Archive through April 02, 2006

[dfrisk]

TED - Try adjusting the main fuel needle on Your carb about a half a turn richer and see if Your CC runs better. My old 72 used to stick the valve occasionally because of the air leaking past the worn out throttle shaft bushings and I tried MMO with no luck.... half a turn richer fixed the problem.

 

[mfisher]

Kyle M and Ron S - Thanks for the info. I've combed the FAQ's among other places and I'm going to take another look this evening. I'll start by wire brushing all connections to ensure good contact and take it from there. Ron - you may be right about a less than healthy battery. It's been inactive for 2 years and although I put a trickle charge on it for a total of 15+ hours, the bright lights may be deceiving. Thanks again to the guys from Kansas!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ted, yes MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil you add it to the gasoline and it'll take several tank worth for it to work. Or it could be like Denny just wrote. In any case using MMO in every tankfull will help to reduce the chance of carbon buildup in the future.

 

[pfunk]

Ted, as Kraig said, yes, that's Marvel Mystery Oil. I have no idea what was going on in the engine to make the valve stick and release, but we'd be mowing and the engine would suddenly start backfiring a couple of times and completely loose power. After is sat about 5 minutes, it was good to go again for a while. I tried a new coil, points and condenser but that didn't help. I then figured it must've been something in the fuel delivery. I rebuilt the carb, tried a different carb, and nothing helped. It may have just been a coincidence, but when I started using MMO, the problem went away. I have an overhead 150 gal tank, and I just pour in the recommeded amount. The directions are on the bottle. Again, good luck. If that's the problem it's a pretty cheap fix.

 

[fcurrier]

Ted B. Could the gas cap vent be plugged? I just picked up a 129 for cheap because PO couldn't keep it running. I put a Champion H10C in it and replaced the unvented gas cap and away we went!

 

[tcbusch]

Ted,
You could connect a timing light to the tractor and start using it heavy. When the engine stops running the light should stop as well if its the coil. However a weak spark might still trigger the light. Just a thought.

 

[tbordeleau]

Thanks to all for the MMO and carb info. I will turn out the fuel screw as suggested because in truth, it has always sounded lean to me, and the plug just seemed a little too "white".

I looked in the FAQ (finally) and found the info on MMO, and that's enough to convince me (I also believe in the Roswell, NM UFO crash). I'll order a head gasket, clean that sucker up, and run the MMO thru it.

Thanks, guys! I suppose if none of that works, THEN I'll swap in a new coil...

 

[rbedell]

Ted B:

You may also want to check the Coil, when the engine has died. A bad coil is usually very warm to the touch. If you have a VOM meter, here is a Schematic for a Kohler Ignition Coil and the Resistance Values for you to compare:

 

[dclinansmith]

Ted B,
A few years ago my 149 had the same problem you describe.If you stood by the engine after it quit some times you could hear the valve snap shut as the engine cooled, I was finally able to determine that it was the Exh. valve sticking. When I got it running again I used a squirt can and flooded the engine with MMO until it almost stalled. My next couple tanks of gas were rich with MMO then I reduced the amount but I put it in every tank of gas now and I have not had a problem in 3 or 4 years.

 

[sblunier]

Ted B.

Also check for good fuel flow from the tank at the time of the problem. Sometimes varnish can form slimey films over sediment bowl screens, etc and hamper fuel flow.

 

[mkopishke]

Quick balance gear(s) question. I've got my K341 opened up and grabbed a hold of the bottem balance gear and there was quite a bit (1/8 inch) of back and forth slop. It doesn't seem to be as bad on the top gear.

Is this normal? I know a lot of folks ditch the gears but my feet tingle after mowing the lawn so I would hate to make it worse.

I do have the manual but all it says is to visually check needle bearings for wear.

Thanks

 

[wcompton]

Matt-
With that much play in the gears, I wouldn't be suprised if the tractor vibrates LESS without them.

 

[mfisher]

A brand new DieHard solved my problem. It came to life right now . When I went out there after work and the lights barely glowed, I knew that at the very least, I'm going to need a new battery. Once installed, it did the trick.

 

[cbusch]

My brother is going to haul my 125 to Iowa, so I'll have both my garden tractors there.

On my dad's plow of no name, I'm going to mount a sleeve hitch adapter. On my brother's cub plow the hitch is 12 inches off the ground. On the no name plow, the hitch is much higher than that so I'll have to make an offset.

On the no-name plow, the hitch is 3 inches forward of the plow tip. But I think my brother's is a lot farther forward. How long should the hitch be?

 

[dgallagher]

I have a 129 that is hard to start, especially if it has been sitting for a few days. When it turns over, I seem to get an occasional slight backfire. Eventually it will catch and run perfectly. I have adjusted the points once and checked them again and they are right on 20 thousanths. Plug is new and gapped. I have also opened the main jet about 1/4 turn. My other cubs , 149s, start on the first turn with no problem. Any suggestions?

 

[till]

Dang!! I am gald the 682 is red. That way nobody will see the blood from my knuckles. But the 3 point and spring assist are in!!!!

Now to take care of the tires and weights and dig out the plow.

Must plow....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

[tbordeleau]

Thanks for the coil test numbers, Roland. I think I'll try the timing light test, too, because it sounds easy!

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE G. - Sounds like two problems.... Weak battery or bad connections.... and Your compression release spring isn't allowing the tab on the exh. valve lobe to open and relieve compression.

 

[rrschmitt]

Has anyone had problems with the brake rockshaft sticking on hydros with the internal brake?
On my second 782 that I got late last year, the brake pedal will not return all the way back to the top position on its own after pushing it down to start the engine or returning the hydro to neutral when operating. It will only go about 2/3rd's of the way up by itself. The return spring is tight and is applying return force. Cleaned everything up with the power washer and put oil and grease on the moving parts but no improvement. Finally disconnected the tie rod to the brake rockshaft and found that it is very stiff and difficult to move even with a cheater bar on it. I plan to try some penetrating oil tonight to see it will loosen up but if that don't work, how difficult is it to remove the shaft through the rockshaft arm? How is this shaft held in place? I don't see any roll pins. Is it held in place by interference fit in the transmission housing or does the brake adjusting screw retain the shaft? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.

Ron

 

[digger]

Since it's slow today,
Lets to a WHAT DO THEY FIT thing.
The winner will get a prize but will have to come to PD11 to claim it.
This little game is ONLY FOR Lurkers!

Got a little bored today so I decided to load up for PD!