IH Cub Cadet Pulling and Hot Rodding

[wcompton]

Here's the "notches" that I had to make to give clearance to the rod. Wish I had a nice little die grinder about now, but since the piston won't cross the area I figure as long as there's no sharp edges I'm OK. It's all ready to go for machine work.

 

[dvogt]

Looks good Wyatt

 

[wcompton]

Thanks Don-
Think the recommended piston-bore clearance for the JE pistons should be a little more for a continuous-use engine vs. a pulling engine that may not get as warm?

 

[dvogt]

I don't know about losening the clearence. Remember pulling engines don't have any cooling at all. I think if you were carful with your breaking procedure you could leave it as recomended. you could also call J&E tech line . they mayu be able to shed some light on it

 

[kweaver]

What makes my K301 act like you have to wind it up before it starts ? It takes 5 minutes of cranking before it starts hitting then more cranking before it takes off ? I had a K241 on a welder like that once. I got tired of killing myself wrapping the rope , pulling , wrapping the rope , pulling ... I'm thinking compression relief ?? Both engines seem to have high enough compression like the relief is closed.

 

[dkirk]

Ken W.

I had this problem with my K301. I was running an aftermarket cam that specified a lash of .014 on exhaust. Less lash holds the exhaust valve open longer when the ACR is functioning. The valve can be just seated about the time spark occurs (20 deg BTDC) and the effective compression stroke is about zip. Resulting power stroke is wimpy, and if your churning additional loads (like a hydro) in cold conditions, all that occurs are false starts. I would check the exhaust valve lash and be sure it's at .018. If problem persists, try setting it at .020. If this doesn't work, the ACR is probably in need of a tweak.

Nice to have you back posting again.

 

[kweaver]

That's the same engine that at one time started loosing power even though it ran good. Everything was fine until it got loaded down ... culprit = points had moved to .003" gap. When I did a "quick" rebuild on it a few years back I just pulled the rod / piston and honed it and washed with gas and put in new rings and top / bottom gasket. I feel more confident tearing into a small block Chevy for a total rebuild than I do about small engines. I guess it's time I tear into one of the 3 - K301's for a total rebuild and put an 11:1 forged TRW and a redesigned recast head on it with tunnel ram and nitros ... gotta keep up with my buddies new 25 horse.

 

[farmall gray]

Ken,
I have one that acts like Dave said. It also
has a reground cam in it. I had to tweak the ACR
but I didn't tweak it right. It has the right amount of lift, but it is happening too late.
I'm going to tear it down this summer and put another ACR tab in it. It is acctually realeasing too much compression, leaving the power stroke too weak to carry it over.

 

[rmull]

Wyatt- How is your motor coming along? Quite interested in your progress as I want to rebuild the K321AQS in my 1408, and am interested in adding some of the upgrades that you are doing as well.

What do you have in mind for the tranny?

 

[wcompton]

Ryan-
Motor's out getting bored, intake guide reamed, decked, and I think it's getting a 3-angle valve job, might be done already but I don't know yet. Once that's back, then I'll be able to take the piston and the rest of the rotating assembly to get balanced. Big thing I'm going to try to get in line is the exterior, the carb I'm using I think is from a KT-17, whatever it is Don went through it and said to use it. Just in case I've got a 1" #30 carb off a K341.

As for the tranny, I'll be using a custom gearset from SuperCub, late model Cub Cadet differential and axles. Tranny's got an overdrive gearset, I'm wondering if it'll have a tendancy to twist the topshaft but from the #'s I've run I think it'll be OK, just for insurance I used my Magnaflux dye penetrant kit and it looked OK. The transmission is from a veeeery early 70, somewhere in the 65,000 or 66,000 range. The internals looked very good, even had both forks in fine shape.

I've found that ideas for side projects abound, but one thing I'm tempting myself to do is make a Cat-0 3-point setup just like Brinly made for another garden tractor. In the interest of getting it complete I'll just be using the IH 3-point plus Brinly sleeve hitch adapter for now.

 

[rmull]

My plow tractor is getting worse about popping out of gear under load. I believe this is due to the forks being bent.

Do I need to just pop the top cover, bend the top slots back together and then run a bead of weld along the edge to fix the problem?

 

[aaytay]

Ryan-
Whatever route you decide to go, make sure you don't drop any of those lockwashers!

 

[still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782]

Ryan,you can do that but also check the capscrews that bolt them to the shift rails. They are often loose enough to allow the fork to move on the rail,which allows alot of movement so the thing'll jump out of gear under load. Retighten them making sure the forks are as straight as possible.

(Message edited by jdiedrichs on April 10, 2004)

 

[dvogt]

another thing to keep in mind. the gear drives do have a problem in poping out of gear. even in our PS/SS tractors which have very heavy shift forks, hard top shafts & brand new gears with very little leading edge chamfer they will still pop out of gear. you almost need to preload the shfter lock to keep them from coming out of gear. more hp and the more traction the worse it gets.

 

[sblunier]

OK, here's the goal:

100% "daily driveable" wide frame gear drive with a fresh/strong 14hp and a clutch that won't slip.

Engine's taken care of, what can be done to the clutch and keep it "daily driveable"?????

I already plan on trueing the pressure plate surfaces in a lathe to clean up any factory welding warp.

Is there a "daily driveable" performance pressure spring????

Any other ideas????

 

[bmckibbens]

are there any pictures of the components of a cub cadet model 70 transmission that any of you have?

 

[dvogt]

one thing you could do since you are truing the plates. just put a new stock spring in & use a Super Cub steel button disc. you should be able to use anti rattle springs with it. you may need to make up adrive shaft. not sure but I think the super cub plate is thicker than a stock one

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brandon M., is this what you are looking for?

 

[dkamp]

Anybody have a clue what the design limits for the Sundstrand hydrostat units are;

Rpm limit (cavitation)
Torque limit (part failure, internal pressure, etc)
Thermal limit (loss of tolerance, galling, seal failure, etc)?

Were there any particular hydrostat units (NF/WF/QL/SG's) that were superior in the higher-horsepower category?

What was the biggest engine to end up in a C_C hydro?

Is there any sense in putting some kind of heat-exchanger on the hydro for extended-duration loads (like plowing) to keep the Hy-Tran from reaching critical-mass?

When you really put the screws to a hydro, what blows up first, second, and third?

I'm contemplating, and it kinda hurts now, but I'm sure that if I take a laxative, it'll pass...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dave, try this Technical Manual I believe the hydro is a "15U'.