B
bmckibbens
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That is what I needed, thanks
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sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I got looking at the Super Cub catalog tonight, checking out their clutch parts......
The billet steel pressure plates caught my eye, as did the red spring and lock collar...about $80 worth of stuff. Then I got thinking, if I have my pressure plates surfaced ($10-15), pay for a new TO bearing, clutch disk, and probably driveshaft from MTD I won't be too far from the $$$ that Julian gets for a complete clutch with the billet paltes, 3 puck semi-metallic disk, red spring, lock collar, TO bearing, TO arm, driveshaft etc.
Now, the big question, is the billet steel 3 puck clutch disk assembly worth the +/-$75 extra cost for a stock 14hp (fresh) driving 10.50 Titans in 2nd pulling a 12" plow??????
Seems to me like you get a pretty good deal on Julian's complete clutch.
Comments????
The billet steel pressure plates caught my eye, as did the red spring and lock collar...about $80 worth of stuff. Then I got thinking, if I have my pressure plates surfaced ($10-15), pay for a new TO bearing, clutch disk, and probably driveshaft from MTD I won't be too far from the $$$ that Julian gets for a complete clutch with the billet paltes, 3 puck semi-metallic disk, red spring, lock collar, TO bearing, TO arm, driveshaft etc.
Now, the big question, is the billet steel 3 puck clutch disk assembly worth the +/-$75 extra cost for a stock 14hp (fresh) driving 10.50 Titans in 2nd pulling a 12" plow??????
Seems to me like you get a pretty good deal on Julian's complete clutch.
Comments????
R
rmull
Guest
Steve- The 3puck plate is awesome...I think it is the biggest reason the clutch is so good. You could put a stock spring on there, and it would still hold in situations where a stock clutch would slip.
If you do end up going with the heavy spring, even if you back if off as Jim described, I would beef up the release bracket.
And you can plow in 3rd gear with that clutch...
If you do end up going with the heavy spring, even if you back if off as Jim described, I would beef up the release bracket.
And you can plow in 3rd gear with that clutch...
I talked with a few people at Plow Day regarding a 12 horse rebuild. Some said it could be bored for the same piston as a 14 horse, some said not to do it because the bore would distort more easily.
Opinions?
This would be an engine that would be used for plowing, blade work, etc., in my "soon to be former 109". I got the engine from a sponsor, knowing it had a broken rod.
The connecting rod is in at least five pieces. That's as far as I got yesterday. The crank pin has some ugly on it, but I haven't had a chance to mic anything yet. Piston looked pretty much like the one posted on the forum a while back, with the gouges above the rings near the exhaust port. Maybe after I get a chance to measure, I'll know more about my options. I know from previous discussion that I want to use a better rod than the stock Kohler. I'm kind of thinking of the one David Kirk used in his article above.
Opinions?
This would be an engine that would be used for plowing, blade work, etc., in my "soon to be former 109". I got the engine from a sponsor, knowing it had a broken rod.
The connecting rod is in at least five pieces. That's as far as I got yesterday. The crank pin has some ugly on it, but I haven't had a chance to mic anything yet. Piston looked pretty much like the one posted on the forum a while back, with the gouges above the rings near the exhaust port. Maybe after I get a chance to measure, I'll know more about my options. I know from previous discussion that I want to use a better rod than the stock Kohler. I'm kind of thinking of the one David Kirk used in his article above.
R
rmull
Guest
I too used that rod in a K301A, but would recommend a balance job...the motor would cause some vibration at low idle, but I didn't have it balanced, or have balance gears. (one dropped, causing the need for rebuild)
Punch it to 14. With the little work you are going to be doing, it should be fine. If you were mowing with it, I would say get a different block. But, why did you not just buy a 14 (or 16
) to begin with?
Punch it to 14. With the little work you are going to be doing, it should be fine. If you were mowing with it, I would say get a different block. But, why did you not just buy a 14 (or 16
D
dvogt
Guest
The Super Cub clutch is nice since you can really slip it if you want & it will still hook up.
Bruce. you can take a 12 to a 14 bore but use cation , they are not the same block, measure down between the cooling fins to check the thickness of the block before you start boring. We had a stocker that was bored to a 14 pop the jug off after 2 or 3 years. it wasn't to much speacial because you could still use a starter/gen to start it.
Bruce. you can take a 12 to a 14 bore but use cation , they are not the same block, measure down between the cooling fins to check the thickness of the block before you start boring. We had a stocker that was bored to a 14 pop the jug off after 2 or 3 years. it wasn't to much speacial because you could still use a starter/gen to start it.
