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Archive through April 07, 2013
- Thread starter fcurrier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Had a beautiful sunny day here - Got my tandem Brinly Disc mounted up and went out to the field around my house to see what my worker Cub 73 could do. Did pretty well with turf tires and wet dirt. Added some limestone pcs to the disc for weight, worked better but could barely lift the disc even with spring assist. Wished I could have got a pic or two, but more plow days coming up tho!
John Sergeant
I had a bear of a time a few weeks ago with my 125 getting the timing set correctly.I marked a line on the starter gen basket pulley and place a pointed at the line I made with the S mark on the flywheel visible in the sight hole. set the points at .020 for a bench mark and the when the points break check to see where your line is and the pointer your placed.If when the points break your line is above the pointer you will need to increase the point setting. If the spot where your points break is below the line and the pointer you will need to use a lower than .020 point setting.I hope this all makes sense.
1. Set points at .020
2. Turn over engine to get the S make in the site hole on the right side of the engine.
3. On the starter gen basket pulley place a mark accost the pulley and I used a magnet pointer and placed it just below the Mark.do this on the point side so you will always know where the S make is
from the point side of the tractor.
4.This made the job so easy knowing when the S mark was in the site hole and not having to walk around the Cub to see every time the engine was rolled over.
Good luck, The .020 is a starting point and you might find that when the points are set correctly you might be using a different setting. My 125 has a point setting of .024 ;I think and It runs nice now.
I had a bear of a time a few weeks ago with my 125 getting the timing set correctly.I marked a line on the starter gen basket pulley and place a pointed at the line I made with the S mark on the flywheel visible in the sight hole. set the points at .020 for a bench mark and the when the points break check to see where your line is and the pointer your placed.If when the points break your line is above the pointer you will need to increase the point setting. If the spot where your points break is below the line and the pointer you will need to use a lower than .020 point setting.I hope this all makes sense.
1. Set points at .020
2. Turn over engine to get the S make in the site hole on the right side of the engine.
3. On the starter gen basket pulley place a mark accost the pulley and I used a magnet pointer and placed it just below the Mark.do this on the point side so you will always know where the S make is
from the point side of the tractor.
4.This made the job so easy knowing when the S mark was in the site hole and not having to walk around the Cub to see every time the engine was rolled over.
Good luck, The .020 is a starting point and you might find that when the points are set correctly you might be using a different setting. My 125 has a point setting of .024 ;I think and It runs nice now.
Matthew Pramas
If the Rag joint (coupling disk) is rubbing on the hydro filter the bolts have ripped out there holes and it will need to be replaced. On a NF tractor it is harder to do; but you will have to take the bolts and nuts off on at a time spinning the drive shaft till you can pull the drive shaft down to get the old rag joint out. That should keep you busy for at least an hr. There is not much room up in there and the job requires small Hands lol.
If the Rag joint (coupling disk) is rubbing on the hydro filter the bolts have ripped out there holes and it will need to be replaced. On a NF tractor it is harder to do; but you will have to take the bolts and nuts off on at a time spinning the drive shaft till you can pull the drive shaft down to get the old rag joint out. That should keep you busy for at least an hr. There is not much room up in there and the job requires small Hands lol.
John Boelens
I used my Brinly Disc last summer, I have three sets.I found I needed a lot of weight to make them do the job.I had 200 lbs on the first set and 100 lbs on the next set and 75 lbs on the last set .I did have cat O with hyd lift and that helped with tru powers and 100 lb wheel weights on each wheel. It did make my 1512 Diesel snort and work. If it ever dries up around here I have a few gardens to do this spring and want to try my 149 at pulling the disk around. Also the 147 with the tiller.That should be a fun day .
I used my Brinly Disc last summer, I have three sets.I found I needed a lot of weight to make them do the job.I had 200 lbs on the first set and 100 lbs on the next set and 75 lbs on the last set .I did have cat O with hyd lift and that helped with tru powers and 100 lb wheel weights on each wheel. It did make my 1512 Diesel snort and work. If it ever dries up around here I have a few gardens to do this spring and want to try my 149 at pulling the disk around. Also the 147 with the tiller.That should be a fun day .
jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Keith, getting back to your discrepincies
your maintenance minder is the same as the two I have.
