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Archive through October 06, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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hey, I have a cub cadet 100 also with a lever next to the shifter. would that be the creeper gear. When it is pushed forward and the trany is put in gear, the tractor moves. When the lever is pulled back and put in gear, I get a grinding noise and the gears dont catch. what could be wrong.
 
On the subject of Marvel Mystery Oil…I’ve been in the engine business for 30 years now and during this time have been privileged to a great deal of test data on various lubricants, oil additives, and other associated products. During my tenure with Mercury Marine, we tested oils and additives for both two-stroke and four-stroke engines. Claims made for power and economy improvements by reducing friction were all proven bogus by careful dynamometer testing under controlled conditions. Those expensive products containing Teflon were particularly interesting in that they did absolutely nothing for performance. Synthetic lubricants, such as Mobil 1, would show slight gains in performance mainly due to the ability to run a lighter viscosity oil safely without oxidation occurring. The synthetic oils were legitimate, the other products were not.

There was one product, however, that was unique and did what its makers claimed…that was Marvel Mystery Oil, commonly referred to on this forum as MMO. Intended as an oil or gasoline additive, it has the ability to soften hard carbon deposits that tend to form in air-cooled engines. Particularly vulnerable to carbon induced problems are exhaust valve stem-guide seizures, piston ring sticking, and carbon build-up at the top of the cylinder bore and combustion chamber area. The high temperatures in which an air-cooled engine operates (compared to the liquid-cooled counterpart) seem to be the root cause of this type of deposit fomation. Due to the additives in MMO, these deposits are softened and are washed away by either the crankcase lubricant, or are carried out by the exhaust gasses. There have been instances where an oil-burning engine was “reconditioned” by MMO, simply by freeing up carbon stuck piston rings. Exhaust valve sticking can also be reduced or eliminated by using MMO mixed with the gasoline in the ratio stated on the bottle. On a new engine, or one that’s in good condition, a steady diet of MMO in the fuel is an excellent preventative for any carbon-related problems that might occur during the operational life.

Probably the best recommendation for MMO comes from aircraft A&P’s (airframe and power plant mechanics) who highly recommend it. I talked to one guy who wrenched for a freight operator, flying Douglas DC-3’s. He claimed their engines (Pratt & Whitney R-1830, 14-cylinder, 1200 HP air-cooled radials) would always make their TBO (time between overhauls) without incident, due partly to running MMO in the fuel. This impressed me.

MMO has proven to work well in the Kohler K-series engines that power our Cubs. My two get a steady diet of it in their fuel, mixed at the recommended ratio. As an added benefit, the exhaust gasses smell quite nice.
 
I have removed the 3 set screws in the pto and the 2 set screws for the starter pulley. Now how do I get them off the shaft?
 
Trying to remove the front PTO on my 100. Removed the 3 set screws, Pto won't come off. Any tricks or suggestions..
Thanks Joe
 
Hi Roland,

Thank you. I've visually inspected in operation all linkages that lift the deck. All seems fine. Can you point me to the rockershaft and rockershaft arms?
 
Ed H.
Two large pry bars on each side and walk it off or a large bearing puller will do it, provided you have presoaked it really well with PB Blaster or Kroil.

Joe D.
There's 6 set screws, 3 on top and 3 under those.
Take a peek here for futher details to really get ya confused! BTDT
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
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The PB Blaster/Kroil thing applies here too.
 
Charlie, the wireing diagram for my 147 showes a safety switch in series from ignition sw to start solenoid. Any idea where it is/was? Think previous owner put the kabash to it.
 
Allen the switch is under the tractor and is activated by a lever on the brack pedal shaft. Many times the lever breaks and will not contact the switch. The lever is a piece of spring steel that snaps over a pin in the shaft.I have seen many tractors with a jumper wire bypassing the switch.
 
Finally got around to unloading part of the load!
Pretty solid little ZIG ZAG grill 107
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Super #2 Tiller
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And the mower is really nice,
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And then there's the BEAST! I have not seen one of these in ages, brought back a lot of memorys.
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If I had known you were making a run Charlie, would have had you bring back the couple I have setting out there in a barn, just waiting!! Thanks a lot Dude!!!
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Lyle,
Well open yer pie hole and tell me where they are at and I'll snag'um for ya.
I'm always ready for a road trip!
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IN FACT, I'm headin out again in the morning for a run across the border. A guy up around Kenora Ontario has 6 Cubs that he needs GONE! NOW!
So, have trailer will travel will be the order of the days ahead.
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Is there a complete decal set for an original ? I finished most of my paint work today and need to order them , I am hoping to get them from a sponsor. I am also having trouble finding a belt that goes from the engine to the drive clutch assembly . Any ideas/help is greatly appreciated
 
I used my new lawn aerator today. It was on sale for $109, or so, at fleet farm this summer. It did a pretty good job. I did need to load it down with 300 lbs. of weight to punch through the harder dried dirt that I have been driving over with the RV.
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When I parked the cub in the garage I noticed the pedal didn't pop back up. After further inspection I noticed a busted spring (#21).
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I hope we get a crap load of snow this year. I'm looking forward to using the cab on the cub.
 
I want to put rv antifreeze in rear tires with out taking of cub. i know it is made out of pvc can some one help me out
 

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