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F
farmall gray
Guest
Steve B,
Are you familiar with making a double clutch?
It uses the stock spring, an extra disc and an extra pressure plate with the hub cut off. The extra plate goes in the middle and a 1/4' bolt with a locknut ties the 3 plates together. It isn't any harder to push that the stock clutch.
I ran one in my puller for years. Even with 26-12X12 cut 'stones it never slipped. You also have to put longer pins in the drive plate. I also reinforced the pin bosses in the driving plate.
It uses all CC parts too.
Are you familiar with making a double clutch?
It uses the stock spring, an extra disc and an extra pressure plate with the hub cut off. The extra plate goes in the middle and a 1/4' bolt with a locknut ties the 3 plates together. It isn't any harder to push that the stock clutch.
I ran one in my puller for years. Even with 26-12X12 cut 'stones it never slipped. You also have to put longer pins in the drive plate. I also reinforced the pin bosses in the driving plate.
It uses all CC parts too.
R
rmull
Guest
I love my SuperCub Complete Clutch, except that the clutch is too hard to push down, and I had to beef up the release arm to not bend when I push the clutch in.
I can slip it, unlike the AL only disc that Keith had in his 1000.
I would go with the super cub pressure plates & disc, and a new stock cub spring.
I looked at the double-disc setup that Todd describes, Brian Miller describes how to do it on his website, but I didn't want to get into changing the linkage and release arm due to the thicker plates/farther back than stock design
I can slip it, unlike the AL only disc that Keith had in his 1000.
I would go with the super cub pressure plates & disc, and a new stock cub spring.
I looked at the double-disc setup that Todd describes, Brian Miller describes how to do it on his website, but I didn't want to get into changing the linkage and release arm due to the thicker plates/farther back than stock design
I use a clutch spring from Brian Miller.
it is half of a New Holland cultivator spring and
is a 500lb spring which is twice as much as stock sping.For a disc I use an all aluminum disc. It all works great and isn't really much harder to compress than stock.
http://members.com/pullingtractor/clutch.htm
it is half of a New Holland cultivator spring and
is a 500lb spring which is twice as much as stock sping.For a disc I use an all aluminum disc. It all works great and isn't really much harder to compress than stock.
http://members.com/pullingtractor/clutch.htm
Dave -- a guy some years back put a V8 in a cub hydro and had to do some rigging to turn it the right direction.
Kraig you remember that ? It's the 327 aluminum valve cover engine. There wasn't much detail disclosed about it.
Kraig you remember that ? It's the 327 aluminum valve cover engine. There wasn't much detail disclosed about it.
Ok engine gurus -- I checked the valve gaps on my K301 , the exhaust was within one or two thou so I left it alone but I couldn't find a gap in the intake so I set it at .008". I then went to the points since once before they had got down to a .003" gap when it ran and didn't have any power. (same thing yesterday when I tried to mow - bogging down bad) When I went to open them up a little since they were to close again the .020" was at the end of the travel. I then tried to start it and it still acts like it has to "wind up" before it'll start hitting. It never did get fully running for the 30 seconds that I cranked it. I pushed against the points with my thimb to get the fire to flying better but it still wasn't wanting to start. This thing use to start in about 5 revolutions. So I'm thinking that the timing is off so far that the points are at their full adjustment - or - the cam or points push rod are wearing down. I'll have to wait until bright daylight before I can try to check the timing.
The funny thing is that I bought the 2166 because I was tired of having to work on the 127 all the time. Well the belt is broke on the 2166 and so am I so I'm back to turning wrenches that I can't hold on to.
Anybody that'll get me back to mowing gets a FREE cup of black coffee ! Wimps need not apply because this offer is only good for BLACK coffee : A Man's Drink.
The funny thing is that I bought the 2166 because I was tired of having to work on the 127 all the time. Well the belt is broke on the 2166 and so am I so I'm back to turning wrenches that I can't hold on to.
Anybody that'll get me back to mowing gets a FREE cup of black coffee ! Wimps need not apply because this offer is only good for BLACK coffee : A Man's Drink.
Ken, is that puddle still there that you dip the water for the coffee out of?
