Archive through January 16, 2009

[kide]

Earl LaMott asked about the timing marks on a K301 a couple of days ago and I remember posting a couple of pics a few years ago, but can't remember when and don't have access to all of my pics right now, but anyway.... The timing marks are viewed through the hole on the blower housing on the right side of the motor..

The mark is a groove across the edge of the flywheel and is usually barely visible. I started the motor and carefully dragged an old screwdriver on the edge of the flywheel cleaning the rust off until the mark was visible and then marked it with yellow paint.. (it <u>is</u> there...). Make sure you are holding the timing light level and viewing straight in , not on an angle.. It's really nasty trying to do this, trying to sight behind the S/G, down on your hands and knees....

 

[kpecor]

Paul,
I just bought a 104 about a month ago, very nice shape right down to the original seat. I put my snow thrower on it. I was throwing snow when all of a sudden a "banging " noise from under the hood, I turned the machine off and pushed it in the garage. I bent the 3 pin plate and sheered 2 of the three pins and took chunks out of the drive disk...

So I have a local guy who has parts, he sent me an entire cluch assembly and I installed the clutch plates, clutch disk and new teaser spring, however when everything was put back together the pins are not sticking through the disc plate holes like in the picture...

When I started the cub it made the same noise and sparks were flying...aparently I broke the Drive Cup Grass Screen as well and that was just spinning around causing all kinds of noise, so I am trying to figure out what I need to adjust to so the OEM pins are sticking through the plate as I don't want to break another clutch assembly... I hope this helps and thanks for any info...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kevin, so it looked something like this?

The above photo is of the clutch that was in Scott Croonquist's custom Cub. I believe it was undergoing stress testing....

 

[kpecor]

exactly...What is the cause for this happening? Because I am still not sure why it happened, please don't tell me there is something much more seriously wrong with that thing... YIKES!!!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kevin, I have no idea why your's failed. Scott's 4x4 articulated custom is driving two transmissions so it's under more stress.

 

[smitchell]

i just got my 126 all rewired an it starts up an runs again i'm gonna put the blower on it tomarrow an hope we get some snow sunday

 

[kpecor]

I see, when and if I find out why I will let you know, maybe this will start to happen to more and more as the metals are getting older and older... or maybe it is an adjustment issue, hopefully I can figure it out...Thx again "STAY WARM...LOL"

 

[towens]

Lonny Buttke (Lbuttke) What Size were the ag's on your 102 my 15"s are 215/75R15. I haven't had time to see if they will fit or not.

 

[jbliler]

Kraig, I did that to a 100 many years ago with the tiller on. I "thought" it was the hard ground the tiller was working on. Poor tiller was doing a lot of bouncing. Actually tore two of the three collars out of the drive disc. Still have that old disc. Welded the collars back in place and put in new pins as they had a lot of wear. saving it for a spare. You can get away with drilling the fibre disc to get a new set of snug holes. I do think that the metal centered disc is a great improvment over the first all fibre ones.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Matt S. Ask about serial number. Seeing the other Cub makes me think that the owner doesn't want to mess with it. Check it over really good, Water in tranny from years of sitting out, what is missing, etc. See if he used it as a donor tractor for another Original. Offer him $50.00 (Just my thoughts.)

 

[jsdavis]

Ron,
The 70 is not an early model!!By the ser. number,(124903),Its actualy a later model of the 70 line!!July/August 1965.
Later tonight Im gonna do a search of all the cub related implements and see if it shows up.Im not going to throw them away but Im not going to put them back on.
Thanks guys

 

[lbuttke]

Cory O.

The rear ags are American Farmer 7.60-15,
Purchased them from Miller Tire,
mounted on mini spare rims from a Pontiac van

 

[elamott]

Ken;
Thanks for the info on the timing mark. If it warms up a little this weekend I will look again. I did not drag a screw driver over the flywheel, so I will try that.
elamott

 

[nhasson]

Hey Steve, I'm east of you 150 miles or so, and if you want more snow to try your blower out, you can have all of ours and the below 0 temps that came with it. I sure did have a blast with the 149 but blowing snow below zero just isn't all that much fun. Nick

 

[smitchell]

we had -10 lastnight before i whent to bed its no fun rewiring a tractor in the cold either i have a barn i work in but no heat i got it done thoe had to hook jumper cabels to the battery to start it i have to hook the blower on it today but it will be in the grage thank god i will have heat then

 

[dfrisk]

JERRY B. - Years ago on My 72 I went as far as to make rubber bushings for those three pins on the clutch driver to try to get more life out of the fiber disc with worn holes. BAD Idea... That held the disc too tight against the steel clutch discs and THAT caused Me to design & build a countershaft brake for the driveshaft. I tried drilling three new holes eventually...then about 20 yrs ago replaced the disc with the new style with the friction mat'l bonded to the thin steel plate. MUCH better.
Even blowing snow without a creeper, plowing, and ALL kinds of other abuse those friction discs wear VERY little.

KEVIN P. I've never seen a clutch driver bend like that one Kraig posted the pic of. I'd look the whole assembly over closely to see if anything is able to hit the pins the friction disc slide on, like maybe the end of the clutch adjusting rod. Age of metal or fatigue wouldn't cause anything like that. Pullers use those same parts on trsctors with 2-3 times as much HP all going thru that clutch. Something isn't right that's tearing those plates up.

 

[mstetar]

my clutch on my 100 is just like that pic, one pin is bent in the plate, another cracked!, im gonna bend em back and weld the cracked plate.

 

[jbliler]

Dennis, I still have to think that the design team didn't think about 40+ years later. Really there isn't good money in that thought line. The money is in selling NEW tractors. Big or small it keeps the assembly lines running. They really did do well with the cub cadet line.
Do you think there is a tie between shock load to those pins? It seems to be the loose point between tranny and engine. A bounce in wheel travel has to come right to those pins.
Matt, just go easy on the weld metal. Hard to re-balance the plate. I put weld on all three trying to hold some kind of balance.

 

[sstanton]

So I am going to go look at a snow thrower today, later this afternoon possibly. All the ad said is its a 42" for an older cub. What should I look for and where do I find the model number for it? I dont really "need" it but it would be nice to have. Perhaps a rebuild and sell kinda thing but I'm not sure right at the moment. Thanks ahead of time.

 

[aaytay]

The previous owner of my 100 decided it would be a good idea to drill out the left front spindle and replace the spirol pin with a bolt.

Of course now it's all loose and sloppy.

I was going to weld up the holes and re-drill for a new and correct replacement spirol pin, but that's a lot of drilling to do without a drill press.

I've heard of people slicing the spindle-cap with an angle-grinder like this to allow the bolt to "pinch" the cap onto the spindle. Does this work?

At this point it may be an easier fix if it works....