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Archive through August 03, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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James C.-

Yes, but as the 782 hydro is ported, you'll need to cap off the ports and change the implement relief spring as well as a couple of other things.

Brian B.-

For a tiller to work good on a Cub, 12 h.p. is about the minimum for the tiller to work well. I have a 1A with both extensions (38") on my 128 (12h.p., gear drive) and love it. A creeper is required to use a tiller on a gear drive, and a spring assist is necessary on a manual lift tractor. I prefer having my tiller on a gear drive because the tiller doesn't push the tractor as bad as it would a hydro. If he wants a hydro I'd recommend at least 14 h.p. or a very STRONG 12 because of the power being wasted in the hydro. Hydraulic Lift is nice but not necessary. I have no problem lifting mine with a spring assist, and I'm not that strong. I'd recommend a 1x8/9 of at least 12 h.p. or a QL of at least 12 h.p. Nothing wrong with a 782 either if he's got money to burn.

Ben C.-

I don't think a hydro has better control of speed for this application because the tiller is trying to push the tractor. With a gear drive you put it in gear and go and it maintains the speed.
 
Kraig,
You could just loan me your 14hp crank. After all its not the correct one for your 12hp anyways.
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Pertaining to using a tiller on a 12hp Cub. I have been looking around for a tiller for my 1512, and a mechanic around the corner just put a Model 122 with a 1A tiller out in front of his barn for sale. It says he has rebuilt the engine, and the tiller looks like it is in Pretty good shape. I am not familiar with the "original" era tractors (it desparately needs a seat, but the rest of it looks solid). Will that setup work OK, or should I buy the whole setup, and adapt the tiller to my 1512 and sell off the 122 to one of you guys. Hope it's OK that I mixed pre and post 1981 Cubs in the same post. SteveG
 
brian-

one could probably get away with a 12 hp model, but a 14 or 16 or higher would work best, especially if the ground is typically harder/more clay content, etc. as for gear/hydro, that's up to you.
 
Terry, I suppose I could loan it to you, ummm, how long would you be wanting to borrow it? On second thought it does fit nicely in my K301 block.
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Terry, I'm about ready to give away the one I bought new (OUCH). I installed it and I can't seem to keep stuff attached to it. I just got the s/g pulley retightened Wednesday and during today's mowing, the other end came loose. The drive cup has worked loose.

The first problem this year was a broken front axle. Thanks to A fine forum member (You know who you are, Frank.) I finally got that replaced. My 126 has always had the legendary-tight-turn-one way-only steering, so I bought spindles with the axle. Well, they made the tires sit at an angle plus the steering was almost none in one direction, good in the other. Hunnh? Well we can't do that, so it's back with the old. Then the aforementioned crank issues...what's next?
 
(Laughing), guys I really can not argue gear VS. hydro on the tiller post. As you can tell I had a tiller on a 1450, 782, and the new style (uck) on a 1863. The 782 was just a wonderful all around tool for my needs back then. I did like the idea that I could hold back on the Hydro so the tiller could dig better. My 2 cents.

Everybody have a great weekend I'll be in my shop at home working on cubbies.

Pops
 
JIM K. - There's a FIX for that steering problem of only being able to turn tight one way....on the top steering arm the draglink from the steering gearbox attaches to on the left spindle....drill another 3/8" dia. hole about 3/8" to 1/2" closer to the spindle.....then with some minor adjusting of the draglink You can steer really tight in BOTH directions!

Tiller debate? G/D vs Hydro....The tractor is used to just HOLD the tiller back.....either drive method can work.....but My Buddy was tilling My old garden 20 yrs ago to reseed back to grass and hit the stump of a 4 ft tall Canadian Thistle and it picked the WHOLE rearend of His #317 up and moved it about 2 feet forward. After another pass or two over the thistle it was tilled 5-6" deep like the rest of the garden.
 
Denny,

The original (to me) spindle cap was double drilled by a P.O. That was the only reason it was tolerable, I guess. Boy without it, it is unbearable. But the drag link adjustment must have been left out. I'll try to hunt that one up. Thanks for the tip.
 
Denny, thats a neat bit of information on snap ring manufacturing. The only 1/4" - 3/8" outside rings I could find in this neck of the woods last Sat. (for the hydro plates) was from the Hillman S.S. selection at an ACE hardware store. Any pros or cons on the S.S. in this application.
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. No parts box delivered today so I'm going to kick up scallops in Crystal river all weekend. Hey.... clarified butter is almost IH yeller.


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I probly get in deep dodo for this, but the best cub I have used for tilling is bar none my newest one. A 3235, 25hp hydrodrive,hydro lift, hydro driven tiller, forward/revers driections on the tines, 48" wide path. Makes for short work tilling the garden in the spring. Even works great for butstin up sod.

I still use my <font color="ff0000">IH</font> <font color="000000">Cub Cadet 72 for plowing the garden under each fall.
I have a 3point plow for the newer one, but the ole 12hp powered 72 just does a better job pulling the plow.</font>
 
Since Kraig finally admitted he was wrong on the mechanical versus electrical PTO's I won't rub it in.
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Actually I have run about as many mechanical as electrical PTO's and both are pretty reliable. I've rebuilt several mechanical PTO's and have only had one electrical PTO go bad and it was still working only it drew more current than I thought was appropriate. So as far as money goes the mechanical ones have cost me more.

I have converted all of my mechanical PTO's to the new style brake system as I want them to stop the minute I shut off the PTO, a small price to pay for the extra safety.
 
James C:

YES...The hydro pump from a 782 will transfer over to another Cub. I do NOT agree with the previous post. You do NOT have to change the Implement Relief valve and/or spring. The Non Port Hydros didn't have that feature. See attached diagram for your reference...

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Steve G:

You could buy the 122 with the 1A tiller and keep it has a dedicated tiller tractor. You could, as previous posted on the MTD forum, use that tiller on your 1512 as long as you have got the Adaption Packages and Parts.

You may want to check that 122 to see if it has a "creeper" gear box. This would be beneficial when tilling with a Gear Drive Cub.
 
Well, got things started for real this evening and boy was that old clutch wore out. Here's a few pics

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What wear?
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That's why that is stiched in there.....Why didn't they just drill a clearance hole if they were going to butcher it??? Oh well, Jason if your watching don't look.
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Roland,thanks for that advice,I found a JD fan making me sick and parting out an IH 782 I can still get the hydro,driveshaft, mule drive and wheels,could not get the remainder, have a narrow frame 104 I rebuilt a K301 3 years ago for and might make a hybrid 125 with a modern hydro lift, then I might just save it for something else. I'm starting to accumulate a few gears drives if only I built pullers. BTW Digger I'll show you my pushmower when I finish it. Thanks
 
Got some rims last year that had yellow paint on them. Someone must have used them as a bench for painting. Kinda lazy not to throw a rag or blanket over your stuff so you don't get over spray damage. Here is one stripped and one partially yellow.
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Just like new.
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Now its time for another set of ags!

Notice how burnt my lawn is. I hope I don't have to re-seed next year.
 
Terry, oh, that's your lawn... and here I was going to comment on the shag carpet in your workshop. Nice job on the rims!
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Richard, I don't recall admitting I was wrong, at least on the PTO discussion.
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lonny--

havent used the hydraulic tillers, they sound nice! however, i agree on the power....
that's why there is a 23 hp kohler in our 782!!
 

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