Archive through April 02, 2005

[dkirk]

Before fitting the breather cover, I coat the gasket with silicone grease. This prevents it from sticking when checking valve clearances. The gasket lasts for many cover removals.

This engine “gets the treatment” with billet, red anodized breather and fuel pump covers.

The cylinder head was bead blasted and cleaned up nicely.

The sealing surface was decked .025 in the mill to raise compression ratio slightly.

Prior to fitting the head to the block, all bolt holes were chased with a well-oiled tap. This assures accurate torque values.

 

[dkirk]

The remainder of the components were then assembled to the engine, including carburetor, governor linkage, and exhaust stub. A PointSaver is also installed, and a Bosch “Blue” coil will be used to complete the ignition system.

The PTO clutch was also reconditioned while apart. The owner wanted a black engine thus all parts were sprayed with Crylon Barbeque Black, a high temperature paint available at True Value hardware stores.

Flywheel and clutch drive plate get painted too.

This completes my job on the rebuild. The owner will be painting and reassembling the rest of the components. It was a fun job, made better by the payment received for the labor involved.

I hope some of these tips prove useful to those rebuilding their Kohler engines. The billet breather covers, PointSaver, and Bosch “Blue” coil are available through my website, www.kirkengines.com.

 

[thoffman]

Dave "K the 1st.",
Very cool!!!

 

[mroxby]

Hello All

Question on A 782D Radiator. Or any radiator in general I suppose.

My tractors radiator seems to have a slight leak in it. I bought some of the Prestone radiator stop leak.

Prior to me putting this stuff in can anyone tell me if it is safe to use? In other words will it damage the radiator or block? Or is it good to go.

 

[tcbusch]

David Kirk,
First of all

.
How long does a rebuild like that take?

 

[rmunday]

Dave,

Nice job!!!

What's the ballpark on the cost? If you don't mind me asking.

(Message edited by rmunday on April 03, 2005)

 

[rpatton]

Mark I wouldn`t use it . fix the rad .

 

[sblunier]

Bob R.

There is a 7:1 reduction in the transmission (before the gear set), the gear set reduction, and finally a 4:1 reduction at the ring gear.......if all of the numbers are in the x:1 format multiply the top numbers and divide the engine RPM by that number to find true rear axle RPM. Convert RPM to Revs per hour (divide by 60) and multiply the result by the tire circumfrence in miles......easy huh?????

Terry,

You will not need your vertical lock out on the lift linkages, plows need to float up and down. You may need your sway limiter (side to side) depending on the plowing conditions and the condition of your plow. You may have to limit the left swing to help keep the plow landside from riding out of the furrow.

Since you used 1/2" bolts for your sway limiters, just go down to the hardware store and pick up some 1/2" redi-bolt (all thread). Cut off 2 ea. +/-3" long pieces, thread a nut 3/4 of the way on one end and burn in the last 2 threads with the welder...nice long all threaded bolts that will easily take a full size jam nut and be easy to adjust (out away from your upper angle flange).

Tweaked the 782 a little today....it's screaming for some plow time!!!!!!

 

[sblunier]

Dave K #1,

Very nice work...looks like a happy little K-241!!!!!

 

[hsimon]

Spent the day getting the 582 Modified and the 582 "Queen" ready for Plow Day. Pulled the plow out of the shed and got the trailer snaked out of the backyard with the 147 and checked the lights and condition of the trailer and it is all systems go. Even got some time in on the 1450 with the sweepster sweeping all the sand build up off of the boulevards, kinda fun watching the neighbors faces when they are all out raking. Then I felt the urge to take the 1650 out for a spin to till up a spot in the yard where I had to get some grass seeded to repair winter damages from the blade and a skidloader. In all it was a good cub day, got seat time on almost all of the cubs and
I was able to have them all running for a while to charge up batteries that have been sitting all winter in some of them with out being turned over.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE K #1 - Very nice write-up on the rebuild. I am SO ENVIOUS of Your Payment! Very fitting paymnent for a very nice rebuild!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hugh, shower of crumbs? Those bars were way too good to waste even one crumb! )

Dave K1., nice job!!!!

Bob R., I thought I had the ratios some where but I couldn't find them. I'll have to have another look.

 

[tschweizer]

Mark, don't use it!! It'll seriously reduce the efficiency of the radiator, and they need all the help they can get!!

 

[sblunier]

Bob R.

I mis-read your post below and thought you had a later model gear drive...you must have an Original as you said "pulley size".

Throw out the part about the 7:1 input shaft reduction.....I don't know if that's the same for an original or not (maybe Kraig can confirm)....otherwise trany is the same, as is the rear axle ratio.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, I thought the Originals used a different 2nd gear?

Here's the reduction info for an Original:

I'm still looking for the gear ratios.....

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on April 04, 2005)

 

[mroxby]

Thanks Travis and Rich P on the info.

I'll stay away from the stuff then for now!

I am gonna take it to a local radiator shop to see about getting it recored. My IH dealer recommended that to me when I called them today.

Sure glad I didn't just go ahead and dump it in though!

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

I meant that the formula for calculating ground speed is the same...reduction ratio x tranny ratio x rear end ratio......you have to plug in whatever gear sets your tranny has.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, Ah! )

 

[mtoney]

David K, nice work on the rebuild!! I wish I had the shop set up to do that to my 71, its in desprite need as its burning oil profusly!! Would be interseting to see some kind of dyno results between a stock kohler and one with those mods. Cheers Mike

 

[craymond]

Okay gang, I've got my K181 (thanks Kevin) I've got my 72, I've got my service manual (Binder Books rocks!) I'm about ready to put 'em all together. The question is what else do I need?
Should I be planning on a throw out bearing while I'm in there? What about the clutch? I don't have it all apart yet and won't be able to for a couple weeks and then I'll need it working in short order so I want to make sure I've got all the bits I need when I do it.
The new motor is needed because the old one broke the connecting rod, everything else still worked at that time.
Thanks for any advice you can give.