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Archive through October 14, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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On my 44A mower deck, the 1 year old Gator Blades are starting to touch on occasion. I found out that the blades have a little slop, which I assumed was worn bearings. But upon tear down, it seems that the bearings are in decent shape, with only the slightest amount of play noticeable.

It seems that the bearing cups have worn where they are supposed to clamp the bearing. They haven't worn much, the holes still appear round. I searched the forum and found a few discussions about this problem. I did not find any consensus on how to fix it.

I think that the entire bearing assembly must be spinning in the bearing cups. So I need to tighten up the bearing cups. I saw references to:

1 BFH to ends of bearing cups
2 BFH to sides of bearing cups (make them square)
3 use MIG to build up worn areas in the cups
4 shims inside the cups (some of these failed quickly)
5 buy new bearing cups
6 buy new style replacement spindle assemblies

Does anyone have any success stories? What is the preferred method? I have them apart and want to repair all three.

Thanks in advance.
 
Dennis - I don't think the same manufacturer of Craftsman tools are used today. I can't point to it, but I recall seeing an article somewhere that Sears changed mfg's of their tools, rachets, sockets, etc., a several years ago. My Dad bought a nice set of Craftsman tools probably around 1970 and they have and are perfect. The newer stuff I've bought is not so good IMHO. I bought a tool set in one of these brief cases to keep in my truck and it is by Crescent. I'm sure someone else makes it - but it is a great set of tools. I use it first and then the Craftsman stuff second.

IHCC content:

I visited a Uncle of mine this weekend and he has an old 122. It is well used, but in pretty good condition and has a creeper in it!
 
Gerry Ide. Why do you keep asking me this question? I haven't a clue about what's in a blue/white tractor! Maybe Kentuck could answer your question?

I prefer the Yellow/White colors.
 
Cathleen: Doing some catching up, here. I got the cap from my cousin - he wore it in here and wore a more "stylish" (not my style) hat out.
Dennis: It was a 4-door sedan Skylark if I remember right. Don't even know where it went and it was just 40 years ago that I was driving it! I remember having to put a rebuilt transmission into it (cost me about a $320 income tax refund) ;)
Got to go get the Cub Haulin' trailer registered and ready for Wednesday.
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I think I will wait for us to get back on topic
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Mike: Misunderstood this post you made: "Did I tell you guys that I pulled the motor from the 169 and set it into my new Ferd 1600???"... I actually read it as "Ford 160" which is a LGT... I'll have the Ford engine home tomorrow and can mike the crank... I'm taking I-75 to Florida this winter, I guess I'll have to take a side trip in Kentucky and wake the Grump up....
 
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

Just got an email from the guy who is selling a 16 hp Cub . He sent me this number 5210231
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Where did he get that number? Thanks Don
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Don that is a September of 1974 serial number and is in the correct time frame for 169 production....go get that thing...NOW


Kraig you are correct and it was a ontopic jump start
 
Ken Freeman:
#3 worked for me - I've done it with MIG and also with a torch and brazing rod , which was actually a little easier to flow out and build up without excessive amounts of material..
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Don the tag should say 2050048U..then you 5210231
I think he stuck an extra number in there because there should be only 6 digits.

and if you aleready know all this my appoligies
 
Gerry Ide: I apologize for flaming you last night.

I don't have good luck with the search function because:

1. It doesn't return enough <u>context</u> to learn the topic of a particular post. I notice that it deletes certain words like articles and abbreviates others, I can't make any sense out the lines it returns, I have to open up each one, find the post on the page and read it to determine if it suits my needs.

2. The search <u>prioritizes results</u> based on the number of "hits" in a particular page stored in the vault, so for instance, if I search on "hour meter" and someone has written a post on voltmeters that generated several responses with the word "meter" on the same page, it will come up ahead of a page with a very pertinent post of an "hour meter" in it. When I try searching for a phrase, I'm frustrated because, for some reason, the search function and I have different ideas on how to build a phrase. The long and short of it is that what you find is "creative" searching I find "arduous" and unproductive. I really don't want to have to search for something hidden behind a dimly understood, awkward interface, when I can leave it in a place where I can find it when I need it WITHOUT searching.

By-the-way, your search function will turn up my posting in the Machine Shop if you include all sections in your searching, so its not like I'm keeping information hidden from you.

3. The <u>software</u> used in this Forum also does not allow us to title our posts, nor does it allow us to add "tags" to them, so again, the only choices available to me are "post-and-search," "post-and-copy" to my hard drive for personal use and future sharing (a method which works only as long as I manage to keep my machine running and maintain a backup of my data [I recently lost access to my stored IH/CC data for over 90 days, and it could well have been forever]), --OR-- the path I chose, start a new thread, which I can't do on the Main Forum, so I started one where I thought best, in the Machine Shop.

