Archive through April 02, 2005

[areinholtz]

Question----------The H-tran oil sold at Lowe's,for Cub Cadets. Is it good for older Cubs, like the 129 or 149?

 

[thoffman]

Art, If it is the Official MTD Hytran, you good with it. Just make sure it isn't "Joe's hytran" or something like that.

 

[tcbusch]

Finished my hitch today. Got it painted and everything. I had to mount the straps to the side of the hitch due to my rear hitch extension. I decided to keep a rounded end shape. I think it looks better than a square end. Hope the sleeve hitch attachments will fit. I'll take a picture of the hitch mounted tomorrow.

Now I just need a plow.

 

[tcbusch]

I forgot to ask, I need to get the bolts for the anti sway, or whatever they call it. I have seen different pictures of these hitches and haven't figured out how the bolts are suppose to work. Do the bolts get threaded in from the outside in? So that the head of the bolt hits the attachment? Or do the got from the inside out so the tip of the bolt hits the attachment? If it is inside out then I would need bolts with allot of thread. How much thread do I need?

Thanks,
Terry

 

[tschweizer]

Hugh, keep those bars away from me!!! I'm trying to lose weight

 

[bnecker]

Terry-

Those bolts are long and have threads that go all the way to the head and a skinny lil nut. But don't worry about them bolts. It doesn't look like you'll be able to easily get a wrench in to tighten them anyway ! ! ! A

for sure !

 

[mhomrighausen]

Would someone please post a diagram of the way to mount a Brinly helper spring attachment for a narrow frame. As soon as I get a new U clamp made I need to get it on. Local machine shop isn't too keen on making one. They say it will be "almost impossible" (his words) to make one without ruining the threads. I need to go to a different shop on Monday. Also, I have to find another set of weights for the back. My set that I was having stored for me has magically disappeared. I was going to pick them up this morning and I was informed that I already had them. Sure they were generic however they were approximately 100# of nice solid steel. No second hand store has any weight lifting weights on hand either. I am just a little disgruntled that my weights disappeared. Please don't take this as an ad. I just needed to vent. If I don't find any suitable weights then I will still bring the 125 to Plow Day just to have a Cub to drive. Of course if it rains and is postponed until the 16th...... :+) I should have some weights by then.

 

[tcbusch]

Bob,
Getting a wrench on the bolt wont be a problem. Still need the length of the threads though.

 

[dkamp]

Terry- the bolts stick out the back far enough to put pressure against the sleeve hitch to keep it floppin'. If your bolts are long enough to protrude 1/2"-3/4" out the back, they're long enough. If they're shorter, they'll probably still work.

Nice job, BTW...

 

[bnecker]

Terry-

It looks and probably is fairly easy to get a box-end wrench on those bolts when the hitch is off the tractor. When you get it all hooked up and on the tractor I think you will find it an interesting proposition to get not one but two wrenches in there from underneath.

My experience is that the adjustment usually needs to be done in-the-field with an adjustable wrench. Even a moldboard plow likes a bit of latitude in this connection. A well adjusted plow should follow along nicely with the furrow coverage adjusted with the mounting holes in the plow hitch.

BTW Just what implement are you intending to use that requires a "solid" mounting? The only attachment I have used that requires said set-up is an angled rear blade. Most others like to have a bit of "swing" to them.

I have never been able to find those bolts in a hardware store. If you get the right length the threads will not go far enough. Even with the thin locking nut threads must go to the head of the bolt to have the proper reach. BTDT

 

[tcbusch]

The hitch is mounted and I'm ready to go. Not sure what to adjust or if I need anything else so I'll cross my fingers and I'll see what happens when I get there. Here is a picture of the hitch in the down position. Is the hitch suppose to be somewhat level in the down position or point down?

 

[brohde]

Thanks Kraig for the mph. I still need all the ratios.Do you know how they figured those speeds? Im changing engine and trying to figure what size pulley I need on engine. I found the ratios on one site. but when I do the math using those ratios(and compare to the speeds you posted they are off) I come up with 16mph in 3rd? Ether the formula I have for figuring the speeds is wrong or???Thanks Bob

 

[tcbusch]

Bob,
I took the advice from someone else to put the flat of the angle on the top. The easiest way to adjust those bolts is with the hitch up. I could flip the hitch over but then the extend part of the tube would point down. Everything else is symmetrical.

