IH Cub Cadet Pulling and Hot Rodding

dkirk · Aug 9, 2004

Dave K(2),

I don't think it really matters. There should be ample clearance between seal lip and inner race such that they won't interfere with each other.

The trend in small engines was to use shielded ball main bearings with shields facing inward. This protected bearings (in theory) from metal chips and contaminants getting kicked up into the raceways by the splash lubrication system. Shields proved to be unnecessary, both from a protection guard and added expense, so they were eliminated. I always rebuild using the unshielded variety. As Scotty would say, "Shields are down Cap'n".

dkirk · Aug 9, 2004

(Message edited by dkirk on August 09, 2004)

dkirk · Aug 9, 2004

The Lakeshore Garden Tractor Pullers Association put on a great quarter scale pulling event this past Sunday in Eden, WI. As promised, I snapped a few of the action. I apologize for not knowing people's names so maybe Jim Diederichs can help with those details.

The Diederichs' camp - some awesome Cubs!

I even brought my 1250 along to experiment.

dkirk · Aug 9, 2004

Fortunately, I parked close to Jim D. and his crew. They were very helpful in giving me advice and loaning washers to get my chain clevis located just right on the hitch.

I really learned alot from Matt Diederichs, a fine young man and excellent driver. Me being a novice at this, Matt gave some great tips that I won't forget. Here he is on his nice looking and great performing Cub.

dkirk · Aug 9, 2004

Under the bonnet of Jim D's Turbo Diesel - an engineering masterpiece! Runs and sounds great.

This one's still for sale guys.

The new track was nicely prepared and surface was as close to perfect as can be had.

More to follow over next few days.

dkamp · Aug 10, 2004

Great GTP Pix! Thanks Guys!

Assembling this K241 with a Stens connecting rod... to make the new rod clear the pan, it looks like I hafta slice about half the dipper off... anyone have some 'precise' measurement of correct dipper length?

Also- the rod uses cap-screws instead of studs and nuts. Kohler's torque procedure says overtorque by 20%, then back it down to correct torque... doesn't note any type of threadlock compound. Is this technique valid for the Stens rod with capscrews? Is there a reason why one wouldn't want a dab of blue loctite?

dfrisk · Aug 10, 2004

Dave When I rebuilt My K241 years ago I had to cut the oil flinger on the cap down some, maybe 1/4 inch. I ground & filed until it JUST cleared the bottom of the pan without the gasket. Then I installed the pan WITH gasket. Must have been O-K since the engine has 1200 hours on it and still runs well. Not sure on the Stens rod bolts but I'm interested in the answer You'll get because I have a new Stens rod in a K-181 I freshened up earlier this summer but haven't fired up yet.

dvogt · Aug 10, 2004

Dave never put anything on a rod bolt except whatrs recomended. you don't know what it does to the actual torque on the bolt. your wrench may click at 30 ftlbs but it could be more or less. I've never seen any engine have loctite on the rod bolts. I torque the stens rod to the same specs as kohlers unless they have a note in with the rod saying different

dkamp · Aug 10, 2004

Okay, well, I used a Snap-On torque wrench with dial-indicator needle. Book specs said something like 280 inch-pounds, with a 20% overtorque first (that's something like 340 inch pounds) so somewhere around 25 and 23 ft-lbs respectively.

I borrowed the Snap-on, as my beam-type just isn't precise enough in that low-a-range, so I'buy an inch-pounder this evening. Looks like I'll be workin' on a few more Kohlers, so the investment will be worthwhile. Also gonna make a custom adapter-bracket so I can bolt a Kohler to my outdrive workstand. I don't mind using an engine stand, but my outdrive workstand has a totally flat base, an integral drip-pan with catch reservoir, so no mess, no tripping, and it's fully adjustable!

htoler · Aug 10, 2004

David K..
I have read your rite up on your killer Kohler,, didnt realize that was you that wrote that,, any ways you would never be able to pull a stock tractor with an engine built up like that in the pulling club here , to them stock means stock the engine can be bored up to .030 and you can use an inserted rod,, other than that not much you can do to one other than change the gears in the rearend,, no polishing porting or anything like that allowed, engine has to meet all stock specs..
but like what you did will probably use a lot of your ideals when I rebuild one..cause its gonna push snow and possibly even some garden work..
your tractor and engine look great..

dkamp · Aug 10, 2004

Okay, this is rather perplexing...
I'm installing this K241 cylinder head. When I pulled it apart, I photographed the locations of the studs... there were only two installed. What I DIDN'T photograph, was the order of hardware (spacers, nuts) as they came off.

IIRC, it was missing a stud or bolt, as a result of PO's partial disassembly... he installed a service replacement motor, and borrowed some stuff, removed some of the tinwork.

So... studs go in which locations, and do I put in the stud, then washer, then nut, then spacer, then tin, then nut?

wcompton · Aug 10, 2004

Here's the pattern I have on my ring & pinon set, it's not Prussian Blue, but rather the developer spray from my crack checking kit. It's a little deep, but not too bad.

I did use shims (2) .030, .015, and .006 on the carrier side, and just a .015 shim on the gear side.

dkirk · Aug 11, 2004

More pictures from last-Sunday's pull in Eden, WI.

Matt Diederichs in action.

Good wheelie action.

Sorry, but I don't know names here.

dkirk · Aug 11, 2004

Cub Cadets were in abundance and were top performers.

dkirk · Aug 11, 2004

dkirk · Aug 11, 2004

Some of the wilder creations. All lovely machines.

The turbine powered puller made an appearance. Initial problems have been sorted out and it put on an impressive, full pull performance. Sounds like an F-16.

dkirk · Aug 11, 2004

I believe Don Vogt built the engine for this tractor. Don put a last-minute tweak on the carburetor to sharpen up the engine prior to launch. There's Don in the right side of the photo with a bandaged foot.