I'm not sure about the FAQ route for this project. First of all, we're not talking about a routine maintenance or service procedure like adjusting your hydrostatic transmission or swapping out your voltage regulator, we're talking about information that an unscrupulous person could use to break the law. As Charlie posted, it is illegal to reset an hour meter on agricultural equipment for the purpose of misrepresenting the number of hours on it. I'm not sure there SHOULD be a FAQ on it, because frankly the question is not "F"requently asked, it only comes up occasionally. Jeff asked about it, and I remember someone else posting about it a few years ago.

Regarding your suggestions on repair and resetting: I will have to try the careful application of <u>kerosene</u> to see it would free up the works of my meter. I can't just drop the whole thing in for a "sonic" cleaning because (1) the face is riveted to the movement, and (2) the electric portion is embedded in plastic and attached to the back of the movement. The plastic portion might be removed though, I will have to investigate further. I think it simply forms the final layer and is secured to the three "posts" just like the other "plates" in the movement.

The <u>hands</u> could probably be moved as you say, but I would let someone with more knowledge and tools perform the operation. I own a timepiece with hands that simply won't stay attached to the stem no matter how I crimp them, I used to play around with clocks as a child, and I know they can be "ruined" by overly aggressive manipulation.
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Jeff Baker: After pondering your question about re-assembly, I realized that if I had it to do over again, I would try to cut the bezel at 90 degrees, parallel to the LENGTH of the housing. That way, the unit could be re-assembled with a small screw-clamp or other cinching mechanism. It wouldn't be "original," but if done properly it wouldn't be too noticeable and the cognoscenti would realize that it had been reset, so you couldn't be accused of "tampering" in such as way as to mis-represent the age of the tractor. (An enterprising person might even come up with a way of soldering the aluminum outer ring.)

Just a thought.
 
jeff l baker

Well thanks , I could not make sense of the number either. Seems he has a 552 special with a 16 hp briggs. I think I will pass on it. I got excited when I saw the 16 hp tractor lol. Thought it might be a 169 , but no luck
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KEN F. - I had one spindle in my 50C deck that the bearing was O-K, but the housing was worn and letting the blade wobble around and cut at an angle to the ground due to belt tension. To get that spindle running properly, I bought the new top & bottom parts of the bearing housing, also a new waterpump bearing & half-moon key for the drive pulley. Cost $170 about 1-1/2 yrs ago for ONE spindle.

I saved the old parts, going forward I think deforming the bottom part of the bearing housing would allow the housing to grip the outside of the bearing and reduce the amount of new parts required. I think clamping the bottom part of the housing in a vice and deforming it would be better than beating on it with a hammer. You could weld a bead towards the bottom of the housing but I'm sure you'd have to grind it to fit properly. I tried brass shim stock and it worked O-K for a couple hours of run time, maybe 5-6 hours, which for me was two mowings.

BILL J. - I think Danaher was the old maker of Craftsman hand tools. Not sure who they're using now, but I agree, quality has suffered. Good thing Sears is now "Brand Central". My luck with Craftsman power tools has been terrible, luckily I've only had a couple given to me as gifts.

Here's a home page for the co that owns the Crescent brand now, http://www.apexhandtools.com/

I've still got several "crescent wrenches" that say "Made by the Diamond Nail & Horse Shoe Company".
 
Anyone want to save me the trouble of looking up the coil connections on a quietline? Specifically the condenser goes to which side of the coil positive or negative? Recently did the cradle mod. on my dual control hydro 1650 this weekend and spent large amounts of time investigating a no-spark issue on the new engine. Replaced coil, condensor, points, wiring harness, etc.... Traced issue back to a faulty connection on the points lead that connects to the coil. Cut off old lead and re-crimped a new connection on and then I had spark! Here are a couple of pics of my 1650 which is now a 1450. (replaced dash as well because it was cracked from previous owner)

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You may also note I upgraded the tie rods to Heim Joints
 
Rob: Negative side (same as the points wire).
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Frank,

Thanks for the reply. I was going to check my other cub in the shed, but was pretty frustrated after searching for the no-spark condition. The tractor idled for 15 minutes yesterday, guess we call that breaking in the new rings!
 
Ken-

If I understand you correctly I had a similar problem with an OT deck. The part numbers were right for the gator blades but there was a slight amount of play/space where the hole was a tad bigger. I actually peened and flattened some wire and made very small spacers that took up the "slop" and worked well. The spacers looked like rings for your fingers. They were a little tricky getting fitted into place but once there the washer held them in.

Hope this helps.
 

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