Archive through November 26, 2007

[dcurrin]

Kentuck,

Charlie,
I have enough so that when I adjust for neutral center, it either turns the wheels forward or reverse depending on which was the last direction chosen. Probably wear in the slot as well as the pin. Worse right there around neutral
I was hoping for an upgrade, but alas I guess just new parts will fix it.

Thanks
Guys

Dudley

 

[afoes]

I really appreciate this forum and all of the postings and information. I look forward to opening up this site and seeing all the work that takes place. I have acquired a #1 tiller and intend to place it on a 582 with creeper. The belt that came with this tiller is the correct part # listed in the parts look up. This belt is much smaller in size than that of belts used on the 582 belt drive. It appears I will need to change the pulley on the gear box to match the belt size used on the 582, find a belt that matches in length and size, and place a clearance hole for the rear end drain in the gear box bracket. Does anyone have any advice on making this match up.

 

[mgonitzke]

Arvin F.-

What size belt do you currently have? A 582 should have a 5/8" belt, so you should have a 5/8" pulley on the input shaft of the right angle gearbox also. A #1 tiller would have originally had a 1/2" belt I think, so if it still has that pulley, you'll need to change it. Perhaps the belt you have is extremely worn and just appears smaller. You don't need to put any holes in the bracket. I'm not sure why you think you need to, if you could post a picture of that, it would help. You'll like this setup when you are done, a gear drive tractor makes for a great tilling tractor, I just hope you have a spring assist. I'll be putting a tiller on my 582 next spring most likely.

 

[rrschmitt]

Dudley,

If your pin is significantly worn on part #1, you could remove it off the hydro unit, cut off the pin, drill out the remainder and weld in a new pin of the same diameter. Usually the pin sees the greatest amount of wear if not lubricated properly. I always put a dab of grease on the pin and in the groove at the beginning of each mowing season. Additionally put a dab on pin and tee slot for the neutral return cam connected to your brake pedel rockshaft. I've also recently learned after doing the trunnion arm repair in the FAQ's to smear some grease on trunnion spring buttons to help reduce wear on the trunnion arm slot. Yes, the grease will collect some dust but it sure keeps things operating smoothly and reduces wear on the moving parts.

 

[kmcconaughey]

My Killer Kohler is done, my Killer Kohler is done! Whoo Hooo!!

 

[dtanner]

Hello all, i hate to ask but is there a way that i can tow my 100. i got a O and a 100 that won`t start grrrrrrr

 

[dcurrin]

tiller related question.
A #1 turns in same direction as tires going forward.
pushes tractor forward when tilling.
A #1a turns opposite direction???
Pulls backward/against tractor when tilling??

I have a #1.
Have played with it but no real need for it came in a package deal.

Could I drill out old pin and Press is a Dowel PIN.
Or am I just moving the wear to different point?

Cheers
Dudley

 

[dfrisk]

RYAN - I have the governor set @ 3800 rpm no-load so wide open is right around 3600 with the most load I can throw at it. Compared to the K241 that was in this tractor the very low end is a bit weaker, say below 1200-1300 rpm but after that the extra bit of duration on the K361 cam really wakes the K321 up.

CRAIG - I'd go ahead is use the information Dave Kirk lists in the Killer Kohler write-ups. Since I live close I even had Dave balance My K321 and it runs smoother than the K241 I had in the tractor before. All Dave's suggestions either add performance or durability or both. LOT of good information in the write-ups. You page down on the last page of the forum and You'll see His Kohler for Kraig.... When I saw that engine about a year ago the piston had cracked & broke at the bottom oil ring groove and needless to say needed "work!"

 

[tbordeleau]

1450 PTO blowing fuses:

I searched the archives and FAQ, but couldn't find anything specific to my problem. My 1450 started blowing fuses after mowing for 10-15 min, and not necessarily in tall grass. I replaced the wiring from the fuse holder to the PTO, thinking that it must be an overload DOWNSTREAM of the fuse. The new wiring stopped at the plug end coming out of the PTO itself.

But yesterday, it blew 2 fuses again, Not immediately, but after a few minutes of mulching thin leaves.

Is this a typical failure mode of a bad PTO?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, oh yeah it needed some work!

 

[mgonitzke]

Dudley C.-

That's interesting, they should both rotate in the same direction as the wheels when moving forward.

 

[cellis]

Dennis - I'm gonna go read that Killer Kohler write up and follow your advise. When I put a head gasket on it to get it to run earlier this year the head and piston top did not look so bad. Alot of ring wear but otherwise nothing appeared to be busted.

Kraig: What you have there is what Microsoft would call a "removeable piston crown feature"....

 

[tdoyle]

Kentucky, That tractor is a 1961 sears suburban made by david bradley for sears. It was david bradley's first attempt at a 4 wheeled lawn mower. When you compare it to the original cub made the same year, there wasn't much to it.

 

[rrschmitt]

Dudley,

The tines on all IH tillers (#1, #1A, #2, #2B) rotate in the forward direction, trying to push the tractor forward.

Yes, you try press fitting in a new pin but I think you may still need to tack weld it on the back side to hold it in place. Getting a new from one of the many fine sponsors listed above would also be an option.

 

[dcurrin]

Matt,
that was a question? I do not have a #1a. Or perhaps it changed at a different model #.
It seems that after using my #1 that it would make more sense. Ie pulling backwards rather than pushing you ahead. more control of forward speed.
and pulling itself into the ground rather than trying to climb out of the ground.

 

[dcurrin]

oops,
guess i should have waited 20 seconds

 

[dtanner]

Hello all, i hate to ask but is there a way that i can tow my 100. i got a O and a 100 that won`t start grrrrrrr

 

[rrschmitt]

Ted B,

Have you check the gap setting on your electric clutch lately? If it's not correct, it could be dragging causing the fuse to blow. If the gap is correct and it's still blowing fuses, better pull the PTO clutch off. Check the short lead wire to the coil for any wear where it may be shorting out. Also inspect the coil for signs of rubbing or wear and exposed wires. Additionally, check the bearing for soundness and smooth operation.

 

[dcurrin]

Donald,
Tow to storage and repair or for starting it??
Hydro no tow far or fast. Gear drive stick it in neutral and drag away.
need two drivers.
OR chain and pipe to keep it all under control.
Cheers
Dudley

 

[nbextermueller]

I have another half baked idea I need some opinions on.

My wife is tired of raking leaves and I refuse to replace my beloved 128. I found a guy on Craigslist selling a 2 year old bagger system (pt# 190-190-100) for his 1050 cub. (The new plastic cub cadets)

If I could get the system to fit the back of my tractor, would it actually work? I don't have mulching blades or a fancy deck that creates alot of pressure. Any ideas would be great.

P.S. did they make a bagger system for a '74 Cub? I've never seen one.