i have a deck for the "green thing", but its only a 38". i bought the cub cadet with the intention of have a nicer hydrostatic machine with a larger deck to mow my 2 acres with. 2 acres is allot of grass to mow with a 38" deck. maybe i will post some pics of the deck soon.
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Archive through December 14, 2010
- Thread starter rmcshane
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Andrew-
The 38" stamped-end deck, introduced in about 1967? was used basically unchanged until the end of the cyclops series in the mid 1990s. That's almost 30 years. The 44" and 50" decks that came out in late '73 or early '74 were also used into the early 90s as far as I can tell. That's about 20 years. The spindles on decks as new as the early 2000s, in some cases, are usable on just about all the IH and CCC decks except the Original's timed deck and the CI ended decks.
It's really amazing that some of those basic deck designs lasted as long as they did in spite of the ever- tightening safety regulations. We don't know how good we have it...
The 38" stamped-end deck, introduced in about 1967? was used basically unchanged until the end of the cyclops series in the mid 1990s. That's almost 30 years. The 44" and 50" decks that came out in late '73 or early '74 were also used into the early 90s as far as I can tell. That's about 20 years. The spindles on decks as new as the early 2000s, in some cases, are usable on just about all the IH and CCC decks except the Original's timed deck and the CI ended decks.
It's really amazing that some of those basic deck designs lasted as long as they did in spite of the ever- tightening safety regulations. We don't know how good we have it...
ANDREW - MATT is exactly correct, IH used the same decks for a lot of years, and MTD kept using them. Mostly because IH had such a quick & easy method of attaching them to the tractor.
IMHO, the Simplicity decks mow better, but I suspect it would take a lot of work to get one workng under a CC. The design of the CC rearend takes a large amount of room away from where the deck would live. I think the later 44" & 50" decks mow better than earlier decks. And replacement deck skins were still avail. for them just a few yrs ago.
A lot of us here take things like rusted deck housings for granted. We have welders & equipment to patch them up and keep them running. That's the way My DAD farmed for forty years, patching up old worn out equipment and building/modifying new equipment to work better. The hard part comes when we have to buy replacement parts like bearings, shafts, & spindle housings. Last sprint I spent $170 to replace ONE worn spindle on my 50" deck on my 982. I needed the sealed unit bearing & shaft and BOTH parts to the bearing housing, even got a new woodruff key for the drive pulley. Can you say "OUCH!"?
IMHO, the Simplicity decks mow better, but I suspect it would take a lot of work to get one workng under a CC. The design of the CC rearend takes a large amount of room away from where the deck would live. I think the later 44" & 50" decks mow better than earlier decks. And replacement deck skins were still avail. for them just a few yrs ago.
A lot of us here take things like rusted deck housings for granted. We have welders & equipment to patch them up and keep them running. That's the way My DAD farmed for forty years, patching up old worn out equipment and building/modifying new equipment to work better. The hard part comes when we have to buy replacement parts like bearings, shafts, & spindle housings. Last sprint I spent $170 to replace ONE worn spindle on my 50" deck on my 982. I needed the sealed unit bearing & shaft and BOTH parts to the bearing housing, even got a new woodruff key for the drive pulley. Can you say "OUCH!"?
maybe i can see if my stepfather would help me. he has a 220 welder and is pretty good working with metal. unfortantly he is a poop and doesnt like gettting involved in a lowely "lawnmower". im going to see if i can get him over the house over the weekend to get his opinion. maybe i could convince him that i need his help. he welded a new floor pan into his 84 camaro, maybe he could do good with this deck.
the deck really isnt in horrible condition(i have seen worse), it just has a few holes and has already had a patch done to it in one spot. what im afraid of is spending allot of time on it and having it rust out in other areas. with proper care, can i prevent it from getting worse? also what products work the best to treat it so it wont rust further. if i spend time and money fixing it, i will care for it properly but i dont want to be fixing it again and again.
maybe fixing it is the more economical answer, but i want to do it right
where do i get new baffles? what happens to mowing performance if i dont have them?
the deck really isnt in horrible condition(i have seen worse), it just has a few holes and has already had a patch done to it in one spot. what im afraid of is spending allot of time on it and having it rust out in other areas. with proper care, can i prevent it from getting worse? also what products work the best to treat it so it wont rust further. if i spend time and money fixing it, i will care for it properly but i dont want to be fixing it again and again.
maybe fixing it is the more economical answer, but i want to do it right
where do i get new baffles? what happens to mowing performance if i dont have them?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Andrew-
It'll mow like crap without the baffles. They're just 0.090" x 2" or so steel pieces that are curved and welded in place. They're easy to make with minimal tools and can be welded in when the deck is patched up.
They rust out because people mow wet grass and never clean the bottom of the deck, or they clean the deck with water. If you mow dry grass and scrape off the buildup, it will last a long time. The 48" decks are built of pretty heavy-gauge steel.
