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Archive through May 09, 2010
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
GARY - Gerry is correct. The ST-745 bearing is pretty expensive, but the housing that holds it is even MORE expensive. I did that repair a couple weeks ago on a 50C deck on my 982, same parts fit your 44A. New housing top & bottom, bearing & spindle shaft was $170 including sales tax. OUCH!
Kendell is correct, there's things you can do to hold the bearing in the housing better. I tried "deforming" the old housing, making it square instead of round and I think it will work if I have another bad or worn housing. I tried shimming the bad housing last year with brass shim stock and it only lasted maybe ten hours of mowing time, then started scalping real bad.
With normal greasing the bearings actually last a long time, I had a 44A similar to your deck for fifteen years and it was my main mowing tractor, the blades and spindle bearings never needed replacing or servicing. You very well may be able to find a used 44 or 50 deck with servicable bearings/spindles. The whole spindle is only held in with three bolts, takes about five minutes to remove the deck, remove the belt cover, and remove a spindle with common hand tools.
The 44 & 50 decks are a nice mowing deck, but when the spindle bearings get worn, the blade sits crooked and tends to scalp.
Kendell is correct, there's things you can do to hold the bearing in the housing better. I tried "deforming" the old housing, making it square instead of round and I think it will work if I have another bad or worn housing. I tried shimming the bad housing last year with brass shim stock and it only lasted maybe ten hours of mowing time, then started scalping real bad.
With normal greasing the bearings actually last a long time, I had a 44A similar to your deck for fifteen years and it was my main mowing tractor, the blades and spindle bearings never needed replacing or servicing. You very well may be able to find a used 44 or 50 deck with servicable bearings/spindles. The whole spindle is only held in with three bolts, takes about five minutes to remove the deck, remove the belt cover, and remove a spindle with common hand tools.
The 44 & 50 decks are a nice mowing deck, but when the spindle bearings get worn, the blade sits crooked and tends to scalp.
Hi,
Has anyone used the dash decals that are sometimes available on Ebay? I am curious as to how well that holds up to use and weather. I just can't see that as something that really can withstand use on a working tractor.
Thanks,
Randy
Has anyone used the dash decals that are sometimes available on Ebay? I am curious as to how well that holds up to use and weather. I just can't see that as something that really can withstand use on a working tractor.
Thanks,
Randy
Hi guys.I need to know what is the correct way to measure a mower deck for its size and what is the correct belt length for the drive from crank pulley to deck.I have a 1200 cub and a 3 blade deck.Thanks very much for your time on this question.
kide
Well-known member
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- Gerry Ide
My method would be to flip the deck upside down and measure from tip of the left blade with it turned parallel to the back edge of the deck to the tip of the right blade turned the same way. This is the mowing swath, which is what the deck number is based on (not width of the housing)..There's a pretty comprehensive belt chart in the Charlie's Cubfaqs
keith Warwick (Kwarwick)
I would answer your question if I could, but you only have to look down on this same page for the answer you ask for.
Ryan D Wilke (Rwilke) on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 05:13 pm:
Good luck and please read the faq when you have some time. Lots of good info in there.
I would answer your question if I could, but you only have to look down on this same page for the answer you ask for.
Ryan D Wilke (Rwilke) on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 05:13 pm:
Good luck and please read the faq when you have some time. Lots of good info in there.
Kraig - I've not got time to fool with your shenanigans ... I got the 127 running and it even mowed a strip alongside the garage.
The trouble I've had with it for years is that I have to crank it for 5 minutes letting it "wind up" before it'll start.
Anybody got any ideas ?
I re-ringed it and lapped the valves back around '99 but it didn't help it.
Now I've got to go get the ratz nest out of the dash tower I spotted when I changed the battery.
oh and it's got one of those crappy Carter carbs
The trouble I've had with it for years is that I have to crank it for 5 minutes letting it "wind up" before it'll start.
Anybody got any ideas ?
I re-ringed it and lapped the valves back around '99 but it didn't help it.
Now I've got to go get the ratz nest out of the dash tower I spotted when I changed the battery.
oh and it's got one of those crappy Carter carbs
