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Archive through August 11, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Jonathan S.
Head down to your local auto parts store that has a machine shop and have them fix'um for ya.
That would faster and easier on ya.
Mike...I type in Cub Cadet for model since I have an Original...hit search ....then a list of two entries comes up...the second entry is the one I chose...to the right of the second entry it says "Select Assembly" click on that and it lists the categories...i.e.= carburetor, engine..etc.

You can do the same thing by clicking on "Parts by model....choose garden tractor...select the model you have...and the categories will appear so you can see the parts diagram listing the part numbers etc.

If this doesn't help, maybe contact me offline so I can answer your questions better....I'll help any way I can...just let me know.
Rick A., thanks for your help. It is working for me today! Last night I could only get the "original" to come up!?!?! Today it's working like it used to and I can "see" all the different models. Very Strange! I've used it before and hadn't had these issues so I was wondering if something else had changed.

No matter, we got it done and thanks for the help!
Posting this for Paul Roessler. A photo of his shop door:

Mike I put mine on my cub shop outside roll-up door,,also they fade fast if left outside, I had to touch mine up after being outside

I wish it was the real thing that was much larger and heavy steel

Mike F....good news...I found using the word "Original" didn't work for me...the official word for Original is " Cub Cadet"...

Anyway...glad your up and runnin'
Had a non-cub 16 Horse offered to me this weekend. Question - will a Cub K-321 pan fit on a K-341? Also this is an AQS type - are there issues in fitting this in an older (149) wideframe?...
Gerry, I know I put a flat 10hp type oil pan on a non Cub 16hp a few years ago. It was then used in a puller, it worked fine. I had to cut down the oil dip stick and cut down the oil splasher thing... We won a few pulls then sold the puller.

This was the ASQ type, but we did not use any of the charging parts. It was mounted into a 122 that had the frame widened..

I know there are 2 types of 16hp motors, wide base and narrow base. This one I had gotten was a narrow base.
I think I have a bad front bearing in my 8hp Kohler...I'm going to ask...please be kind...can you remove that bearing without disassembling the engine....I think the hard part would be getting the old out....just didn't want to do a tear down if I could avoid it.

Thanks for any help.

Gerry...sorry I don't have much to offer on the big boys....somebody will come thru for you.
Does anybody know what to use get stains out of a Cub 102 rubber seat. The stains are in the rubber. I tried grease lightning but didnt work.
RICK A. - Sorry, you have to pull the crankshaft out of the engine block to remove the bearing on the PTO end of the engine.
Hello everyone. I found a 128 fairly reasonable, I am looking for a 126 but this looks fairly good. I understand the 128 is wide frame, what can anyone tell me about the wide frame vs the narrow as far as functionality. I have a 147, are any parts interchangeable if I get in a tight. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
David B.
I've had good luck with white wall cleaner from the parts store.
I've also used Simple Green. Use an old wash cloth, lay it on the stain and soak the cloth up, cover with a plastic bag and repeat keeping it wet for a couple days.
Denny...thanks...I was sure that was the case but.....I have a rebored ready to go 7hp sitting on the bench...needs valves...I see from the parts diagram the valves are interchangeable...will the length from the 8hp be different...I know you have to grind these small engines valves....just a thought....thanks again!!
Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor)

Will the tire cleaner ruin the rubber on the seat? Not sure if I follow on the simple green method.
RICK - I haven't compared part number by part number, but the only difference between a K161 & K181 was the crankshaft stroke. There were small & large bore K161's, 2-7/8" & 2-15/16" bore, and all K181's are 2-15/16". The K161's were all 2-1/2" stroke and all K181's were 2-3/4" stroke. I suspect they raised the wrist pin hole in the K181's pistons to accomidate the longer stroke, but Kohler may have changed the rod too, shortening the rod 1/8 inch would do the same thing. I've never actually compared the two parts from the two engines to see which Kohler did.

The valves, springs, keepers, carb, etc is ALL the same between the K161 & K181. The cam location is the same on both engines, so the same length valves are used in them both.
Thanks ! I'll be picking it up in the near future. Guy said it runs, but smokes - out of a Ford.. Good omen for a Blue Oval household...
Denny...thanks....you're a walking encyclopedia...

Guess I get to get out my ring compressor. torque wrench...trusty manual...etc..this will be my fourth one...sure is exciting when they crank up for the first time.
I tried to start my 128 up today and the battery was dead. I hooked up the charger and let it charge for about 20 minutes. It started up fine, so I let it run for a while to try to charge the battery. I go out later in the evening to start it and all that happens when I try to start it is I hear a "creaking " noise coming from underneath the dash board. Would this be a switch key problem or a bad solenoid? the starter was barely getting any electricity at all. Any help would be great. Thanks
Gerry...checked your profile pic...how much weight was in that trailer....guess the snow blower/thrower was a good counter weight....