Don -- didn't you tell me once that the K301 had to be bored off center because of the wall thickness ?
Steve -- 3 puck disc works on drag strips , just remember it wont slip as easy under load as a stocker so watch out for wheel stands or twisted shafts. Hammer down !!
Steve -- 3 puck disc works on drag strips , just remember it wont slip as easy under load as a stocker so watch out for wheel stands or twisted shafts. Hammer down !!
kweimann
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- Kenny Weimann
Don,
Does anyone offer custom pistons for the K Series?
I have a 14 hp block that was gouged and when all was said and done cleaned and honed to +.0333 oversize. I've checked a few pistons and all the .030 over ones I've measured (just below the oil ring land, 90 degrees from the pin) are 3.520 or thereabouts, too small to get the recommended clearance of .007-.010. I'm afraid the extra .0033 will cause a slap and don't want to risk it. The walls are pretty thin and I've seen too many cracked jugs from sleeved 14's. Any suggestions? Thanks, Kenny
Does anyone offer custom pistons for the K Series?
I have a 14 hp block that was gouged and when all was said and done cleaned and honed to +.0333 oversize. I've checked a few pistons and all the .030 over ones I've measured (just below the oil ring land, 90 degrees from the pin) are 3.520 or thereabouts, too small to get the recommended clearance of .007-.010. I'm afraid the extra .0033 will cause a slap and don't want to risk it. The walls are pretty thin and I've seen too many cracked jugs from sleeved 14's. Any suggestions? Thanks, Kenny
kweimann
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- Kenny Weimann
Don, Wyatt,
Only 'cause the set of rings I have don't look like the instructions; regarding the top and second rings, I know the chrome rimmed ring is the top with the id chamfer facing up, but the second cast iron oil ring doesn't have a scraper groove on the od, just an id chamfer. I usually install all second rings chamfer down. Any thoughts? Thanks,
Kenny with a 1250 owner waiting for an engine.
Only 'cause the set of rings I have don't look like the instructions; regarding the top and second rings, I know the chrome rimmed ring is the top with the id chamfer facing up, but the second cast iron oil ring doesn't have a scraper groove on the od, just an id chamfer. I usually install all second rings chamfer down. Any thoughts? Thanks,
Kenny with a 1250 owner waiting for an engine.
Kenny,
The Kohler manual recommends ID chamfer "up" (towards the piston dome) on the second compression ring.
The Kohler manual recommends ID chamfer "up" (towards the piston dome) on the second compression ring.
kweimann
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- Kenny Weimann
Thanks Dave,
Where in the manual? The TP-2379 manual? I can't find it in mine, it just says follow the included instructions. That's what I get for using aftermarket stuff, but ALWAYS a genuine Kohler Rod.
Kenny
Where in the manual? The TP-2379 manual? I can't find it in mine, it just says follow the included instructions. That's what I get for using aftermarket stuff, but ALWAYS a genuine Kohler Rod.
Kenny
Kenny,
I dug the piston ring info out of an older Kohler service manual, numbered ENS-575. Picture and description on page 11.2. The newer manuals eliminate this information for some reason.
I dug the piston ring info out of an older Kohler service manual, numbered ENS-575. Picture and description on page 11.2. The newer manuals eliminate this information for some reason.
Being hindsight's 20/20 . . . . I'm wondering if I should have safety wired the nuts on the bolt pattern holding the spiral bevel ring gear on the fine-spline carrier, rather than just cutting the bolt flush with the nut and staking each nut in four places.
Should I take it back apart and safety wire things or is staking the nuts on more than enough?
Should I take it back apart and safety wire things or is staking the nuts on more than enough?
D
dvogt
Guest
in our rearends all we do is use lock nuts with locktite.
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
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Wyatt,don't worry,it'll be fine the way you did it.
kweimann
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- Kenny Weimann
Don, Wyatt, Dave,
On Brian Miller's site he says you can overbore a 14 to fit a 16 piston and still use the 14 crank due to the fact that the piston weighs the same. I have a 14 with a +.0333 bore on it. Has anyone tried this before? Kenny
On Brian Miller's site he says you can overbore a 14 to fit a 16 piston and still use the 14 crank due to the fact that the piston weighs the same. I have a 14 with a +.0333 bore on it. Has anyone tried this before? Kenny
D
dvogt
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Brians site is incorrect as far as fitting a 3 3/4 bore in a 14 block. We did a few 3 5/8 and you get dangerously close to the head bolt hole at the one side of the bore. in fact we had some headgasket problems at first due to lack of area.
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