• FIRST AND LAST NAMES ARE REQUIRED WHEN REGISTERING
  • This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Hello all, I'm Mark; new to the forum not new to the Cub 2182s (owned 5 have 2 still), have lots of knowledge and always are willing to help others.

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mark Miller

Active member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Nov 12, 2022
Messages
27
Location
Pittsburgh Pa.
Hello everyone first let me say I love the Cub 2182s and ever since my first one I've improved on the many weak points of these tractors and as a result ended up with a pretty reliable tractor of which I can use more than repair. Before I bore anyone with my long winded rhetoric let me say I like to write and are willing to help anyone with whatever knowledge I have on the cubs. I have a pretty good equipped home work shop allowing me to do just about anything in need to do. I have restored, refabricated, rewired, re-equipped, modified these tractors and just about every machine, car boat, truck and tractor I have ever owned since I took my first Aurora race track cars apart to see how they worked when I was about 7 years old. I've owned (5) 2182s and still have (2).. One is a dedicated lawn tractor and the other a dedicated front loader with 3 point, D600 Kubota and lots of mods to make this the greatest little front loader I could ask for for my 1-1/2 acre home and property..After modifying my one 90 Hr 2182 Cub to handle the front loader, 13 years later and around 1400 hrs pushing it too hard I broke a tooth off the ring gear and of course damaged the pinion on it. Even though I am capable of rebuilding it as there are lots of good used parts of which carry the same part numbers I find the same were used by Cub in many other tractors it leads be to believe If I could just swap out this adapter housing and differential housing for another good donor which spent its entire happy life just cutting grass instead of what mine has been through and believe me I never knew how strong these were as I have put it through everything without a issue till yesterday..Sooo what other units out there SGTs or not have a direct bolt on combination? I believe all the SGT Cyclops line should work but I'm lacking in knowledge here and need help on this area..
 
Also my name; Mark and I wanted to say I am open to whatever questions anyone else has on these tractors if I can help..Also I will post photos of my (2) 2182s when I can dig up some of the ones showing some of the mods I have done...Thank you sincerely all for any help...
 
What is not to like about the Super Cyclops? I view them as the last and maybe the best Cubs. It took me a while to find one that wasn't 300+ miles away. (2082)

My Cubs are in semi retirement, don't want to have to do major repairs on them due to heavy use. I've got other stuff for that.
 
Great to have you here Mark! I love my IH 82's but the SGT Cyclops are incredible. I picked-up a low hour 2182 last spring and the quality blew me away. I have not had the rear end cover off yet and also am interested in learning more about what's inside. Putting 75lb weights on this week to get ready for snow so want to make sure gears are all good. I will keep my eyes open for an SGT parts tractor, see them occasionally in Cubsylvania.
 
What is not to like about the Super Cyclops? I view them as the last and maybe the best Cubs. It took me a while to find one that wasn't 300+ miles away. (2082)

My Cubs are in semi retirement, don't want to have to do major repairs on them due to heavy use. I've got other stuff for that.
I hear you, plus they are a pain to repair as everything is shoe horned in there. I use mine regularly and love them they just keep going if you don't abuse them which I have done.
 
Great to have you here Mark! I love my IH 82's but the SGT Cyclops are incredible. I picked-up a low hour 2182 last spring and the quality blew me away. I have not had the rear end cover off yet and also am interested in learning more about what's inside. Putting 75lb weights on this week to get ready for snow so want to make sure gears are all good. I will keep my eyes open for an SGT parts tractor, see them occasionally in Cubsylvania.
Thanks for the welcome..the 2182 gas is the smoothest running engine I have experienced so far along with being a gas hog but its my favorite and when you sit on one of these 2182s you know its not a box store Home Depot tractor. The frames are robust and so is the drive train. The belt change sucks as you have to drop the drive shaft to do it. Not a fiasco but they don't last forever...I find water gets in the hydro eventually somehow and you'll need to change it when it gets milky or the pump could get damaged..I read a thread years ago many were inquiring on what hydro fluid to use and a lot wanted to and recommended to go with the "Cub" stuff at $8 a pint or something crazy like that but I looked up the manufacturer of the hydro and they recommended 30w motor oil..lol...I find a ISO 100 or 46 works great and more stable than the 30w motor oil... I bought a 1/4" thick cover to replace the sheet metal one from Extreme Motor Works with a sight glass in it and magnetic plug; great item to use too. You won't have any issues with only 150lbs on the rear axles. consider filling the tires with fluid as it adds weight without a strain on the bearings. My experience is this differential will take a lot and is not one of there weak points..Have fun...
 
