Archive through April 07, 2013

[akleyla]

Ok so Charlie the keeper of the posts here may slap me,but I think I can post this here?

On my 104 the shifter must have broken a shear pin? I can still put it in gear but it moves freely from side to side....

Anyone have a picture or know what size shear pin i will need to fix this ? TY

 

[tbdavis]

Dennis - thank you for your help with the 122. I'll soak it down good tonight and check its temp in the morning. Will do a little homework tonight on the guts of the tranny and decide how far to go. Since I've never seen this tractor operate and the brake rod was missing when I got it I don't have a clue if all is good or not. Thanks again and I'll be sure to post my findings.

 

[thoffman]

Amy,
It's not a shear pin. The weld in the "cup" onder the tras cover is cracked off. If you know a GOOD welder (which I do) he can fix you up.

 

[jstorma]

I'm going to be putting 26x12x12 Tru-power tires on the rear of my 982. Looks like I might have to mounting them on 10-1/2" wide rims. I'll hopefully be adding a loader bucket to this tractor this summer or fall.

Will there be an advantage or disadvantage to using the 10-1/2" wide rims compared to the 8-1/2" wide factory rims?

I'm hoping some people out there are using them and can let me know if they are satisfied with running those wider rims and tires or would rather run them on the 8-1/2" rims.

 

[tbdavis]

Dennis - shot everything with PB, removed the adjusting bolt, drove the pivot pin out and removed the push rod. I can now see the ball and pretty rusty in there. Shot it good and and hoping its laying on the ground in the AM (not likely) but not sure how I'll know if the brakes are actually working inside the reduction housing? Any thoughts?

 

[sblunier]

Jim,

I would use the wide rims.

 

[sblunier]

Amy,

the inside of your shifter is likely worn as shown in the photo and it is possible that the whole "cup" is broken off of the shaft.

Tom is correct, re-weld the cup and build up the edges of the slot with weld then reshape to restore nice tight shifting again.

BTW, your 104 is on-topic.....

 

[sblunier]

David,

I doubt that was any kind of special factory run. More than likely it was a unit that was sold to a commercial or government firm that had very specific standards about fuel safety and their shop modified the tractors for their own use. As Myron stated, these were then sold at a later date to the general public and you happened to run across 2 of them from their "fleet" of modified units.

While I don't doubt that they were modified in the same way by the same owner, I do highly doubt that IH would have made the modifications at the factory. Factory modifications included things like paint colors, odd tire sizes, front axle swaps, and even some "glider units" for forklift, grader, and road roller applications.......but did not likely get down to custom fuel caps.

It screams Maint. Shop mod at a large business or park dist. to me..........

 

[rrschmitt]

Terry D,

On my #2 782 I had to press out the brake arm rockshaft by putting it in press to get access to the brake pucks. I soaked it for several weeks with penetrating oil and hammered it a lot to no avail. I was afraid to hit it too hard for fear of breaking the cast housing supports. It pressed out pretty hard all the way out due to years of moisture/dirt and rust accumulation.

David S,

Boy, I have never seen a gas tank set up like that before on a Quietline. The tank looks like a standard metal tank used on the 1X8/9 series but never seen a locking cap like that. Is the bump in the hood spot welded in place? The hood looks like it was chopped to add the bump. Not sure if that was factory or a post factory modification. Interesting none the less.

 

[aaytay]

Wayne-
The stuff I used is called "Devcon". It's a grey JBweld-looking two-part epoxy, but it's MUCH stronger than any of the JB Weld products I've used. This stuff is like steel-in-a-tube!

Check with Charlie, I bet he can get you a tube of it...