Archive through December 13, 2007

[wcompton]

I started the slow process of assembling the valvetrain in my kohler tonight. I started by prepping the valves by cleaning up the underside of the valves and giving a slight radius to the sharp edges.

The next couple of pictures are of the valve seat partially lapped, and another shot looking up through the port. I didn't get really crazy about porting, mainly just smoothing out the port and filling in the pits left by the casting process.

Governor and tappets were installed.

And end play was checked with a .005 shim. I ended up using two .010 shims.

More pictures will come as I progress.

 

[lbuttke]

Todd H

To be honest I have never seen that spacer befor, but than I have never had a 128 clutch apart either.
The spacer looks like it could easly be adapted by useing some washers or possable even a brass sleeve IF the correct thickenss is known.
All though I would find it hard to belive that part could cost a whole lot.

 

[theaton]

Lonny, Maybe some pics tomorrow will shed some light on the subject. I have always been the type of person to "repair or fabricate" before spending $$$, I will trade labor for out of pocket costs anyday. Thanks for your thoughts, I am just tryin to do this overhaul right the first time. By that I mean put this cub together once, I can hope for the best right?

 

[mguenther]

Hi all! I'm feeling that seasonal glow because Christmas came early this year... I went and picked up a 149 fixer yesterday:

I've never worked on anything hydrostatic before so I'm looking forward to the challenge. I'm hoping some of you guys who've been around the block a few times can start me off in the right direction.

Here are the facts, M'am: The PO owns a boat repair business and was using the tractor to tow boats around the yard. (It had an old Sears tiller on the back but he never used it, he just left it there as ballast.) He said that about a year ago, the transmission "just suddenly quit, like the engine wasn't connected through to the wheels anymore". He also said that it had been somewhat jerky before that. He has a business to run so he basically abandoned it. He says the engine was running just fine up until the transmission quit.

From what I've read in the faq and archives, the jerky operation sounds like a trunion problem. So I pulled off the center cover and gave that area very quick check. The linkage is somewhat loose but not terrible, and it operates smoothly. It was too dark at the time to see what kind of shape the trunion springs were in. I did notice, however, that the cooling fan has every single blade broken off. I reckon the hydraulics will have been running a tad hot as a result.

I gather that a good bet for why the transmission would suddenly quit would be a sheared pin either at the rag joint or right aft of the engine. That's the first thing I'll dig into. But another odd thing is that I didn't need to depress the release valves to roll the tractor around. Could it be that someone pressed in the release valves and they stuck down, since they'd been sitting for a year? If it's not that, I'm afraid I may be looking at a serious problem here. Can I tell from looking at them if they're in the up or down position?

Unfortunately, the tractor has to live about 40 minutes drive from my home, for the time being. Saturday morning I'll head out there with a fresh battery, some fresh fuel and a can of PB. Whether or not I can get the engine started, is there any other guidance on how I should proceed with the driveline? Is there any danger in trying to start up the engine under these conditions? (I'll check the oil level and throw a tablespoon of oil into the top end before trying.) Main objective is just to run the engine long enough to help diagnose the hydro.

Thanks in advance. I'll post more pictures once I get into it farther. Those of you under a pile of ice, I hope things get back to normal soon for you. Those of you with just the fluffy stuff, I'm a bit envious -- we've only seen a few flakes here in Oregon.

 

[mgonitzke]

Todd H.-

That spacer was used in later gear drive tractors in that series. My '72 128 didn't have one, the 86 doesn't either, but the '74 128 does. It goes between the teaser spring and the rear pressure plate. I think it helps make the teaser spring last longer. Anyway, it's like $6 so you might as well add that in to yours if you're already spending the $125 or so and you've already got it apart. Your wear on the clutch arm is probably improper adjustment.

Mark G.-

You are correct, that sounds like a sheared spirol pin. You can go ahead and start the engine, but remove the frame cover first and make sure that the driveshaft is still connected at both ends so that when you start the engine the driveshaft won't separate from one end and destroy your hydraulic lines. Also check the front driveshaft pin and coupler on the engine. Those tend to break and fall out. If that's intact, check to see if any of the pins at the rear of the driveshaft have fallen out. If you don't see anything obvious, get it running and then see if the output back end of the trans input shaft is rotating while the engine is running. If not, you have a sheared pin on the trans input shaft coupler. You may need to remove the fenders to see the rear of the hydro pump clearly.

If the little buttons on top of the release valves are flush or nearly flush, they're stuck down and that's why it rolls easy. If there are no buttons, then it has auto-release valves. If they are up and it rolls, don't worry too much about it. I've had a few do that and not have any problems. Just don't get carried away and tow it fast or far.

 

[theaton]

Mark, looks like you got a solid 149 there. That front mounted ball hitch would worry me, as to how much of a load did that cub pull regularly. That may be a clue as to why the hydro is not funtioning. I have no experience with hydros either, but I have learned/read/understand that with the engine running the driveshaft should be spinning all the way to the hydro rearend. If the driveshaft spins freely, try checking the fluid level in the hydro/rearend, standing behind the tractor there is a fluid fill/check plug towards the top of the rearend housing. I am sure you will get some better posts than this, but I had to throw in my 2 cents.

 

[theaton]

Mark, like I said. I'll stick with my gear drive.
Which I still have q's about!!

 

[mguenther]

Matt, Todd

Thanks guys, I'll poke around tomorrow and let you know what I find. Good to know that just 'cause it rolls, it ain't necessarily busted bad.

 

[pkordik]

Hello all. It's been a long time since I have posted here. Not much Cub action lately for me, just normal grass mowing. Tried to buy a model 70 this fall strictly for snow plowing, but no luck. I flinched and lost a shot at the deal. Anyway, to the real reason for my post. I just put one my push blade, chains, wheel weights and helper spring. I am ready for the 5-8" of snow we are supposed to get Saturday. (We won't get it now that I am prepared!) Three questions: 1. I have never lost a tire chain, but is there a correct direction or method to put them on? 2. I let out a little air in my tires as I put my chains on and then refill them, seems to help to put them on and make them tighter. Right, wrong, or in-different? 3. Tire pressures, fronts say up to 28lbs., and I have 20lbs at this moment. Rears say nothing about pressure, and I have them at 10lbs. (They are the original turf tires that came on my 1974 CC 1250. Thanks for your help.

 

[rchristensen]

I knew it was about that time.