000"><font size="+1">FIRE</font></font>

 

[glippert]

Shane P - That's a nice looking plug aerator. Is it a custom model, readily available? What kind of hitch does it have? I'd like a good plug-type, but all I've found around here is the cheaply made pull behind variety with very widely spaced pluggers.

 

[ctrost]

alright, somebody delete the post if it isn't allowed... but this poor 169.... did you know that the K-341 was an ECOTEC?
http://tinyurl.com/2pt46o
Item number: 190133675963

 

[lhinds]

David; I use sheetrock screws and paint thinner to cleam my gas tanks. Shake then let sit overnight then shake more. 2 lb screws with .5 pint paint thinner. Depending how tank is made you may have to remove some screws with a magnet. Tried A chain in A original tank once, It is still in there wraped around the baffles. LUTHER

 

[tprechtel]

Anyone have any experience with solid mounting a QL Motor? Brian Millers site offers these? Not sure if I can live with the shakes!

 

[mgonitzke]

Tom P.-

Why on earth would you want to do that? Those solid mounts are for pulling tractors. Your tractor will shake more with solid mounts that with the isomounts.

 

[ddevoe]

Luther, thanks I might try that. Lonnie, fire seems a bit drastic especially regarding future use of the tank, although as a last desperate measure I'll keep it in mind.

 

[speterson]

Hey Lip,
It is one I found at an impliment dealer who gave me a great price as it was his last one and he needed the space.
It was made for a three-point. Here is a pic of a piece I added so I can connect it to a cub and still use the three-point if desired.

It seems like someone saw them on ebay a while back, but the prices were quite a bit more than I paid for this one.

 

[digger]

Shane,
Seems they are mainly importers now.
http://www.leinbachs.com/leinbachline/machinery.html

 

[jsimpson]

149 did a great job today on high weeds in the east pasture. Thanks for the carb help!

 

[mbounds]

Tom P: Brian Miller is a puller...so if you are only gonna go bout 50 feet for about 30-45 seconds or so when you use the 1650...go ahead and put those solid mounts in there - your bones & teeth will survive those short bursts.... However, if you are gonna plow or mow for several hours at a time then you might just want to rethink even considering such...Yes, I own a 1650. Yes, I did the Kirk IsoBar modification and am deeelighted...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[digger]

John S.
Glad to hear your back up and runnin.

 

[dfrisk]

WES H. - I think Kraig may have a pic of My home-made aerator hooked to My 982's Cat O 3-pt ready to run.... I used to work at a company in Moline, IL that made scrap metal cutting shear blades, solid chunks of cast alloy hardened steel and I use between 400# and 500# of scrap blades to weight My aerator. I also can only go about 3 to 3-1/2" deep 'cause that's all the longer the teeth are! But unless I hit a tree root it's ALWAYS that deep. It pulls harder the slower I go...but even with the fast 2nd gear I could run easily in 2nd gear with the tired old K241. With My new K321 I won't have ANY problem! It pulls just about as hard as My 10" moldboard plow.

 

[mgonitzke]

Got the motor out of the 1650...man that's a heavy thing for one guy to lift out...anyway, all 4 lower rubbers were in pieces along with the snubbers, the tops were intact, but one seemed softer that the other 3, so I think I'm gonna go ahead and buy the new CCC ones, to the tune of $80+ for the 2 snubbers and 4 isomount kits. I read in the FAQ that I should only tighten those so that 1 thread is showing on each bolt, is that still the recommended way to go with that?

 

[digger]

Matt G.
Depending on which way you go with the rubbers, You have to kinda adjust a little and try'um out.
I had one that took 3 times to get it fine tuned.
It doesn't take much to tell a huge difference.