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Archive through November 26, 2007
- Thread starter dcurrin
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
NIC B. - No collection systems were avail. for the early Cub Cadets from IH. Units like Agri-Fab or Trac-Vac, Peco, etc are available and work really well. But be warned they are expensive, Agri-Fab's are sold at Blain's Farm & Fleet around Me and they sell for $1000-$1200, Trac-Vac's are even more.
The later model collection systems probably wouldn't work real well on the older style Cub Cadet decks since they don't move enough air. I built a home-made collection system and had to modify it about 3-4 times before I was satisfied with the way it performs. Even JD found that an add-on blower was required with some of their earlier decks to pull material out of the mower and propel it into the tag-along cart.
KRAIG - That pic always reminds Me of the pistons used in the old 2-cycle Detroit diesel engines, They bolted together....few 1/4" capscrews and You could have had Dave reuse that old piston!
The later model collection systems probably wouldn't work real well on the older style Cub Cadet decks since they don't move enough air. I built a home-made collection system and had to modify it about 3-4 times before I was satisfied with the way it performs. Even JD found that an add-on blower was required with some of their earlier decks to pull material out of the mower and propel it into the tag-along cart.
KRAIG - That pic always reminds Me of the pistons used in the old 2-cycle Detroit diesel engines, They bolted together....few 1/4" capscrews and You could have had Dave reuse that old piston!
Denny,
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
...few 1/4" capscrews and You could have had Dave reuse that old piston!<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Umm, NO!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
...few 1/4" capscrews and You could have had Dave reuse that old piston!<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Umm, NO!
KENtucky, dang why didn't I think of that?
On the other hand I think it'll last longer and run better having Dave rebuild it the way he did.
I've just spent an hour or so pawing through the archives on engine rebuilds and noticed a certain amount of controversey over rebuild "kits" in the $90 range. I had intended to buy one of these but now I'm leary of the part content. Does anyone know of a kit assembled with quality parts?
Also, I noticed that some guys replace the con rod and some don't. I'd intended to keep the old rod as I've decided not to hotrod the motor...just an ordinary refreshing. I'm open to thoughts on the need to buy a new rod.
Also, I noticed that some guys replace the con rod and some don't. I'd intended to keep the old rod as I've decided not to hotrod the motor...just an ordinary refreshing. I'm open to thoughts on the need to buy a new rod.
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Craig Replace the rod. This one wasn't hot rodded, was running good and just quit. Problem is it does a lot of damage. Just not worth the chance.
Craig - Plan on replacing the exhaust valve also. I wouldn't worry so much about finding "Cheap Parts" as I would GOOD parts. I've used mostly Kohler parts in My rebuilds but have used Stens with good luck also.
All this talk on rebuilds has me wondering, My K301A has bolts for the head. In the pic from Kraig earlier that block had studs for the head. Did Kholer use both head bolts and studs? Which is stronger, I would think that studs would be the stronger of the two
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Todd H.-
It seems the studs were used in the NF tractors, while the WF tractors used bolts, and in some cases, maybe like 2 studs. Most of mine have had a mixture of both. It depends on the application. Personally I like bolts better, but that's just me. It's easier to find new head bolts than studs around here. It's also nice to be able to remove all fasteners from the deck of the block to decarbon it. This is all pretty much my opinion though, which probably ain't worth much but, hey
It seems the studs were used in the NF tractors, while the WF tractors used bolts, and in some cases, maybe like 2 studs. Most of mine have had a mixture of both. It depends on the application. Personally I like bolts better, but that's just me. It's easier to find new head bolts than studs around here. It's also nice to be able to remove all fasteners from the deck of the block to decarbon it. This is all pretty much my opinion though, which probably ain't worth much but, hey
Dudley,
One the slop between 1 & 6 on the diagram. What I've done is weld up the pin and form to size. Then I measure the ends of the slot to get the narrowest size, then I put the plate in my large vice and squeeze (the center of slot) down to that size in the center, where the slop is. I've bought new plates that were very rough (slot) and not much better size wise.
I just did my 105 that way and had the plate and bracket drilled out and bushed for $20. They are hard, have to be heated (orange in color) then allowed to cool very slowly in sand.
What a joy to have it come out near perfect.
David
One the slop between 1 & 6 on the diagram. What I've done is weld up the pin and form to size. Then I measure the ends of the slot to get the narrowest size, then I put the plate in my large vice and squeeze (the center of slot) down to that size in the center, where the slop is. I've bought new plates that were very rough (slot) and not much better size wise.
I just did my 105 that way and had the plate and bracket drilled out and bushed for $20. They are hard, have to be heated (orange in color) then allowed to cool very slowly in sand.
What a joy to have it come out near perfect.
David
Nic, I've got a cyclone rake. Do a google search, and you will get the company's website. I ran it with my 106 this year, without any problems. I highly recommend it. If you go back a few pages, you should find a pic of my setup, I posted it on 11/24/07
Chris
Chris
afoes
Active member
Matt,
Thanks for your advice. I see what you talking about with not having a problem with the drain/fill plug. Looks like I will need to change the pulley and get a new belt.
VR/
Arvin
Thanks for your advice. I see what you talking about with not having a problem with the drain/fill plug. Looks like I will need to change the pulley and get a new belt.
VR/
Arvin
mgonitzke
Well-known member
That's a #26.
Hello all, I was playing with some original clutches today, and was wondering if anyone had ever seen one like the one on the left? Notice the hole in the steel pulley itself is bigger than the one on the right. The clutch on the right is just like all the other one's I've ever seen, the one on the left is the first one I've ever seen like that, a new bushing wouldn't even fit in that big of a hole, was there two different bushing's, or did someone machine that out bigger at one time? Also can I get new clutch fibers for these, parts look up says NLA? Thanks
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
I ran this 50C mower deck all summer on the 782 with Gator blades in a dirty environment. Just greased it and blew it out though the additional holes in the cover after every time out.
I used to open them and clean them out several times during the season but decided to give this hole mod a good test and let it run the whole season. I took the picture as soon as I removed the cover. Some grease thrown around, maybe I am over greasing the deck but otherwise it was pretty clean. Sure better than what I used to see.
I used to open them and clean them out several times during the season but decided to give this hole mod a good test and let it run the whole season. I took the picture as soon as I removed the cover. Some grease thrown around, maybe I am over greasing the deck but otherwise it was pretty clean. Sure better than what I used to see.