If I junked every deck I had that needed patching instead of fixing them, I probably wouldn't have any mower decks. Most every deck I have that I use either needs some work or has needed a bunch of work to get it to where it needs to be.
It'll mow like crap without the baffles. They're just 0.090" x 2" or so steel pieces that are curved and welded in place. They're easy to make with minimal tools and can be welded in when the deck is patched up.
They rust out because people mow wet grass and never clean the bottom of the deck, or they clean the deck with water. If you mow dry grass and scrape off the buildup, it will last a long time. The 48" decks are built of pretty heavy-gauge steel.
If I junked every deck I had that needed patching instead of fixing them, I probably wouldn't have any mower decks. Most every deck I have that I use either needs some work or has needed a bunch of work to get it to where it needs to be.
Andrew, the deck in the foreground in the photo below is a 48" deck, notice the baffles.
Just some added info. This is the 2nd version of 48" deck, the 48" deck you have may be the 3rd version with out the rear gauge wheels and with flat or half round runners instead of the round runners.
Just some added info. This is the 2nd version of 48" deck, the 48" deck you have may be the 3rd version with out the rear gauge wheels and with flat or half round runners instead of the round runners.
First version 48" deck.
Second version 48" deck.
Third version 48" deck.
MATT is Correct... The baffles are easy to make with just common hand tools & a vice. I made the ones for my 38" deck from 11 ga? steel, about .110-120" thk and about 2-1/2" to 3" tall, welded onto the underside of the deck. I even ARC welded them, the deck was original to the tractor, '68 vintage and I did the rebuild in about '85-'86 when I got my first AC arc welder. It was already fairly well beat up but not rusted and I fixed it up, made a few modifications and it's mowed great since.
No holes rusted in that deck either, always tried to mow DRY grass and keep the accumulated grass scraped away. It doesn't see a garden hose or pressure washer EVER, just compressed air to blow away dust.
The newer 44" & 50" decks are made from thinner steel, they tend to crack where the rear gauge wheel brackets weld on, and rust is more of an issue with them.
What I always did with my welding projects before I had a welder of my own was get ALL the parts made and fit up to suit me, then haul them off to Dad's shop and he could weld them together in maybe an hour tops! And we did some pretty big jobs that way.
No holes rusted in that deck either, always tried to mow DRY grass and keep the accumulated grass scraped away. It doesn't see a garden hose or pressure washer EVER, just compressed air to blow away dust.
The newer 44" & 50" decks are made from thinner steel, they tend to crack where the rear gauge wheel brackets weld on, and rust is more of an issue with them.
What I always did with my welding projects before I had a welder of my own was get ALL the parts made and fit up to suit me, then haul them off to Dad's shop and he could weld them together in maybe an hour tops! And we did some pretty big jobs that way.
Well I am almost ready for old man winter. I wasn't able to finish painting my 149 but I have it back together for winter. I still need to paint the hood and rear fenders and put the new decals on. The nose piece and grill are complete, just need to get my headlights wired and working (and new bulbs put in). The guy who I bought this tractor off of didn't have anything hooked up. Actually he didn't even have the headlights or headlight assembly installed. It was scattered in a box and I had to piece it together. Is there a wiring diagram somewhere for the headlights? I haven't looked too hard yet but if someone knows of one on this site or elsewhere let me know. My rode for the snow plow is for a narrow frame and is a little too long so I used a change temporarily until I can find a shorter rod.
On another note, I have a 127 that I bought for $50 a month or so ago that doesn't run. I think the connecting rod is broke. Anyway, there is a local man who is willing to trade me a nice QA-42A snowthrower for my 127. I will have to give him $50 as well. He is selling the snowthrower for $300 so he is basically giving me $250 for mine plus I am giving him $50. Is that a good deal??
Thanks!
JB
On another note, I have a 127 that I bought for $50 a month or so ago that doesn't run. I think the connecting rod is broke. Anyway, there is a local man who is willing to trade me a nice QA-42A snowthrower for my 127. I will have to give him $50 as well. He is selling the snowthrower for $300 so he is basically giving me $250 for mine plus I am giving him $50. Is that a good deal??
Thanks!
JB
T-Mo
Well-known member
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- Terry Reed
Andrew,
If you were closer I could find you several decks for around $100 or less easily. I have two now for $75 that I want to sell. Unfortunately for you, they're the pin on decks for the 1x2/1x3 series. I have about 3 quick attach decks for my 104s that I'm not using, but they're rusted pretty bad, but usable. Still too far away to help you.
If you were closer I could find you several decks for around $100 or less easily. I have two now for $75 that I want to sell. Unfortunately for you, they're the pin on decks for the 1x2/1x3 series. I have about 3 quick attach decks for my 104s that I'm not using, but they're rusted pretty bad, but usable. Still too far away to help you.