I get Hytran for around $3.50 a pint. The 30W oil will work, but it will not keep the moisture from settling at the bottom of the unit, so it's not being constantly circulated in the system. These properties are proprietary to the Hytran formula, and one reason the cost is up there.
 
I get Hytran for around $3.50 a pint. The 30W oil will work, but it will not keep the moisture from settling at the bottom of the unit, so it's not being constantly circulated in the system. These properties are proprietary to the Hytran formula, and one reason the cost is up there.
Agreed...I actually tried the 30w motor oil and found the drive to be unstable in terms of maintaining a constant speed; it jumped up and down and I constantly had to control the drive to maintain a steady speed. A good iso46 hydro fluid worked good and stability returned also tried a good iso100 which seamed better which I believe is the viscosity of 30w.....either way I change it out enough as I cannot keep it from getting some moisture in it which is minimal even though it stays in the garage out of the weather....Can't figure out how to keep it out....
 
Agreed...I actually tried the 30w motor oil and found the drive to be unstable in terms of maintaining a constant speed; it jumped up and down and I constantly had to control the drive to maintain a steady speed. A good iso46 hydro fluid worked good and stability returned also tried a good iso100 which seamed better which I believe is the viscosity of 30w.....either way I change it out enough as I cannot keep it from getting some moisture in it which is minimal even though it stays in the garage out of the weather....Can't figure out how to keep it out....
Use Hytran.

It will turn into goo that will harmlessly stick to the inside of the transaxle instead of being continuously circulated through the hydro unit. Also, FWIW, HyTran, the manufacturer recommended fluid, is thinner than SAE 30 oil...
 
Use Hytran.

It will turn into goo that will harmlessly stick to the inside of the transaxle instead of being continuously circulated through the hydro unit. Also, FWIW, HyTran, the manufacturer recommended fluid, is thinner than SAE 30 oil...
Thank you..Thank you very much...We don't want no stinking "goo in my 2182 which rhymes too"...Hytran it is
 
Welcome to the forum, Mark. Enjoy!
 
This is the oil and hydro recommendation on my Tank SZ;
I had been using 15W Rotella for years...

Engine Oil: Shell Rimula 15W40 or Rotella® T™ Triple Protection® 15W40 recommended.

Hydrostatic Fluid: Castrol™ (Syntec®) Edge™ 5W50 recommended.

Spindle Lubricant: Use only Shell Alvania RL 2 grease. This grease is an amber-colored grease designed for high speed bearing applications. It has a base oil viscosity that reduces running losses, has been formulated for low noise, has excellent corrosion protection, and has excellent bearing lubrication.

General Purpose Lubrication: Use any NLGI grade 2 multi-purpose grease. Shell Albida EP2 is recommended. Shell Albida EP 2 is a red-colored multi-purpose grease designed for heavy-duty bearing applications. It has high base oil viscosity for mechanical stability,
has been formulated for high load, low-speed applications, and has excellent lubrication and corrosion protection
 
Use Hytran.

It will turn into goo that will harmlessly stick to the inside of the transaxle instead of being continuously circulated through the hydro unit. Also, FWIW, HyTran, the manufacturer recommended fluid, is thinner than SAE 30 oil...
I get Hytran for around $3.50 a pint. The 30W oil will work, but it will not keep the moisture from settling at the bottom of the unit, so it's not being constantly circulated in the system. These properties are proprietary to the Hytran formula, and one reason the cost is up there.
So do we want the goo at the bottom? Or not? Yes, I am just trolling! LOL
 

Latest posts

Back
Top