Hmmm... a 327 you say? Hmmm... just-so-happens that one of the engine's I'll have here in my shop next is a PAIR of marine 327s with transmissions... and they're counter-rotating (one's left, the other's right)... I could plop one'a those in, and not hafta do any fancy rigging... they're pretty strong motors, too...
But I digress... Right now, I'm just trying to determine if this diesel will smoke the hydro unit under plowing and pulling conditions. The brochure is nice, but what they don't say... is what happens when you exceed the recommended power input levels... do these things melt down inside, or do they come apart... or do they just stop pushin' the tractor?
But I digress... Right now, I'm just trying to determine if this diesel will smoke the hydro unit under plowing and pulling conditions. The brochure is nice, but what they don't say... is what happens when you exceed the recommended power input levels... do these things melt down inside, or do they come apart... or do they just stop pushin' the tractor?
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Dave-
Does it really matter? I guess I'm thinking that you'll probably run out of traction before you have hydro-overpowering issues IMHO..
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
Does it really matter? I guess I'm thinking that you'll probably run out of traction before you have hydro-overpowering issues IMHO..
<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>
Ken, are these the photos?
D
dvogt
Guest
If it did ever hook up you'ld have a pile of garbage unless you spent some bucks on a carrier & axles that would take the hp. its nice for show but thats about it.
Ken point rods can wear down or a groove can get worn into the cam also. maybe you should just pop the head off & see if your comp. release is actually working.
Ken point rods can wear down or a groove can get worn into the cam also. maybe you should just pop the head off & see if your comp. release is actually working.
Kraig -- that's the pic but it wasn't a 3-2-7 it was a little bitty 283. (sorry Dave)
Here's the scoop as it was posted:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Here are the specs on the V8 powered Cub Cadet that was pictured last week just as they came to me.
>Model 129
>Gear box on drive shaft 2 to 1 reduction
>Custom front axle (would nearly roll over when reved up)
>283 Chevy roller cam and Edelbrock intake Intended for drag car
>Power steering
>42" mower..... yes he cuts his grass with it every week at 2200 RPM
>Open Exhaust: the neighbors love him
>Home: Delaware
>has appetite for hydro's if reved very high
>Built in 1.5 weeks.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Yeah Kraig the coffee water supply (cow track) is still useable.
Don I don't think it's releasing 'cause when I was turning the crank at the PTO it would hit a "hard" spot that I barely could turn past one handed (bad hand). I'll do the easy way and use a comp tester and if it's high then it's not opening.
Here's the scoop as it was posted:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Here are the specs on the V8 powered Cub Cadet that was pictured last week just as they came to me.
>Model 129
>Gear box on drive shaft 2 to 1 reduction
>Custom front axle (would nearly roll over when reved up)
>283 Chevy roller cam and Edelbrock intake Intended for drag car
>Power steering
>42" mower..... yes he cuts his grass with it every week at 2200 RPM
>Open Exhaust: the neighbors love him
>Home: Delaware
>has appetite for hydro's if reved very high
>Built in 1.5 weeks.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Yeah Kraig the coffee water supply (cow track) is still useable.
Don I don't think it's releasing 'cause when I was turning the crank at the PTO it would hit a "hard" spot that I barely could turn past one handed (bad hand). I'll do the easy way and use a comp tester and if it's high then it's not opening.
I started the 127 and mowed the backyard. I had to hold the key for a while to keep it running even after it had started up. Everytime I let off the key it'd die. It finally ran on it's on and seemed to do almost 100% as good as it should run. I think it just had to sit over night and have some time to think by itself. "now if I don't run like I'm suppose to that krazy fool will take that 8 pound sledge to me like he did that poor computer out here one night" The 127 runs ... the winderz 95 doesn't.
