Hello. I have a 1450 that I picked up in pretty rough shape. It vebrated real bad when I got it and the engine mounting bolts and motor mounts were all lose. I pulled out the engine and tightened everything down and put it back together. It is better but it still shakes. There is no smoke or knocks either. The guy I got it from put a new coil and condenser on recently. I checked the points and they were gapped correctly. Any suggestions or advice what would be causing the vibration would be greatly appreciated.
Archive through August 28, 2008
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avanwettering
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- Andy Van Wettering
Earl, Check the driveshaft couplers and the driveshaft. If any doubt unhook the driveshaft to eliminate that option. If it still does it check to be sure there is no build up of dirt- grass in the flywheel area. After that the PO may have removed the internal balance gears. If it stops when you unhook the driveshaft you should rebuild the driveline, couplers,bushings etc.
Good luck!
Good luck!
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Bill Benham: If I were to have just one Cub, it would be a 149. Many parts are interchangable with the other wideframes (108, 109, 128, 129,169, etc. and readily available from sponsors, other Forum members, even the guy down the street if he knows you're interested). With the standard hydraulics and the attachments available, the possibilities are nearly endless. I hit the "search" above this morning and found over 700 references to "149". Welcome, and "Y'all come back, now, y'heah?".
Oh, and believe the guy that says "My cub loves my wallet"! Then compare what you're putting into a real tractor to what you could spend for a "box store" lawn mower.
Oh, and believe the guy that says "My cub loves my wallet"! Then compare what you're putting into a real tractor to what you could spend for a "box store" lawn mower.
I was wondering if anybody could tell me the best way to deal with rust in a gas tank? It has been sitting for years, and has a good amount of rust in the bottom. Is there something I should put in it to let soak, or what? thanks in advance for your help, mike
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- Allen Schumacher
Michael...on top of the page, under the business cards is 'Freq Asked Quest', click on that. At top of the FAQ page is another ref to a CUBFAQ page, click that, then go down to #85 and dig in !
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Michael C.-
I did that to the tank on a 127 that I believe had been sitting since the late 1980's, and it worked great. I sloshed some 30W motor oil and then some diesel inside to protect it before I reinstalled it on the tractor.
And I'll add to the safety warning, the fumes from this are very very nasty. As a side note, muriatic acid also works great for removing aluminum from crankshaft journals.
I did that to the tank on a 127 that I believe had been sitting since the late 1980's, and it worked great. I sloshed some 30W motor oil and then some diesel inside to protect it before I reinstalled it on the tractor.
And I'll add to the safety warning, the fumes from this are very very nasty. As a side note, muriatic acid also works great for removing aluminum from crankshaft journals.
New cub 149 owner here. Very informative site. I've searched the FAQ's regarding the front PTO. My tractor has the higher serial number and it's missing some clutch parts(brake disc). It did engage and mow when I bought it. Now after putting a new disc, levers, screws, & springs in it--no go.
Do the set screws in clutch pulley housing go INTO the bearing or just in-board of the bearing? These should hold the clutch in place, right? My set screws go to the inboard side and the clutch "floats" on the crank while running.
Are there two different thrust buttons? Also, from the FAQ I read, it said that the starter pulley should be 1 1/4" from end of crank, this makes my belt very out of alignment. Another issue I guess.
Lastly, is it advisable to remove the clutch bearing and do the install exactly like the FAQ's I read or is there a better way?
I apologize for all the rookie questions and look forward to getting my Cub mowing again.
Ian
Do the set screws in clutch pulley housing go INTO the bearing or just in-board of the bearing? These should hold the clutch in place, right? My set screws go to the inboard side and the clutch "floats" on the crank while running.
Are there two different thrust buttons? Also, from the FAQ I read, it said that the starter pulley should be 1 1/4" from end of crank, this makes my belt very out of alignment. Another issue I guess.
Lastly, is it advisable to remove the clutch bearing and do the install exactly like the FAQ's I read or is there a better way?
I apologize for all the rookie questions and look forward to getting my Cub mowing again.
Ian
bbrigham
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- Brendan Brigham
Good timing on the tank cleaning with acid. I have been staring at the doors of my Cozy Cab thinking of how I was going to remove the rust along the bottom. It's actually rusted on the inside where the lip is folded back on itself, no rust through but is forming between the sheet metal. Can't get to it with a sand blaster so maybe the acid will do the trick. Need to take care of it before it does go bad.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Brendan B.-
I hope you can get at it with paint after you're done, as it rusts almost instantly after doing this. You'll start to see rust in less than 5 minutes...have the primer at the ready
I hope you can get at it with paint after you're done, as it rusts almost instantly after doing this. You'll start to see rust in less than 5 minutes...have the primer at the ready
