Archive through January 16, 2009

[dfrisk]

JERRY - Not sure how true this story is but many yrs ago I was told by a supplier to CAT that CAT made FIVE times as much profit selling service & repair parts on their equipment as they ever did selling the equipment new.

I have to agree, CC's probably weren't supposed to last 40+ yrs, that's why things like the steering gearboxes and driveshafts wear out. Really besides that there isn't much that ever goes wrong with them.

On Kevin's clutch drive plate I agree 100% on the balance issue, a very small amount of weld that far away from the crankshaft centerline would make a HUGE imbalance at full RPM. The weak spot I've always been able to find in the drivetrain on GD Cubbies is the very back rollpin in the driveshaft, the pin in the front of the coupler, the driveshaft hole wears egg-shaped and really starts hammering the pin. It's one of only two places a single rollpin drives the whole tractor and the rear pin in the coupler goes thru heat-treated 1045 steel while the OEM driveshaft is cheap normalized 1018 at best. The driveshaft wears and saves the reduction pinion. The clutch plates are both pinned to the driveshaft and share the driving force from the friction disc to the shaft so seldom ever wear. I wanted to have MWSC make Me a longer rear coupler for My 72 so I could put a second bolt/rollpin in My 72 when I put the K321 in two yrs ago but Julian didn't understand what I wanted I guess. So I'm "Testing" His 4140 pre-hardened driveshafts to see how much better they last than the stock CC driveshafts.

With those three drive pins so far from the center of the driveshaft there really shouldn't be that much force on those pins. I think something is hitting one of the pins and bending it and the plate, then bindng the friction disc up and breaking stuff. If it was a 1000 or 1200 with the thin drive disc I would say different but the older tractors have a much thicker disc.

SCOTT - Look on the serial # tag and make sure it's a QA-42 or QA-42a, make sure You have lift rod, chute adjusting rod & support, mounting adapter, gearbox. driveshaft, belt, and the scraping edge is in good shape, no "Chunks" out of the auger, Also make sure the discharge chute adjustable chute is there.

The serial # tag is on the top front surface right in front of the discharge chute.

 

[dfrisk]

ART - What You may want to try is to drill out the holes even further, Say 5/16" or 3/8", then use a Grade #8 fine thread bolt & nut to try to draw that collar together. I tried that without cutting the slit on My 72 and didn't really work well. I do have a new steering arm about 3/4 done that bolts & clamps to the spindle that I started maybe 20 yrs ago. If THAT doesn't work there's always the Blue Box! (I said that but don't mean it!)

 

[sstanton]

Dennis, thanks for the info!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Art, you are welcome to use my drill press....

 

[edale]

Hey guys!

Now that my snow thrower is working there is no snow in the 10 day forecast. Figures. Anyway...

Dose anyone have a good photo of the front of a 982, mine is missing the grill and lights, Also the hood hinges don't look original, is there supposed to be something that keeps the hood from opening all the way over and just hanging on the hinges?

BTW, you guys have been a great help. Thanks

-edale

 

[jbliler]

Dennis, guess I do see your point on parts & service money. Would be nice if IH was still getting the money. Still it is nice of MTD to think of us now and then.. Didn't think about you having an "in" with MWSC.
I have to think that the main bearings on the Kohlor would take the vibration from a welded disc but I would hate to give it the 16-hp shake!

 

[ljerickson]

Art,

I did the split modification on the steering arm and it has worked out OK.

Here's a picture (maybe):

And another:

And one more:

It's important to get the bolt as tight as possible. So, go for the fine threads. Also, socket head capscrews usually can take a bit more torque than grade 8. For 5/16-24, I'd recommend 27 ft-lbf tops dry. If your turning and the torque doesn't go up stop. That's all that the fastener's got.

Notice that I filed some flats under the bolt heads and nuts. Important for keeping things tight!

Good luck!
Lee

 

[ljerickson]

I forgot to mention: I did this with a hacksaw blade. The hacksaw blade is plenty wide, but the weld is heat treated to all sorts of of hardnesses, so start out with a fresh pack of hacksaw blades and don't hesitate to change when working through the weld.

Lee

 

[aaytay]

Lee-
Thanks for posting that write-up on the steering-arm-split mod. I was thinking of just splitting the lower tubular "bushing" section of the steering-arm and hoping that the two sides would come together with a bolt, but I like how you split the top of the arm as well to allow for it to move together more completely.

I may take the lazy way out and see if I can clamp the arm into my chop saw and then slowly drop the blade into it.

Thanks again!

Charlie-
Does Lee's write up look like something that's worthy of your FAQ? I know a lot of guys have narrow frames with this very problem, so he gets my vote!

 

[kharvey]

Art do a search for taper reamer. Someone posted last summer about reaming and use a taper pin in place of the spirol pin or bolt. I have done this on three tractors this last year. The reamer and a dozen pins cost about 30 dollars at Fastenal.

 

[mstetar]

has anyone ever made a 3-point brush hog for a cub, that uses a rear PTO, if not how hard would it be to fab one up?
just an idea.

 

[aaytay]

Kendal-
Yeah, I think that was Todd Markle who did that write up on the reamer. He had an article about it in Red Power magazine too, but the problem is that someone already messed this one up by drilling it over-size for the bolt they used.

 

[mcaruth]

have a question about the pto clutch on the front of my 105...when I shut the engine down the clutch spins on its own for awhile, then slows to a stop. don't know much about these clutch's, but what is suppose to hold the clutch in the cup and keep it from free wheeling? not using the clutch at present, but was planning to soon. Am wondering if there is a pin broke? thanks for any help on this matter...mike

 

[bbrigham]

Michael, push your pto lever forward to engage it. When I don't have a belt on it I always keep mine engaged, keeps unnecessary wear down.

Art...I will second your vote.

Think I will use that fix on my 73, that's the only play in my steering...I'm surprised
Don't have a chop saw yet but I know where a band saw sets

 

[dclinansmith]

Art, I just finished the steering repair you mentioned on my 147. I used a #6 tapered reamer and made my own taper pin to fit. When I got the taper pin the right size I put a 5/16-24 thread on the small end. The thread allows you to pull the pin TIGHT, it would still rock a little even on the tight pin. I went under the arm and put a 10-32 threaded hole at the very bottom of the collar. Before I ran the jam screw in I put a tiny piece of brass in the hole so the screw wouldn't damage the spindle. I have only driven the tractor once but so far so good.

 

[kwarren]

Just getting back to restoring my 147. While glass beading parts and bolts I noticed that not all the bolts had IH on the head. I thought I read someplace that IH was on all bolt heads. Trying to stay original, is there any truth to this. Thanks

 

[jsdavis]

Kevin
I have two 123's and a 70 and I found that not all bolts have the IH stamped on them.Seems all visual ones do but the "hidden" ones dont,Could be wrong.

 

[ljerickson]

"I may take the lazy way out and see if I can clamp the arm into my chop saw and then slowly drop the blade into it."

Well that's one way, but 20 minutes with a hacksaw gives you some important time to to think about things. Makes all thew difference for mr.

Lee

 

[mgonitzke]

Jason/Kevin-

They should all have 'IH' or 'WP' stamped on them, depending on the year of the tractor. The 147 should have 'WP' bolts, but most likely a few 'IH' ones as well, IIRC. If they don't, someone changed them. The bolts on the engine won't have them because the engine came from Kohler.

 

[theaton]

Kevin W., welcome to the forum! I am no cub expert, but I have only seen the IH logo on the rear wheel lug bolts. Most other bolts used on cubs are marked WP. Hope this helps...