(Message edited by kweaver on April 21, 2004)
(Message edited by kweaver on April 21, 2004)
KEN - Don't sell those 8# & 16# sledges short on being able to fix stuff! My Uncle told Me the owner of a truck dealership He delt with used to haul livestock for hire. He also sold a truck to another livestock hauler but this Other truck never ran as good as the one the Dealer drove, and the Dealer tinkered and adjusted and replaced parts, and adjusted and still couldn't get this other truck to run with His. So finally He removed the entire carb. for about the fifth time, sat it on the sidewalk next to the drive into the shop, grabbed the sledge and SMASHED the carb sending bits flying clear across the street. He went around picking up all the pieces into a box to return for warranty replacement and got a new carb off the parts shelf to get the truck back on the road. The new truck still didn't run QUITE as good as the dealer's but VERY close! My Uncle actually saw this happen.
The guy I cast / weld antenna parts for was coming here one night so I burned a cd of my melting cast iron in my propane blast furnace so that he could see it. The only way he can get around is in one of those electric mobility chairs so I took the '95 puter out to the shop and was watching the mpeg when he came. I went to start it back up and 4 times it said there was no cd ... crash boom bang ... you should have seen how big his eyes were ! My theory is "if it doesn't earn it's keep it doesn't stay here" ... now the puter power supply runs the stepper motor and drive circuit I made up to operate my surveilance camera as a "pan" funtion. The RAM doesn't fit any of my other puters
The floppy drive was toast as well as the HD from the jolt.
Engine's bored & honed, valve seats cut, guides reamed and the next step is to get the rotating assembly balanced.
After that, it's all the "cubic dollars" portion. When doing many of the parts as new and not recovered from parts engines, as well as new fasteners there's a lot of busywork and purchasing that'll go on. Some of the new parts yet to get are a cam, tappets, breather, coil, brackets, voltage regulator, and a special aluminum clutch driver adapter.
-Also- aquired a "sample" of assembly lubricant from a salesman I know, anyone suggest using this vs engine oil, perhaps just use it on the cam lobes?
(Message edited by wcompton on April 25, 2004)
After that, it's all the "cubic dollars" portion. When doing many of the parts as new and not recovered from parts engines, as well as new fasteners there's a lot of busywork and purchasing that'll go on. Some of the new parts yet to get are a cam, tappets, breather, coil, brackets, voltage regulator, and a special aluminum clutch driver adapter.
-Also- aquired a "sample" of assembly lubricant from a salesman I know, anyone suggest using this vs engine oil, perhaps just use it on the cam lobes?
(Message edited by wcompton on April 25, 2004)
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
Wyatt,I use assembly lube whenever I rebuild an engine,good stuff.
Steve B and Ryan M>> I set up a Super Cub clutch in my daughter's 1282 stocker with 25HP Kohler. You can set the spring tension a lot lighter by using the split collar on the driveshaft. It goes at the rear of the spring and allows you to adjust the spring's compressed length. (Use this collar in place of the spring pin thru the driveshaft at the rear of the spring) Super Cub's red spring can then be used perfectly in an everyday situation. My daughter (then 11yrs old) can easily depress the clutch yet it NEVER slips. If you want to try one in a tractor already assembled(Ryan) just order some 2 piece split collars from Grainger for the 5/8" shaft.
Steve B and Ryan M>> I set up a Super Cub clutch in my daughter's 1282 stocker with 25HP Kohler. You can set the spring tension a lot lighter by using the split collar on the driveshaft. It goes at the rear of the spring and allows you to adjust the spring's compressed length. (Use this collar in place of the spring pin thru the driveshaft at the rear of the spring) Super Cub's red spring can then be used perfectly in an everyday situation. My daughter (then 11yrs old) can easily depress the clutch yet it NEVER slips. If you want to try one in a tractor already assembled(Ryan) just order some 2 piece split collars from Grainger for the 5/8" shaft.
Jim-
I had considered just using the lube on the cam, then just using engine oil on hte rod bearing and on the cylinder, probably clean out the grease from the bearings then let them sit in oil until assembly time. How far do you go in using it?
I had considered just using the lube on the cam, then just using engine oil on hte rod bearing and on the cylinder, probably clean out the grease from the bearings then let them sit in oil until assembly time. How far do you go in using it?
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
Wyatt,as you said,cam lobes obviously,plus the cam support shaft,the cam followers etc. Use engine oil on the conn. rod and crank journal,as well as the cylinder wall and piston/rings. I use the assm. lube on the lip of the crank seals too,just a light amount so they break in without a dry start.
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