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Archive through April 02, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Curt R. -

Well, if you want to blindly toss money at it, go ahead and replace everything you can find
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First thing I'd do is READ the service manual and understand what you're looking for from a "does it need to be replaced or not" perspective.

You're there physically with the tractor - you'd be the best judge of whether something needs to be replaced or not.

Being in a rush to throw it all back together is how mistakes get made.
 
Bryan,
Thanks thats good advise, unfortunately time is my enemy on this, I've only got like 2 weekends to get the old motor out, move the carb and tinwork to the new motor, get it in and running. I was just wondering if there were common things that will need replacing. I doubt the motor has ever been off this tractor before.
For instance I just replaced the transmission on my car. I did the clutch and throwout bearing while I was there. The clutch that was in it was working okay but I don't want to be in there again anytime soon for something stupid like that. Sure it cost me an extra $300 but thats money well spent. I'd like to make the same sort of decisions on the tractor too. I don't mind spending extra money now to ensure things stay working well for a long time.
 
Curt R. -

It's a 30 year old tractor (give or take) - of course things need to be replaced.

But you're not going to know whether they NEED to be replaced until you take it apart.

Theoretically ANY bearing, wear surface, seal, yadda yadda can be worn out and need replacing.

I can't for the life of me imagine any reason that reassembling a Cub Cadet would be a life or death situation
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Curt-You are certainly welcome. Like "B.Mizzle" said,take your time and just look at things. I'd estimate your cluch and PTO may need some attention just because of age,but then again there are tractors of that age working just fine too. I've found that lack of usage and sitting around really does a machine in,kinda like people....
 
Gentlemen,

Thanks to all that responded on the K241 posts. Your comments are much appreciated.

Rick, as for costs, the machine work, gasket set, piston and rings, exhaust valve, and points came to $200.00. Carburetor throttle shaft and rebuild kits, pto clutch bearing, exhaust elbow, and brush set for the starter-generator added another $100.00. The PointSaver and Bosch coil are $55.00 additional. Labor in this would normally be $300.00, so total cost around $655.00. But the labor was traded even for the Cub neon sign, something I've wanted for many years. I'm very pleased with that deal.
 
Today I took my 109's deck subframe off & am cleaning it up for a repaint & I'm wondering if the pins & rods are painted as well? Some of them were & some of em weren't. I'm getting search exhausted(maybe I'm missing somthing) I did find some great black & white pics TIA.
 
Thanks Dave. That's right in where I'd figured it would be.

I got my stuff BTW. Thanks again. Will let you know when it's installed.
 
Can some tell me what this round thing is for? Looks like it is suppose to slide over the tube on the hitch. Is it so the bolts don't dig into the plow hitch? Do most people use them? Should I make one for my new hitch? If so does someone have the dimensions?

Thanks,
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Terry I'll try to get dimensions for ya...Just picked up a new pp-510 plow that the owner never assembled...I'll try to get it in the A.M...KURT
 
Sorry Terry that piece was in the sleeve hitch box for a brand X that I did'nt buy...KURT
 
Just a little PSA:

If you or anybody you know will be conducting Cub business in central IL......I-74 thru downtown Peoria is closed for the next 6 months...plan on taking a little extra time if you need to haul Cubs, etc. in the area.
 
CURT R. - Clutches in those old 72's are pretty simple. The T/O bearings are kinda expensive but I'd replace it anyhow. And get a new "Teaser Spring", and three anti-rattle springs and if the three holes aren't too egg-shaped that drive the clutch disc Your Good top Go. Put the anti-rattle springs on the drive pins before You slide the engine back to engage the clutch disc, they won't fly away then. Might want to get new roll pins to hold the steel clutch discs on the driveshaft too, removing them may mash the ends up. Far as the PTO clutch, the rebuild kit comes with everything You'll need except the center steel button and the pilot bearing. Until You get the old one out. If the engine Your taking out & the one Your putting in are not in too bad of shape the swap should only take a couple (2-3) hours with simple hand tools. Those little K-181's only weigh 80-90#
 
Terry, that is a stabilizer plate, goes over the pin area and goes inbetween the implement and the twin adjustment bolts, you tighten up the bolts till the implement is held tight and doesnt rock back and forth. I always use mine and I carry a wrench to tighten and loosen the twin bolts. I prefer to hook up everything correctly, that way nothing gets torn up. Got that lessen the hard way living on the family farm! Cheers Mike
 
Terry "B",
I use that "round" thing for a door stop. Work good if you wedge it in there. I don't use it on my plow. I prefer to have a little "give/swing" on the plow.
 
Very Blatant P.S.A.......Casting call for your Cub Cadet tractor to appear in my next Cub Cadet book. Bring your mint original condition tractor or mint restored tractor to the Iowa Plow day to be photographed. All participants will be compensated. Email me if you have questions, or wish to participate.
 
here is a paint color question, posed to me by another 71 owner, what is the correct color for the grill on a 71, I have heard of both black and cadet white. I have never seen a black one, mine is unpainted metal, kind of a silver/grey color. Thanks Mike
 

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