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Archive through May 09, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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(Just a message so Charlie doesn't "poof" me.)

Hi All! Today I got my 122 running for the first time since I tore it down last winter. What a great feeling to hear it come back to life! I hauled a bunch of water to all the trees for the shakedown cruise. It ran pretty good.

Sorry I don't post much, but I read a lot here! Thanks for the entertainment fellas!

Jim in Lafayette, CO
 
Charlie when you start talking about poofing members we all get as nervouse as a cat in a room full of rocking chairs (grampas favorite saying)
Here is a picture of a 129 I rescued and tore down for inspection/repair and now reasembling and I did remove balance gears
190013.jpg

on a side note I need some help in off topic tractors
 
Ryan W.

Thanks for the info... I will double check in the morning. I dont remember seeing an ID tag on it so I will check the deck measurements and such with your numbers .... It may very well be a 42. Just rough guessing based on your numbers. Thanks alot.

On another note I used to come in here alot a few years ago. Got into a few heated discussions over the use of Hy Tran vs. HTB Quiklift.... lol....Im still using Quiklift and refuse the use of the red stuff. I had actually tarped three of my cubs (life takes a turn etc...) Decided enough was enough and back playing with em again... something I have missed the last few years.
 
Any good ideas on removing the tiny screws in the carb butterfly The threads are staked for non-removal. Also is there a listing for the screw size? Time for carb shaft rebuild!
 
Hey everyone. I have a 100 with the large battery box. Does anyone no if IH made a different hold down bracket and bolts for this other than the standard ones? The bolts are too short to reach the bracket and the bracket is too short with a large battery in it. PO has the battery rubber bungee corded in. I would like to mount it correctly. Another question. Any idea when Kohler stopped sellin complete repacement K241 engines? I know the K301 was available up to a few years ago. Thanks.
 
Hey Jerry, I believe those screw are 3-48. I had to replace mine because the heads broke off when I tried to remove them. I carefully drilled them out with a very small bit. I managed to save the throttle shaft.
 
KENtuckeyKEN:
{Frank W was brave enough to stop once ... once !} Ken that was the only time I Have been through there. That will be ten years this coming summer. If I ever come back that way I will stop again
We Enjoyed the visit.

About the external Brake mount.
I removed them when I repainted the 1200. I did not mark where they should go back. I need to know the distance from the outer edge of the brake mount to the inter edge of the brake disk. If it is off I think it would cause the brake pads to unevenly wear out
 
Frank; I installed the brake Mounts, brakes, just finger tight. I applied the brakes lightly to line everything up then tightened the mount bolts in place. That was on my 128 and the brakes work good.
 
Jerry,

I can't recall if those tiny brass screws are in the carb rebuild kit, but if they're not, you can find them at a hobby shop. Apparantly they are used in model trains.
 
Good morning. I am finishing up a complete teardown and rebuild on a 149. They do look nice with fresh paint. I need a little help with wiring. I have the diagrams and seen the ones on the FAQ. Was there a diagram in color that a member made up? I'd love to see it again. Was there ever one that showed what guage the wires should be?
 
DAVE R. - Like Gerry said, without an "Accelerator pump" carbs have a hard time going from slow idle to high RPM or full load. Whether a carb is run with a governor or not really doesn't make that much difference. I know some of the governors on Ford truck engines were pretty complex. Truck governors are much different than tractor or industrial engines, they just restrict max. RPM, they do not maintain a set RPM.

I was never much of a fan of just shooting a stream of raw gas down the intake tracts of engines like accelerator pumps do. But it works.

The article in Cycle Mag. I mentioned by Gordon Jennings explained how each adjustment of the different metering systems on the Mukuni works. As Gerry, said, the slide type carb also used metering needles & jets, the idea was to try to keep air velocity up as fast as possible over the air bleeds in the carb body. The needles & jets, cut-away on the front side of the throttle slide, and if I remember correctly the adjustment screws for idle & high end controlled air and not fuel.

They're not impossible to put a governor on, just not easy.

To keep this On topic, I did the 5-minute welding job on the 38" deck for the 72 yesterday & installed the deck. The 72 did NOT want to start as quickly as I thought it should after sitting since Nov. 8th, SIX months! It didn't fire & run until the THIRD revolution. Normally fires on the second. Guess I better plan on a tune-up.

Couple weeks ago we discussed different ways to "sharpen mower blades". Steve B suggested using a BELT SANDER. I tried it....did work good. Much easier to keep the cutting edge Straight! THANKS for the tip Steve!
 
Putting back a 1450 and getting ready to mow as soon as the temp gets above 40 degrees and the grass isn't so wet. Went to reinstall the drive belt and it turns out one of the mowing deck spindles is bouncing all over the place. Went to check prices and new ones are out of my budget until later this summer. There are used ones out there but they are all over the place as the deck models and sizes are different. I have a 44A deck. The spindle number is IH-ST745. Does this spindle fit other decks? Which ones? There does not appear to be number on the spindle. Can I cut grass with a bad spindle without screwing up other stuff? As for the replacement as long as I get a correct spindle, with no play and pack it well any harm?
 
Kraig, im guessing that something someone made up?...In any case..<font size="+1">its sweet!</font>
 
Gary:
Not sure if you've actually pulled the spindle - a common problem is the "cup" that holds the spindle get wallowed out, allowing the entire spindle to move. I've fixed a couple of 'em with some bead from a MIG welder in the bottom of the cup.... You can check the parts lookup for interchangeability of the spindles.
thumbsup.gif
 
Kraig - that needed an old Wico magneto on it to replace the coil hanging out there
clappy.gif
 
That steel wheel Cub was at Plow Day 4 at Blunier's. There was another one there, owned by Steve Urschel but I only got this photo of it:

190067.jpg
 

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