• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through September 25, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bmoore

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2002
Messages
341
displayname
Bruce Moore
From the Lake County Fall Harvest Festival Saturday, September 24, 2005
This was a "just for fun" pull they had at the festival. It got cut short due to rain and the track turning into grease shortly after the last picture shown here. It was misting, then sprinkling, then a little heavier during this series of pictures, so they look a little fuzzy. I was doing my best to keep rain off the lens. It was the first garden tractor pull I'd seen, and it was pretty neat.
I'm hoping Tom Hoffman can add to this with some description when he gets time.
I don't know who this is.
30908.jpg

Don't know him, either.
30909.jpg

Tom Hoffman moving up
30910.jpg

Another guy I don't know.
30911.jpg

This little guy in front of Tom was waiting at the end of each run to pull the roller back to the starting line. He had to stretch way out to reach the clutch, but he did a great job of manuevering, forwards or backwards.
30912.jpg

Tom underway (not underweight)
30913.jpg

Tom near the end of his last run.
30914.jpg


(Message edited by BMoore on September 25, 2005)
 
Lets see...........
The first guy is Kenny Kain. He also is the guy who made the sled.
Second guy is Ron Gratz.
Third is me. (Isin't it said that TV adds 15#? Man I gotta' go on a diet!!)
Fourth is Tim Gratz grindin' out.
Little feller is Vince Gratz.
Me again, happy as a two peckered puppy.
Me finishing up my pull.

Interesting thig about the pull. The first run I tore like nothing, that's because the weight box wasn't in gear and didn't move. Second run the same thing happened, but when I stopped (redflag) the sled was still moving and slammed into the back of the tractor. Good thing for the three point.

Don't know exactly where I placed in the 1200# class, it started rainiing pretty good right after the guy behind me. Think I did pretty well considering the smoker is totally stock. missed the full pull by 9 feet. Didn't loose power just didn't get the hydro slower before I stalled it. I would have surely gone further.

Had a blast, now i think I'm "Hooked" (play on words).
 
Lapping valves…

I see in David Ks 241 build he recommends lapping the valves after their ground (valves and seats). I believe I’ve also seen Don recommend that recently? I have been told that lapping them doesn’t do much good because when the valves and block heat up it doesn’t really contact at the surface that was just lapped. Does that statement have any truth? What is the purpose of lapping the valves if both the valve and seat have just been ground?
 
Timmy,
My .02 on valve lapping on freshly cut seats and new valves.
I opened up an NOS 16 hp short block last year and found that they were not lapped at all from the factory.
If the valve doesn't sit perfectly concentric on the cut seat, it won't have a perfect seal. But I figure after banging a few thousand times when you start the engine, it will cut a concentric ring and seal perfectly.
I still lap every time I rebuild but maybe it's just being overcautious.
Kenny
 
Kenny, I guess I just thought the seat was machined, and the valve machined, it should be a perfect fit. I guess for a stocker’ that’s where “close enough” comes into play. But if you guys say lapping is better, then lapping it is.

Thanks.
 
The valve seats & valve faces are a ground surface as opposed to a machined surface. Grinding is smoother but not as smooth as lapping. What's probably more important is the tapered angles leading to and from the actual 45 Deg. seat area itself. Refered to as a "Three Angle Valve job.
 
I still can't get over Tom's grin in the picture! Like a kid in a candy store with $20 to spend!

30996.jpg
 
Dennis,
All the NOS blocks I've seen look like they have machined valve seats, cut with a carbide cutter, similar to the Neway that I use. Can't confirm this, maybe Don can. I grind my valves with a 1940's Van Norman VALVO grinder. It doesn't look like much but is cuts sweet. I put 3 angles on all my seats. Kenny
 
Anyone know where I can get a pair of steel 26-12x12 wheels that are 12" wide?
Thanks
 
Tim D. , The aluminum Super Cub case does not have a location for a reverse. its opend up nice enough that you can put lower gears in the 2-3 location without having to grind the case out at all. anyone whos ever tried to put a 17 tooth gear in the 3rd gear location knows what I'm talking about there, I didn't have time to get more pics, I'll be getting one of them back soon to put a aluminum carrier in it. hopefully I'll have time to get some pics at that time.

Kenny I think the seats are machined into the block. I'll bet its al part of the CNC machining process they use.
 
Here's a run down of what i'm trying to do and is not working for me. I'm trying to put a 5" monster tackometer out of a car onto my pulling tractor and i'm reading only 1/4 of the rpm's does anyone know what i can to do to get an accurate reading. My pulling tractor is running a single cylinder kohler.
 
Cory you need to send it to the manufacturer to have it calirated to a single cyl. sounds like the one you have is for a 4 cyl. since it reads 1/4 your engine speed.
 
Hello....

What are the Pro's and Con's of using a Alum. deep oil pan over an deep iron pan....
The way I see it is...
Alum.:
Less weight.... but the bolts can back out and/or pull threads....
you can loctite the bolts and safty wire to prevent this(backout)...
Iron:
Heavy..... but you don't have bolt/thread problems
 
are you going to use it in a puller? I think what kills them are the rubber mounts in the quiet lines. they used aluminum pans in the 1x8 & 1x9 models and you don't see the problems you do in the QL models. I used one in a puller years ago. I drilled out & helicoiled the holes. loctited the helicoils in then lock titted studs into the helicoils and used lock nuts. they never came out while I had it.
 
Hello Don,

Yes..... this is going to be a stocker(12hp). Plan to run in our 8, 9, 10, 1150 class.
I have both type of pans and when I picked them up to put on the table.... wow there was a big diff...
I thought man you could put the saving over the rear axle's...
It is a cub cadet 128.... I am changing out the grill also....
 

Latest posts

Back
Top