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Archive through May 07, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Albert Cubeta (Acubeta) on Thursday, May 07, 2015 - 03:35 am:

My 1977 1450 cub stalls out after about an hour of use. I let it sit for about 15 min and it starts right up and runs great for another half hour and stalls again. it is not overheating. I love this girl but she is driving me crazy. Any ideas to fix would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Al<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">Albert, does it just quit or does it start to stumble and lose power before it quits? I'll suggest a possible solution to this question you asked about your 1450 in a different area of the forum. It is most likely that the condenser is failing as it gets hot. However the symptoms you are experiencing could also be a failing coil or even a plugged vent in the gas tank cap. One other thing it could be is a sticking exhaust valve.</font>
 
Wayne - geez, I sure hope you don't go dumping her into the bottom on al ole pond. I should have given credit to Charlie's suggestions as the best to start checking first. I lean toward that condensor as being the top/easiest to check, then the coil then the other stuff, and then the PTO field coil. I'm hoping your pond dries up real quick (and thanks for pointing out my typo on Mick vs. Mike).

Apologies to Mick M - your oil seal and PTO failure info it good to know and first I heard of the oil actually effecting the PTO itself.

Albert C - hope you're looking at this page of the Forum and follow Kraig's suggestions. (Kraig - are you learning from Charlie
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Hydro, learning what?
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I had a run in with a bad condenser about 18 years or so ago. Symptoms were it would run fine for about a half hour then stall after stumbling like it was running out of fuel. After about 15 minutes it would start right up and run for another half hour. I checked fuel flow, spark plug, some other stuff all was as it should be but still had the symptom. But when I swapped out the condenser all was well with it again.
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Kraig - that was a plug for Charlie. We know he knows all the good stuff but limits his sharing to time in between shipping and stocking shelves
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Wayne

If I were you I would check the coil and replace it with a known working from a tractor . Sure can`t hurt at this point.
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Thanks Don-

I think that's exactly what I will do next. I'm using a 1450 with a smoking engine for parts to a degree. I've had electrical issues with this tractor off and on for a while. Maybe everything is just coming to a head at this point. It's such a strong running machine when things are right.
 
Wayne - if you're going to replace the coil on that 1450 Quiet Line tractor try to avoid taking the coil mount bracket completely off that side tin plate cover. It can be a real pain to get it back on. I think you can just loosen the nut holing the coil and slide the coil out but you might have to also unhook the regulator thing close by
 
Gerry I - are you still lerking around? Little while back there was some comments on Dave Calkins rebuilding a tiller gearbox. I had never seen anyone else post about doing it and I think you said the same. I got a couple pics from Dave of the gearbox he's rebuilding and nearly done. The job is not for those weak at heart.

On the first pic you can see a couple sprockets that Dave had to cut off the shafts, get new ones, and weld them onto the shafts. He actually had to make at least one maybe 2 new shaft as well. And all new chain, and all new bearings. About the only thing that isn't new is the case holding the gear box. I believe Dave said it was 1/8" steel and still good.
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Harry-

I have dealt with several QL engines/coils and they can be a pita. I hoping the coil change does it.

Don-

Happy BD! (tomorrow...and you know how I know)
 
L.I.B. as we say down here in the south. The coil change did it. Thanks to all with input. I feel like I'm a hell-of-a-mechanic as long as I have parts to change out.

The 1650 is running strong once again.

Gotta go till now...later!

.
 
Oh Harry-

I did the pto lead disconnect and it didn't do anything that I could tell..except not start.

Those pics of Daves tiller box are impressive. We don't see that very often here.

Thanks anyway!

.
 
On the tiller gear box chains you should not use a master link they will come apart reuse the standard link after using a chain breaker then put back in the correct length and re peen the pins.
 
Way to go Wayne...sometimes it's easy and sometimes it's not...always lots of good help on here....put the tiller in the ground!!!
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Wayne, good to hear swapping the coil fixed your 1650.
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Harry, Thanks for the open tiller chaincase pictures. They have been elusive. Good to see what it looks like in there.

JH
 
I LERK quite ofteN, Harry, just don admit ithe very often.... Thanks for posting those pics
 
I LERK quite often Harry, just dont admit it very often.... Thanks for posting those pics
 
Charlie - must be the spell checker on here. Is "lurking" correct? I should have said is Gerry hiding in plain plane site?

Mike - what makes you think the master link will come apart? Seems if they used one to begin with it should work again for another 50 years. It has all new sprockets

That tiller box is apparently packed with grease and doesn't require greasing according to the manual but Dave is adding a grease zerk which actually shows in one of the manual or parts pics but is not originally there.
 
Wayne Shytle

Glad the coil change was worth the effort. btdt oh and no I do Know of what you speak. hbdty !

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