What do you mean by solid mounting? Do you mean solid up and down or side to side. The up and down does have travel on the hydraulic cylinder. I made 2 plates to pin the cylinder solid if I am blading. Otherwise I usually let it float.

 

[dkirk]

I recently performed an engine rebuild on a 10 hp Kohler K241A for a friend’s Cub Cadet 106 that he’s restoring. He requested some mild modifications just to add a little extra to the performance. As the pictures for the original Killer Kohler article turned out rather poorly, I thought a photo shoot of this engine going together would be appropriate.

After teardown, the block was sent out for boring .010 over from standard, acid dipping to clean up, and valve seats cut. Mounted up to the engine stand, it was ready for a mild port and relief job.

 

[dkirk]

The deck was first to get some grinding work. The stock valve pockets are machined in from the deck face and have rather sharp edges for gas flow to traverse. This is what the stock deck surface looks like.

Blending these edges and taking out all sharp corners is known as a “relief”. The modification increases volumetric efficiency by creating less restriction to gas flow. This is a partial relief, as pockets are blended into the existing deck face. A full relief extends a full depth cut all the way to the bore circumference. The material is not very thick on the block casting in this area thus I’m leery of doing full reliefs on Kohler engines.

From the side, a little more dramatic view is seen.

 

[dkirk]

The intake and exhaust ports are next. The stock intake port is formed by a sand core during casting and has the typical rough surface found on cast iron blocks.

Some careful grinding using medium grit stones and emery flapper wheel smoothes out the surface and allows a flow improvement. A mirror finish is not necessary, but just smooth to the touch.

The inside radius of the port is a very important area to blend. Some blocks have rather sharp corners here that need to be blended into a smooth continuous radius.

The exhaust port gets the same treatment, although not as extensive. Removing sharp corners and blending are performed here.

 

[dkirk]

Next, all chips and grinding dust is blown out of the ports using compressed air. With the block now prepared, assembly can begin. First the pto-side ball main bearing is pressed into place, the governor gear is assembled into the block, lifters oiled and dropped in, then the camshaft is fitted.

This engine is running the stock camshaft and lifters as requested by the owner.



The valves were in very good condition and the intake was reused, after a regrind. The exhaust valve was replaced with a new Stellite valve. They were both chucked in the drill press and all sharp corners gently radiused with a hand file. The intake valve head underside was polished with emery cloth.

 

[dkirk]

A new .010 over piston and rings was fitted to the original rod. This engine was in amazing condition - the rod and crankpin both measured no discernable wear and were right on the nominal dimensions. Either the previous owner never ran this very much, or he took impeccable maintenance procedures. Thus, the original connecting rod and crankshaft were refitted.

Next, the crankshaft was installed after aligning the timing marks.

The bearing plate was then fitted using one black and one brown gasket, and bolts torqued to 35 foot pounds. Note new grade 5 bolts fitted. Crank end clearance was checked and found to be .005 in., right in tolerance range.

Piston and rod were then loaded into the bore using a ring compressor and plenty of oil. Rod oil hole was oriented toward camshaft. Rod bolts then torqued to 28 foot pounds in three stages, then loosened, then brought back to 24 foot pounds, as per the manual. Here is the rod and piston installed.

 

[dkirk]

Then the valves were lapped to the seats using a fine compound. After removing all traces of lapping compound, the springs and keepers were installed. First though, some Never Seize grease was applied sparingly to the exhaust valve stem for initial lubricant. Regular 30-weight oil was used on the intake stem. Valve clearance was set to intake = .008 and exhaust = .017.

Here is a view from the deck.

 

[dkirk]

Now the engine was ready for its oil pan, but prior to that, some white lithium grease is applied to both intake and exhaust cams for pre-lube.

Oil pan was then fitted and new bolts torqued to 35 foot pounds.

Breaker points were next using a steel push rod. Note the attachment screws. I replace those blasted slotted head screws (that always drop and get lost) with socket head cap screws. Using a hex wrench (Allen wrench) offers a much better grip on the screw and it is held securely when negotiating those close quarters when engine is in the tractor frame.

Screw size is #10-24 X 3/8 and four are required – two for the points and two for the cover.