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Yeah, the domes I could understand. I suppose it'd be the same concept as flycutting for valve clearance.
 
Wyatt , why don't you contact Aries ? they will do almost any bore with whatever pin hieght , pin size and ring package you desire. usually you wind up buying them 4 at a time. but maybe others would be interested. they are not cheap .
 
Don-
Thanks, I thought I had the rod in my toolchest but I can' find it now. When I find it I'm going to make sure that it is for sure a 6" rod, I'll probably sell it off and try to find a 5.875" rod that had one pulling season on it like the one I bought. At the power levels I'm working with 1/8" in length shouldn't make a huge differnce, especially considering the cost of the alternatives.

a 2% change in rode-stroke ratio shouldn't change much.
 
Wyatt,
I wouldn't get excited about having to go .030.
If I remember right, you are just building a plow tractor. I would think your rebuild should be good for a couple hundred hours. You are probably like me though, thinking it would be nice to be able to bore it again in the future. The 14 I just built needed .030 just to clean up. I expect to put maybe 20-30 hours a year on it. If I keep clean oil and and air filters in it, it will probably be 20 years before I have to worry about it.
 
Just out of curiousity, has anyone ever built up an L-headed boxer engine like a M18/M20, K582, KT17, KT19, or an Onan for pulling? Would seem like they would balance well and would take RPM well.
 
Todd M,

I don't mean to be sensitive, but your refernce to "just a plow tractor" kind of set my teeth on edge. We love our plow tractors. !!!
happy.gif
 
Wyatt,lots of M-18's and Onans out there pulling on gas and alky. They are quite a fun thing to listen to buzzing down the track
 
Charles,
I didn't say he was building "just a plow tractor",
I said he was "just building a plow tractor"
I didn't mean anything bad about the tractor.
I guess I should have said he was building a tractor "for plowing only"
I mainly meant that a tractor built "just for plowing"" doesn't get a lot of hours put on it compared to one used for mowing every week.
BTW, I love my "just for plowing" tractor too.
 
Jim-
Does anyone get creative with parts interchangability? I mean, the KT17 and KT19 look like they ended up being the M18 and M20. Is there any parts that also exchange, say like putting a K582 crank in an M20.

I tried looking up today to see if there was any small chamber heads that will work the same way a K241 head works on a K321. I see that some aftermarks support is there, at least Vogel's look like they regrind cams for boxer twins.

I'd love to hear one of those pull, I like the sound of those much better than the v-twins <never been a V-twin fan>
 
Todd M,

While most of my friends and aquaintances thought I'd gone crazy when they found out I love to plow, I truly believe I would have gone crazy if I hadn't rediscovered the love of plowing. CUB ON!!

I do see your point about hours on the engine. I would like to put together a 14 hp block for my 106, and while I'll primarily plow with it, it will also mow occasionaly and run a 59M.
 
Wyatt , they are extreamly rare but there is a 16 hp LP head out there. very hard to find. I've only seen one.
 
Wyatt,
Those opposed twins do sound awesome. There was one at our local pull last summer. It had a 2-into-1 header sticking out through the grille.
I'm not a v-twin fan either. The boxers are so much smoother. The commands and vaguards don't seem to have much torque compared to the magnums.
I always thought they should make an OHV opposed
twin. But it would probably be too wide to fit well in a garden tractor. I know the V-twins are more fuel efficiant and probably meet emissions
easier-but I don't like em.
I don't think much interchanges from the K-series twins to the KTs
and magnums.

(Message edited by tmarkle on February 27, 2004)
 
Engine experts,

Have you ever had an engine that knocked because the timing was off? Am I being told a “story” or is their some truth to what I’m being told?
 
Tim D.,

If you mean the spark timing being off, absolutely. Too much advance and too low an octane fuel will cause knock. Also, L-heads tend to build up carbon in the squish area of the head that the piston hits, causing a knock. If it's a high-time engine, I'd start by doing a decarb job.
 
David K.,

The points gap was about .020. I didn’t check the timing with a light, so I guess I won’t know for sure. There is some carbon build up, but not enough that it would be hitting the piston. I’ve not run into/heard of the timing causing a knock before. Learn something everyday. It was about due for a new head gasket anyway. The crank is now visiting the machine shop, and new rod is on the way.

Thanks for your help.
 
Tim D,
I had a customer engine knock because he shaved the head and decked the block so much the valves just missed the head. Too much compression for regular unleaded I guess, sounded like a diesel. Lots of nice aluminum piston flakes in there when I disassembled it. It only knocked at full throttle under load. Kenny
 
Just realized... my loader-mutt's got a K301... and I've got a K241 head in the back shed...

I'm assuming they're fairly compatible, and tha tthe 241 probably has a smaller chamber... Anybody know OTH what kind of an effect will that have on CR?
 

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