Archive through October 05, 2009

[mstetar]

first of all update on the 149, i got a new solenoid from NAPA and put it on, it cranked, but i had the carb off so i didn't try and run it, i put the carb on and hooked up the jumper cables and nothing, but the voltage meter went all the way to charge, i was lost for a minute but when i saw and smelled smoke i disconnected the negative from the other tractor, the smoke came from a juper the PO put in the brake sensor. i rewired it thinking it shorted, long story short didn't pay attention and put the jumper cables on backwards i ruined the battery in the 71 i was using to jump it and it think burned up the new solenoid... don't ya just love those days!

in other news the neighbor gave me this... anyone got a guess as to what it is to? or how i could rig it for a cub?

i also got these in the mail the today!

 

[jmuncie]

Matt, that's a hiller/furrower. The way it's assembled in the picture, it would make a furrow. Install the moldboards so they roll the soil toward the middle and it will make a hill. This is for use in soil that's already tilled up and loose. Judging by the toolbar and attaching wedges, I'd say it's a Brinly piece. The sleeve hitch mounted cultivator that's fairly common uses the same setup. If you have a sleeve hitch on one of your tractors, you could modify that toolbar to mount on it.

 

[wmiller]

Paul, The service manual for that series,illustration #2-43 or #2-48 seems to show that the rod has a bend in it. I had my 147 apart awhile back and mine was bent like that. After pondering tha situation,I left it alone. Maybe someone else has/had one of those apart and can confirm whether theirs is bent.

 

[wmiller]

Paul, Oops! Should be 2-43 or 2-84, sorry!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hmmmm,

 

[rwilke]

Jeff Baker,
Since none of your listed Cub engines are of the 'dual tube' variety, which oil dipsticks do they have? Either:
(A) the long tube, S/G side,
or
(B) the short tube, points cover side?

Do you know which, if any, of your listed engines have or had balance gears?
If so, please indicate which do (Y) or don't (N) or don't know (DK).

To make it easier, simply reply in this fashion:
CC108, A, DK
CC128, etc.

Thanks!
Ryan Wilke

 

[dross]

Ryan I helped a guy go get a 129 Friday, it only had one dipstick, the short one on the cam gear cover. I have no data on it but since the duel dipstick came up, I think it's the first one I've seen that just had one there. We're gonna have that motor out tomorrow I'm wondering if it has the B gears.

 

[lhinds]

Paul; I have a 147 and a spare hydro for a 127 and both rods are bent like yours.

 

[bnolte]

Wayne,
Thanks for not taking our advice at face value, it really WOULD take a lot of force to bend the rod like that in a linkage application.

Matt S.
Jerry's decription of the plow is correct, but I like to call it a potato plow. If you set it up so it digs down 4 to 6 inches, you can dig up a row of spuds lickety split. Setting the moldboards apart and inward, you can use it to hill your spud plantings.

 

[pvanbenschoten]

Thanks for all the notes on the bent Neutral return rod.

I have the service manual, but I have been looking at the parts manual for part identification. If I have any more questionable parts, I will check both manuals.

 

[rwilke]

David R.,
Cool! -- keep us posted on your progress and your findings!

If possible, write down these data:

1) Cub model #: 129
2) Tractor Serial #:
3) Engine Model #:
4) Engine Spec #:
5) Engine Serial #:
6) Type/location of dipstick tube(s): Short, at points cover, LH side
7) Type of engine data label (sticker/riveted):
8) Balance gears? (Y, N, or Don't Know):
Ryan Wilke

 

[whecht]

Hey guys I havent posted in awhile been busy at work. I have a qustion on my 109. The lever for the foward and reverse is real loose I think it is woren out down by the frame there the rod goes into the lever down by the tranny. Do they make a rebuild kit for this?? Any help would be grateful.

 

[jbaker]

Ryan
129 B, DK
128 B, DK
108 A, DK
1200 On top starter side, DK
will tear down 128 this winter in hunt for balance gears

 

[kmcconaughey]

Willis, are you sure it isn't just the friction adjustment that's out of spec? Here are some pages from the service manual, note that there are two versions, so you'll have to check your SN to verify which version you have.

 

[bnolte]

Kraig,
Thanks for posting the detailed procedure on the lever friction adjustment, there are two types of friction mechanisms on the 1x9 tractors, I had to switch from one type to the other when I initially redid the 129 a few years ago.

Willis,
You are going to want to look for slop in the rest of the linkage as well, the link between the hydro lever and the swashplate has replaceable ball joints, but the trunion assembly itself tends to wear out and make the tractor unable to hold a steady speed after a while. Check out the FAQ here at:

http://wwww.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HydroProblems.htm.

It will tell you all you need to know to make your Hydro work like new again.

 

[kpecor]

105 Issue... My tractor runs fine most of the time, however the charge indicator will peg all the way in the charge zone. I shut the tractor off as I have burned up two wiring harness (this maybe why as it is a mystery to me still). Does anyone know what is happening with my tractor. Snow season is coming up and I need her in tip top shape... Thanks a bunch...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kevin, sounds like the voltage regulator may be in need of tweaking.

Here's some info.

 

[kpecor]

Thanks Kraig... You are the MAN!!!

 

[kide]

I've had the charge rate go into the "red zone" on nothing more than a bad ground on the battery to frame connection- had the regulator halfway out of it's hidey hole before I noticed the bad ground -it'd still start OK, too... I also noticed the other day that even with a brand new, fully charged battery, that for the first 15 seconds or so, the generator charges at almost full rate...
Under Edit..
I'd be puzzled over burned up wiring harness's - if the connections are going to the right place, then you're asking a light (weight) wire to carry the current that a heavy weight wire is supposed to handle.. I know I've had a mysterious situation a couple of times where the regulator points stuck and was feeding the S/G through the charge wire, which is fairly light duty - If I hadn't caught it right away, it would have smoked that wire (I shut the ignition off and the S/G just kept on crankin'..a couple of taps on the regulator fixed it..).

 

[etourjee]

I was at an old tractor show this week end and an older gentleman said I should be adding a lead additive in the gas for the older kohler engines to protect the valves and the valve seats. I have been running older cub cadets with kohler engines for 4 years and I have never added any lead additive to the gas. All I have been using is unleaded gas and I have not had a problem.
My question is, Should I be adding some type of lead additive to the fuel for the older kohler engines?
If so, what kind of additive or brand.