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Recommendation for "Good" Fuel Shut Off Valve

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proper

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Oct 9, 2011
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PE ROPER
I'm not having any luck finding a good Fuel Shutoff Valve for my 1650. Attached are the photos of the valves I have purchased off Amazon and Ebay. They were cheaply made products and have cost me a good bit. I only use non-ethanol gas. Priced it lately? I placed a fuel shut off value on the tractor when I was having problems with the carburetor. I replaced the original carburetor and the leak stop, but I still like to shut off the fuel when I'm finished using the tractor, as my garage is my basement. If fuel leaks, the smell of gas fills the air in the basement, then right up through the insulation, sub-floor and flooring and into the house.

Each value formed leaks on the valve themselves. There has to be something better out there. The Cub has a 1/4" fuel line with the original 2 gallon black gas tank.

Thank you.
 

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I'm not having any luck finding a good Fuel Shutoff Valve for my 1650. Attached are the photos of the valves I have purchased off Amazon and Ebay. They were cheaply made products and have cost me a good bit. I only use non-ethanol gas. Priced it lately? I placed a fuel shut off value on the tractor when I was having problems with the carburetor. I replaced the original carburetor and the leak stop, but I still like to shut off the fuel when I'm finished using the tractor, as my garage is my basement. If fuel leaks, the smell of gas fills the air in the basement, then right up through the insulation, sub-floor and flooring and into the house.

Each value formed leaks on the valve themselves. There has to be something better out there. The Cub has a 1/4" fuel line with the original 2 gallon black gas tank.

Thank you.
Shut off valves, and settling bowls too. People make and sell crap these days. $5.13/gal yesterday here in Idaho for non-ethanol gas. :-(
 
Although I do not use these on my Cubs, all of my Tecumseh Snow King engines use a 90 degree shut off valve which seems to be leak free year after year. They are USA made if genuine Tecumseh, and are for 1/4" hose. Part number 35857,.



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They also offer a straight through valve, Made in the USA part number 37147 for 1/4" hose

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The fun thing about that valve is that the needle shuts off the fuel to the carburetor and leaves the fuel in the tank relying on the o-ring on the needle to keep the fuel in the tank. I have sediment bowls the do the same thing.
 
If I needed one for my 1650, I wouldn't hesitate to get this one. It appears to be a ball valve design. I've been down the road with my other equipment needing a valve and as others have said most have me scratching my head on their quality. Good advice on the bushing too.

It's top dollar, but I've learned you usually only have to cry once.
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For $12.14 I would just put back what came on it originally. The extra money saved could be used to pay for the gas you will have to put in it! $$$$$$$$$$$ :yikes: :errrr:
 
Replace the tank bushing as well when you replace that valve Part #4
935-0143

View attachment 149546
dschwandt- I have leaking bushings and would love some advise on how to change them out. I have the tank off the unit-(1991 Cub 1641) any help would be appreciated, thanks Kelly Caudle from Piedmont SC
 

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With a little effort, using a pair of pliers or something to grasp the exposed lip, with a twisting motion they should just pull out.

The new ones should then just push in.
Then the new shut off should just push into the new bushing once it is in place.
 
I had 2 different 1872's (M18) that would do this occasionally.
I added an electric solenoid/shutoff.
I believe I attached it to the firewall and picked up an ignition wire to power when key was on.
I attempted a carb rebuild and when that didn't work took it to the local Cub dealership. They rebuilt the carb and suggested if the problem returns, replacing the carb or adding a shutoff.
 
With a little effort, using a pair of pliers or something to grasp the exposed lip, with a twisting motion they should just pull out.

The new ones should then just push in.
Then the new shut off should just push into the new bushing once it is in place.
Ok, sounds good. I'll order the new bushings- thank you
 
I have a 1650 which has a ball valve type of shut off. It works OK but I have to use a coat hanger with a hook to shut it off and on. Short of removing the side panel every time, I can’t see how any of the shutoffs wouldn’t require removing the side panel as well. Is there some trick I’m missing?
 

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