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Archive through December 13, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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All- No I haven't lost my 122, she's taking a long winter nap after a hard working summer. Got no $$$ to buy another blower with a Honda engine. What I have is a Jacobsen with a Techumseh with no spark. Again, Thanks for all your usefull comments. Dave
 
David - Since I don't know your engine I'll say this - if it's a flywheel magneto then the flywheel may have rusted up to keep it from getting a field built up. Had that happen a few times with B&S engines. Also make sure the kill switch (if equipped) isn't ground out with a rub spot on the wire. Condensor could be dead too.
 
Kraig,

Yeppers, that's the old boy in work clothes. Those weights on the back that saddle are 115lbs each and the angle iron on the back with hitch weighs 25lbs. There are wheel spacers that weight about 30lbs each plus the wheel weights I got, so total weight on the back will be 367lbs. I've also thought about filling the rear tubes with washer fluid.

I'd also like to mount that angle iron under the weights to lower the hitch height and that would also turn the angle up so I could hang suitcase weights off the back if I ever find some around here. Really don't think I'd need them though.
 
Craig:

I have to mirror your thoughts. I have read and talked with a few guys, with these Honda "repowers", and I am hearing the same thing.
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Unless the KT-17 really got toasted, they are very rebuildable. BTDT....
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Ken, Arvin- Thanks for the advice, hope its not a sheared pin, that sounds rather involved. I just used this blower about a week and a half ago. Generally ran well, although it conked out once for no apparent reason, figured I just had some crap in the fuel... Dave
 
I used to manage a rental side of an equipment business and I have to agree on the Honda engines. They were very reliable engines but most were very finicky when you started them, even in the summer. Once they warmed up they ran great. We had engines from 3-13 hp on the walk behind equipment and they all acted about the same. The worst ones had the choke as part of the throttle. You pushed the throttle all the way forward to start them, then pull to run when they started to spit out black smoke, and then would quit as soon as you put the equipment in gear or tried to drive them away.
 
Any one have a scarafier to put on a cubby? I have the family coming over for for Christmas and my yard has 2-3" of frozen slush on it. I need to some how get part of it cleaned off so the older folks don't fall and hurt themselves. The bad part is that it has the tracks when my wife and I drove through it when we got home. I had an appointment that night and by the time I got home, it was frozen hard. I am glad they are not talking any large quantities of snow in the next week.
 
At the risk of staying way off topic I'll agree on the Hondas. They're great engines that run strong, but they need ot be run regularly, have fresh fuel, and don't like temps below freezing. In the fire service Honda engines seem to take the place of many worn out B&S engines, but the B&S engines that I've run (like the old Hurst Jaws pumps) never fail to start in any weather and will run on reasonably old fuel. Oddly enough, Kohlers with their rock solid reputation don't seem to be seen anywhere in the fire service except for an occasional generator.
 
hello all,i had a brain wave that this cylinder might be good to use to angle a snow blade on my 149,but i thought i would ask youall before i send for it. thanks Don
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Tom P & Others-It looks like in the picture of your 126 that you blanked off the grill. With my 126/147 and QA snow thrower the engine heat melts the snow and leaves a big slushey mess on the snow thrower that just lays there. I thought about blanking the grill to deflect the engine heat. Does anybody do that for that reason. Is it worth the effort?
 
Can someone tell me what the real difference is between a 919-3027 coupling originally on QL tractors, and a 903-0794 that is used on the 82 series? They look the same, yet the latter costs nearly 3 times as much as the former. Can I use the QL coupling in place of that really expensive one on the 82 series?
 
Charlie you need some lettering on the side of that Cub hauler...or maybe this.
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I bought a 6x12 V-nosed Haulmark about three years back and have hauled all manner of junk with it. Hauled my 129 home, the 782 back and forth between houses I don't even remember how many times. Just delivered an old Toytota F2 motor with it today. Hauled motorcycles from Michigan to Wyoming and back and all over creation around here. They are sure handy.

I also just finished putting a new choke cable on the 782 about fifteen minutes ago. Chewed up both of my hands getting that bugger in and out but it's done. After 26 years, the old one was gettin' so bad it took both hands to pull it out. $20 and an hour later, it's like new. Sure wished they shipped a firewall grommet with the thing though. Mine is long gone and I'd forgotten about it. Oh well. Too late now...
 
Matt I recently asked the same question at another site and was told by a few people that you can use the QL coupling on the 82 series so I ordered one for about the 1/3 the cost.
 
Craig E-
Take a piece of rubber fuel-line about 2-1/2" long, slit it lengthwise and slide it down the choke cable until it becomes a "grommet" through the firewall. Then secure it with a zip-tie around the choke cable at either end of the hose.
 
I am looking at parts to overhaul the clutch assembly on my 128 overhaul. I checked the parts lookup and found that my assembly is missing part #20 described as a spring spacer under the clutch heading. Would this explain the excessive wear to the front of my clutch arm? My cub started life as an 86 model but got an upgrade to a 12 hp. I checked the parts lookup for clutch parts for the 86 and the pic is the same. I hope to take some pics on Sat. to give you guys a better idea of what I am talkin about. Anybody got ideas about this "spacer", I know as a fact that the clutch assembly has never been apart since new.
 

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