• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through February 27, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Dave, don't give Art any ideas.
old.gif


Terry, nice drawings/designs!
thumbsup.gif
 
Thanks a million guys. I wasn't sure about the first set of numbers telling me anything. I know now.

Kraig - most grasshoppers....I'm still in first grade.

The guy I traded with had this extra stuff that someone else was suppose to come get for $25 so I just threw in the money and got two good blocks, two good coils, a carb, engine tin and the tranny plus some misc stuff. I traded a rifle (Winchester 30-30) for the 1250 which has a rebuilt engine, side panels, etc. I never used the rifle and bought it years ago for very little from a friend who got it in payment for a loan to his son-in-law (in other words, it wasn't "hot").

Here it is, dirt and all...

186173.jpg


I guess this is one of those "look what follwed me home" deals.
 
TERRY R. - I'd try making the rear blade angle 15, 30, and, 45 degrees each way. Depending on what type of material your working with stuff won't hardly roll off the end of a blade at 30 degrees. Even 20 & 40 degrees would work.
 
Dennis,
I probably can add 15 and 45 - though I would have to widen the one plate. But, it is still in the concept phase, so changes are expected at this stage as I am open for all suggestions and advice. Good advice.
 
TERRY - Also, most rear blades are "reversable", for blading while backing up.
 
Terry R. I'm not an engineer by any standard, but, with the force a Cub can apply to any attachment, I would want the biggest locking pin I could design. I think also the further from the pivot pin that the lock pin is located would lessen the stress on the lock. <font size="-2">(like I said I'm not an engineer, but I did sleep at a Motel 6 last nite)</font>
icon_eek.gif
 
ALLEN - Good point, The pivot pin (bolt) on my 40" wide belly blade is a 1" dia grd 5 bolt. Plenty strong there. The pivot lock bolt is a 3/8" grd 5 and is about 6 inches from the pivot bolt. I did use a 5/16" grd 5 lock bolt but it broke!

The advantage I have with the belly blade is I can stand on it while grading, takes weight off the drive wheels but REALLY makes the blade cut!
 
i am trying to sell a k-161 to a guy for a 70, the motor has the rectangle oil pan from an original on it, will the square oil pan bolt right up?
 
Right now the pivot pin is 1 inch diameter.

On the reversible option - it's in the back of mind now - I will probably go ahead and incorporate that in the next stage of the conceptual design. I would like to find a front blade and modify it, so having it reversible would be wise.
 
hey guys i have a serious problem on my hands with the cub 71,,,,,,the standard rebuild kit for a k-161 is measured at 2.9 something,,,,well my engine cylinder measures at about 2.875,,,,,if any of you guys have any information about this special thing please let me know asap,,,,,also the engine was never torn down, and it had a stock steel govenor gear,,,,,is this normal?,,,,,charlie anybody please help,,,,,,,
 

Latest posts

Back
Top