My book states that at 588841 they changed the maintenance minder from part 107201C1 to part 107201C2
It says that the new minder had 60 hour increments and a easier to read dial face.
Both yours and mine say BORG at the bottom, also niether mine nor yours have an IH on there and I thought they did.
I guess we both could have non-stock meters, That are not original.
Any one have a early OEM meter to show us??
sorry I have no more on the springs vs screws on the screen
your maintenance minder is the same as the two I have.
My book states that at 588841 they changed the maintenance minder from part 107201C1 to part 107201C2
It says that the new minder had 60 hour increments and a easier to read dial face.
Both yours and mine say BORG at the bottom, also niether mine nor yours have an IH on there and I thought they did.
I guess we both could have non-stock meters, That are not original.
Any one have a early OEM meter to show us??
sorry I have no more on the springs vs screws on the screen
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
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- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Dennis & Myron - great info on batteries!!! I'm scratching my head wondering if a group 26 battery would fit in my 126...
Dennis - speaking of Ford Fiesta's, I had an uncle who had one of those in the late 70's. It was canary yellow, was german made and a very well built/tight car - or at least my brother and I thought. This car lived a hard life and at the end, had a trailer hitch fitted to it and towed a trailer with about 10-15 bales of hay for pasture feeding cattle in the winter time - LOL.
Back on IHCC content. Pulled the snow blade off the 109, put the 44A deck on it, a new pto botton and hauled it to my Dad's camp for summer mowing duty this year.
Dennis - speaking of Ford Fiesta's, I had an uncle who had one of those in the late 70's. It was canary yellow, was german made and a very well built/tight car - or at least my brother and I thought. This car lived a hard life and at the end, had a trailer hitch fitted to it and towed a trailer with about 10-15 bales of hay for pasture feeding cattle in the winter time - LOL.
Back on IHCC content. Pulled the snow blade off the 109, put the 44A deck on it, a new pto botton and hauled it to my Dad's camp for summer mowing duty this year.
kostendorf
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- Aug 19, 2012
- Messages
- 617
- displayname
- Keith Ostendorf
Thanks Jeff, I think the PO changed a few things on this tractor but I'm happy it runs and looks new. Not bad for 35 years old.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Norm Bartee: A digital hour meter can be zeroed out by hooking it to a battery and letting it run. I'm doing one, now. I haven't dared try hooking one up and trying it in reverse. It's a long process at 24 hours/day so I may just bring it to an even number like 2,000 and use it from there.
I have a question about wiring a cub cadet
I have a unique project it started as a 102 but I am using a 100 dash so I will have a separate push button for the starter
however the voltage regulator is a 3 pin setup and the diagram I would be following for a 100 has a 4 pin setup
can I wire in a 3pin V/R where a 4 pin should be?
if so how can I do it
thanks
Chris
I have a unique project it started as a 102 but I am using a 100 dash so I will have a separate push button for the starter
however the voltage regulator is a 3 pin setup and the diagram I would be following for a 100 has a 4 pin setup
can I wire in a 3pin V/R where a 4 pin should be?
if so how can I do it
thanks
Chris
chris rolke
That is easy to do. just run a wire from the key switch on side to the push start button and from there to the small post on the solenoid . The engine will still need a hot lead keyed to the coil. I think Field , battery, ground for the VR.
That is easy to do. just run a wire from the key switch on side to the push start button and from there to the small post on the solenoid . The engine will still need a hot lead keyed to the coil. I think Field , battery, ground for the VR.
BILL J. - I think a grp 26 battery will fit in a 126 since the battery still goes under the hood in front of the steering wheel. Check out the dimensions on your CC and compare with this chart, http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html
The later WF tractors with the battery under the seat can't use that tall of a battery without significant seat mount modifications.
Yep, Dad's little Fiesta was a good little car. Think he had it 3-4 yrs, well over 100,000 miles. Folks went on vacation for 2-3 weeks one summer and Dad let me use the Fiesta to drive out and do chores at night after work. Fiesta got 35-40 MPG, my F150 about 13-14. Was amazing that little 1.6L 4-cyl could propel that car as well as it did.
