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I talked to my Kohler dealer today and he told me the rod in the Killer Kohler write up has been superseded. No info on the new rod. Does anyone know if it is still a strong version or a more standard version? I also would like to know the part number for the standard size Mahle piston like the 10 over one in the write up. Thanks for any help.
 
How far are OEM Kohler crankshaft bearings to be trusted, both in terms of power and RPM?
 
So by the lack of a response, I'm assuming that nobody's ever tried using a K241 head on a K301?
 
Dave,
Aren't the 10 and 12 the same head? I've had many apart and they don't look different. Don, care to clarify? Kenny
 
Dave Kamp,
I'm planning on it. Right now, I've just removed a pile of carbon, am blending in the area around the spark plug, and smoothing out some ridges and gaps from casting. There really are some ugly casting marks in it. I'll have to flatten the gasket surface where it looks like somebody had scraped it on a sidewalk to get an old gasket removed. May need to be milled a little, but it looks like it could be cleaned up with some elbow grease and sandpaper stuck to a sheet of glass. I'm not sure what to use to stick the elbow grease to the glass, though.
This isn't a project that is going to be done right away. It's just in the gathering parts stage now. Probable timeframe for actual building is sometime this summer, most likely in July or early August.
If you try something different, let everybody know how it's working. You have some good posts on the open forum.
 
DAVE K. Plenty of places to have Your head planed in the Q-C's. I had Lohse Automotive do the machine work on My K-241 19 yrs ago. I knew the shop Manager from some work I was in charge of from FARMALL. The head was warped over .060" and if I retorque it every couple years it doesn't leak. Tractor still gets 50-100 hrs per year and about half of them are around full load. I almost ended up with a small surface grinder about 1-1/2 yrs ago to dress up heads, etc., but hauling it was a problem. It weighed around 1500# and I didn't think Wyatt's trailer would hold it unless I cribbed up where it sat on the deck. Plus My loader on the Super H can't quite pick that much weight which would have made unloading a problem.
The 10, 12, and 14 HP heads should be interchangable, There may be some differences in combustion chamber design and/or cooling fins but they will bolt up.
 
if you can find a 10 hp LP head that would help you. remember anything you do to raise compression will hurt cold weather starting with the starter/gen. ring gear starters do much better. I think the early 10/12 hp heads were the same. later 12 & 14 hps were the same
 
Don (anybody) Find me a 10LP head and I'll give a try at recasting one, then put it on my 127 to give it the test run and return the original 10LP head unharmed.

Bruce, some years ago I welded up a blown head for Necker and surfaced it on plate glass with masking tape over the edges of the sand paper. I first worked down the bulk with an in-line air file then finished it on 220 paper for about 3 hours. (way to much work for what it was bolted to but, I'll not say)

Dennis - surface grinder for aluminum ? As you know, it'll gall up an ordinary stone.

Wyatt - I'm waiting for your next question ... You've got me wondering what you're up to.
 
KEN - Aluminum on Aluminum Oxide stones don't work. I think My shop used Silicon Carbide or something like that and ground it wet. Hardest part was keeping the head on the table. The alum. head wouldn't stay stuck to Their Magnetic chuck. At the time I was rebuilding that engine I was working upstairs from the largest grinding shop in the Quad-Cities area, Moline & Rock Island, Ill. and Davenport & Bettendorf, IA. That shop had over 2/3rds of the Blanchard rotary surface grinders in the area. I remember the pic's You posted of Rev's head. Nice work!
 
I can get piles of 10hp heads, well maybe a couple, but what is the LP?? 10 hp LP head? Help please.
Also, I am going to build a 12hp from a 10hp. I have a used 12hp short block in great condition. Planning on swapping the parts from the 10hp. The 10 is complete and running on a 104, the 12hp is from a JD112. Will all the parts bolt to the 12hp?? Planning on using some of the ideas from the "killer" project to... well make me feel good mostly. Will the swap work? Head, pan, covers, carb exhaust, etc...

thanks!
 
Heads:
On the right is a 10hp "LP" head, on the left is a regular early 10hp head. Note the small valve pocket for the exhaust valve and the material that's removed on the "non-LP" head.
16908.jpg

16909.jpg
 
Wyatt,
It is hard to tell from that pic, but the head
on the right looks like it still has the big dip in the middle. I have a couple early 10 hp heads
that look like the one on the right but have the big dip in the middle. The one on the left looks like a late 10 head with the low bolts bosses.

Dave Kamp,
I have both a 12 and a 14 with early 10hp heads
on them and they work fine. Although like Don
said, they are a liitle hard to start in the cold weather with S/Gs on them.
 
So another NQS season is over and we have our new points champions. Congratulations go out to them ;
SA..... Todd & Colt Vorhees
30's... Connie Morgenstern
Outlaw. Russ Nichols
PS......Jim Morgenstern
SS..... Russ Nichols


Also good run in the finals by fellow forum member Rick Goodman finishing second place. Rick appeared to have a bladder control problem along with several others. I hope pay backs aren't to bad.


Elaine "00 Buckshot" Fisher finished second in points in the Super Stock class. We also found out how loud She can scream when the pull building is quiet and some unknown individual pours water down her back.

Anyone who's ever pulled with NQS knows how tough it is to qualify let alone finsh well in points. the competion is the strongest you'll ever see anywhere.
 
Hey Don, I just signed up for the Buckshot Revenge Tour 2004. With the leadership of Elaine, you'd better be very carefull.

After the runs I made I got to thinking that I was blessed with Official NQS Holy Water you put down my firesuit pocket.

Warning to all, never turn your back on this guy.

Had a great time this weekend, very nice facility.
 
Ive got a 8HP Magnum engine layin here with a hole in the block.

Can I take the bearing plate,flywheel, starter, stator ect. off the magnum and put it on my K181?
Im tired of having my battery dead or rebuilding the s/g a million times.
 
Today I clearanced the bottom of the bore of my K321 for use with a long rod. Removed much more material than I thought I'd need to, but being that it's only a 3.5" bore I suppose clearance is at a little more of a premium than a K341. Sort of a pain in the butt to do a nice looking and smooth job with an angle grinder and Dremel, but with modeling clay it looks like I have at least .075 clearance for the connecting rod.

Is that enough?

If so . . . . I'm set to send it to the machine shop for a .030 bore, deck, and valve seat grind. Starting to see the light with this over-snowballed project.
 
WYATT - If it's not enough clearance it'll "Clearance itself" ;-) I had a 903 Cummins in a semi-tractor I was driving take on some water in a couple cylinders thru some loose intake manifold bolts. It bent a couple of the forged steel rods pretty bad. It had a couple extra Knocks when it finally started, the damage was already done. By the time I drove the thing about 20 miles the knocks went away, It was the counterweights on the crankshaft hitting the wrist pin bosses on the two cylinders that had the bent rods. The rods also broke the bottoms off both the liners where the rods hit them.
 

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