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Archive through April 26, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Chris E.
I accidentally sent the topic to the vault, It's not lost. Just stored away.
I started a new topic in the Plow Day and Tractor Show announcements section.
 
Kendall...Hehehe..should also mention to keep his face away from direct line of backfire. I was having a problem with a motorcycle I had so while I was at work my father thought he would mess with it to help me out. He had the side of the air box off looking into it while he sprayed something in there to see what was going on....I thought he looked awfully funny when I got home..his face was all red and no eyebrows, eyelashes, mustache. I couldn't help but
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once he told me what happened.

That concludes today's safety meeting
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Matt G., I was thinking tooth but had not thought of a bearing, will keep that in mind when I tear down. If I can not find the offending foreign object do you think it will operate as is without further damage?
 
Okay....
Time to ask a question...
Today I got the 107 out today and it would not charge.
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Here's what I did.
Changed the bat.
Changed the starter switch.
Amp gauge swing wildly when lights are put on.
Changed the starter gen off one cub that charges
Amp gauge.
2 new regulators also polarized both.
Had a beer
Checked the grounds on the motor and removed excess paint from bolts.
Had a beer
Wire harness is brand new.
Only reads 11.5 volts at the battery and only has a 2 volt reading on the starter gen.
Had a lot of beers after that ordeal.
I did not change the starter selonoid or the beer I was drinking
What's up???
 
Tim K.-

I'd try pretty hard to figure out what the problem is. It obviously isn't normal, which means something is wrong.
 
William,
The only spring in the engine accessible from the cam cover is the ACR spring, or Automatic Compression Release spring, and is located on the side of the camshaft gear. If it wasn't the dipstick cover but the points cover, there could very well be a bad spring on the points themselves, and he could get it to run by holding the points down on the cam, instead of letting the spring do the job.

Points will set you back maybe $10 or so, and take less than an hour to replace and adjust with simple hand tools.

If it is the ACR spring, then it might be a little more complicated. If your uncle saw that the "hook" on the spring simply slipped off of the counterweight and he put it back on, you might already be good to go. If the spring is broken or badly bent out of shape, it will need to be replaced Someone with good hands and some experience might be able to replace the ACR spring without having to remove the oil pan, which would mean removing the engine from the tractor, but from what I could see on a junk camshaft I have, it is a pretty tricky operation working through the cam cover opening alone. Pulling the engine is a pain in the neck, but you're less likely to end up with your new spring at the bottom of the oil pan, or running afoul of one of the moving parts inside the engine. At least the spring can be replaced without removing the camshaft or crank, which requires almost complete disassembly of the engine. If you had to go that far, you might as well rebuild the whole engine while you are at it.
 
I dont know if this will tell you if its the ACR but when the tractor would crank you could see the dipstick being pushed out a little bit like it was moving on its own.
 
William,
I assume your dipstick is on the cam cover, as they were on most 129s, though replacement engines with the dipstick on the front right corner of the engine might be used as well. Chances are the dipstick was moving in and out because the rubber stopper on the cap end was worn or deteriorated, and crankcase pressure from cylinder blowby was causing the stick to move in and out. Some blowby is normal, a badly worn engine will tend to have more blowby than a fresh one, but there is a crankcase ventilation system to vent this excess pressure. You might want to make sure the crankcase vent, which is located in the valve box behind the carburetor is okay and put together properly.

If it feels like something is hitting the dipstick, make sure it is the proper dipstick and it isn't bent. It's possible your dancing dipstick could have fouled on your ACR spring, knocking it off or otherwise damaging it.
 
Lewis-
With all of that pretty paint, I have to ask, how is the ground on the voltage regulator?
 
I picked these two up Saturday.

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Both are not currently running. The 122 won't go into gear, so I need to check into that. The 104 ran a couple of years ago, but now doesn't have spark. PO thought maybe the starter generator was bad on both and the 104 had the points cover off of it like someone was messing with the points.
 
Lewis, are you drinking a Miller product? That might be the problem. Try switching to Sam or something.
 
Terry Reed,

I need a seat for my 104. That one you have there looks pretty good sitting there. Can you send me any info on it? (manufacture model# ???)
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Here's some photos of Denny's sprayer setup. I'll let Denny fill in the details.

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Update on the problem I had with the 129 starving for fuel the other day:

As I mentioned before, after cleaning the carburetor to rule out anything plugging up the works, I found that the cheap muffler I got off of Ebay had split open one of the end caps, causing hot exhaust to shoot right in the direction of the carburetor. The carb rebuild was a success at least in the fact that the engine started right up after getting it all back together, but I didn't thoroughly check to see if I could make it vapor lock again.

This morning I went to my local Cub Cadet dealer (thankfully he's only a couple of miles away), and brought a new muffler for the 129. The new muffler was pretty expensive at about $75, but it looks like it is really built to last. It weighs about 3 times as much as the old one, and is constructed of heavyweight welded and galvanized steel as you can see from the pictures below.

After putting it in, I ran it hard for about a half hour or so without any problems, except for fine tuning the carburetor mixture a bit.

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Here is a shot of the old muffler with the split end cap out of the tractor.

150595.jpg


Here is the new muffler installed in the tractor. Sorry I didn't do a side by side shot, but you should get the idea.
 
I know its the proper dipstick because I am the second owner of this tractor and it has always been the same dipstick. So what do you guys think?? ACR spring? It is probably just a worn out rubber stopper. I remember the motor was professionally rebuilt a probably about 8 years ago so hopefully it isnt excessive blowby. But then again 8 years ago is a long time too...
 
Resto Question: I'm getting ready a redo a 149 and was wondering if folks replace all the hydro linkage plates, weld the trunion notches up, re-shim plates, and replace trunion springs? Will this make controlling the hydro as smooth as the day it rolled off the lot? Or is it overkill? I want to tear down this tractor once and be done. Any tips? THanks,Dustin
 
First, I'd like to thank all who responded to my post about looking for a FEL and Tiller tractor. I got a lot of responses.

Secondly, I am currently on hold, looking. Financial restraints at the moment.

Third, I have a 'LOOK WHAT FOLLOWED ME HOME' situation.

I met one of our forum members outside Oklahoma City and picked this up 2 Friday's ago. Haven't been online to post since then, been pretty busy trying to get the 122 that will be running this running itself. Just waiting on some parts to finish up and then 'A Tilling I Will Go'....

Only got one pic, Camera busted, used cel....
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#1 or 1A tiller, not sure which. Came with a 90 deg gearbox. All is there except the belt guard, but I have seen VERY few that have that guard. As soon as I get my 122 running, I'll post some pics of it in action!!!!!

Again, thanks to all who responded, and I WILL be looking again in the future. Just gotta work out a CUB allowance with my CFO(better half)....
 

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