I remember the night over at my Uncle's farm where my one cousin who was about 6 ft 5 inches tall pulled into the yard and promptly got into Dad's Fiesta. He had to really work to get bent over enough to get in the thing. When he came into the house he asked who's car it was. Dad told him he'd have to get the optional sun roof on his so he had enough head room. Probably have needed some goggles too for driving with his head sticking out the sun roof. ;-)
The later WF tractors with the battery under the seat can't use that tall of a battery without significant seat mount modifications.
Yep, Dad's little Fiesta was a good little car. Think he had it 3-4 yrs, well over 100,000 miles. Folks went on vacation for 2-3 weeks one summer and Dad let me use the Fiesta to drive out and do chores at night after work. Fiesta got 35-40 MPG, my F150 about 13-14. Was amazing that little 1.6L 4-cyl could propel that car as well as it did.
I remember the night over at my Uncle's farm where my one cousin who was about 6 ft 5 inches tall pulled into the yard and promptly got into Dad's Fiesta. He had to really work to get bent over enough to get in the thing. When he came into the house he asked who's car it was. Dad told him he'd have to get the optional sun roof on his so he had enough head room. Probably have needed some goggles too for driving with his head sticking out the sun roof. ;-)
Finally got to get in the garden after all of the rains we've had. I started out turning it the same way the rows will go...at an angle but I decided to just do it lengthwise after a bit. The last pic is of most of the garden space. It takes quite a while to get it all turned.
The 129 has done well. Last year the trunion blew out at about half way through. It looks like it gonna take about 3 gallons of fuel to just turn it. Next I'll get ole Claude, the Ford 4000 with the harrow and chew it up enough for the tiller. It's going in a little late but better late than never.
The 129 has done well. Last year the trunion blew out at about half way through. It looks like it gonna take about 3 gallons of fuel to just turn it. Next I'll get ole Claude, the Ford 4000 with the harrow and chew it up enough for the tiller. It's going in a little late but better late than never.
Yea, me too!
Maybe in July! LOL
Maybe in July! LOL
GORDON - I think your 318 would just cry "UNCLE" with one look at a 1712. The 1712 is "technically" an MTD/CCC tractor but it's chocked full of IH DNA. It's bigger than a O/T 332 and just a bit lighter and IMO more manuverable than a 430 with the same HP and the same or better fuel efficiency. IH didn't offer or really need the 2-spd trans. after the hydro on their SGT's, nor did they offer a diff lock, which would have been a nice option, but tough to incorporate into the IH rearend.
Compared to the little green tractors the Cub Cadets are practically bullet-proof, and SO much more simple to work on what little they need it. And parts are so much more interchangable. Once you get past the '61/'63 original Cub Cadets, the 70/100 models up to the 86/1X8/1X9's still share a LOT of common parts. The Quiet-Line, 800/1000/1200/1250/1450/1650's have different parts like the elec PTO, bendix style starter & flywheel generator, plus the rubber engine mounts & side panels, and not as many parts interchange. Same with the newer IH red tractors, 482/582/682/782/982, not as many interchangable parts there either. But then Cub Cadets don't need much work or parts to keep them running.
The biggest problem we face is the pullers getting hold of all the good old gear drive CC's and making pulling tractors out of them. Some even put NON-IH sheet metal on them. To me, that sounds like dressing a Belgian draft horse up like a donkey.
Compared to the little green tractors the Cub Cadets are practically bullet-proof, and SO much more simple to work on what little they need it. And parts are so much more interchangable. Once you get past the '61/'63 original Cub Cadets, the 70/100 models up to the 86/1X8/1X9's still share a LOT of common parts. The Quiet-Line, 800/1000/1200/1250/1450/1650's have different parts like the elec PTO, bendix style starter & flywheel generator, plus the rubber engine mounts & side panels, and not as many parts interchange. Same with the newer IH red tractors, 482/582/682/782/982, not as many interchangable parts there either. But then Cub Cadets don't need much work or parts to keep them running.
The biggest problem we face is the pullers getting hold of all the good old gear drive CC's and making pulling tractors out of them. Some even put NON-IH sheet metal on them. To me, that sounds like dressing a Belgian draft horse up like a donkey.
