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Archive through November 25, 2004
- Thread starter thoffman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
tschweizer
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- Feb 16, 2000
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- Travis Schweizer
Run a grain elevator.
I was working on the governor on my 73, and I found the Speed Control Disk would bind up when I would tighten the bushing nut. Is there supposed to be a collar or a spacer behind it to give it enough room to pivot? TIA
Last week we were talking about the 169s w/ the manual lift- I found one today- it did have the conversion, only the lift bracket for the snowblower and snowplow still had the handle type bracket on it Ill try and take a picture tomarrow. What I just tried to explain is CLEAR AS MUD, RIGHT?
Torin M,
No spacer.
Are ya sure your just not trying to squeeze things together a little to tight!
No spacer.
Are ya sure your just not trying to squeeze things together a little to tight!
Z
zfriedman
Guest
Yeah, thats what I expected. See, my friend and his buddies are even less experienced than I am with this kinda stuff. They think that just cause it has a motor and a steering wheel they can make it into a go-kart or some crazy stuff like that.
It's likely the ignition coil is still in my friends garage, they probably tore it off not knowing what it is, like most the other parts they gave me in the box o' junk.
Still, it won't kill me to buy a new one, I've only spent $1.17 so far (2 bolts, 2 nuts).
And I leave with a randomish question: Was unleaded fuel around in '65? What kind of fuel should I run in my 102, especially in the winter?
It's likely the ignition coil is still in my friends garage, they probably tore it off not knowing what it is, like most the other parts they gave me in the box o' junk.
Still, it won't kill me to buy a new one, I've only spent $1.17 so far (2 bolts, 2 nuts).
And I leave with a randomish question: Was unleaded fuel around in '65? What kind of fuel should I run in my 102, especially in the winter?
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
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- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Zach -
Did you read the Kohler manual that Charlie suggested you download?
Acceptable fuel type is listed on page 1.5 of my print version, so I'm sure it's in the PDF version.
Tyler T. -
Reprints of the tiller operator manuals (which include mounting instructions) are still available from a number of sources, including our sponsors.
Did you read the Kohler manual that Charlie suggested you download?
Acceptable fuel type is listed on page 1.5 of my print version, so I'm sure it's in the PDF version.
Tyler T. -
Reprints of the tiller operator manuals (which include mounting instructions) are still available from a number of sources, including our sponsors.
Zach- the guys alluded to, but didn't directly say- Connected in the classic Cub Cadet fashion, an 'automotive' type coil (like what'd be on a V8) won't last long in a Cub Cadet, due to what we call 'dwell'... that's the amount of time that the contact points stay closed, compared to open. Automotive coils are also wound to operate at voltages down to about 8-9 volts, with a ballast resistor wired in series with the coil's primary (low voltage) winding to keep it from burning up. Automobiles use a wire from the starter solenoid to 'bypass' the resistor while cranking. When cranking a big engine, the starter motor can pull available voltage from a weak battery way down, hence, the designers wind coils to fire well down at 8-9 volts.
The coil is a very simple device- it has two windings- a primary, that you run 12v through, and a secondary, that is the developer of 10,000+ volts for firing the plug. To generate spark, you apply 12v across the two primary terminals (the - and + posts). Current flows through the primary, and a magnetic field builds up around the coil, and the iron core. When you disconnect power from the coil, that magnetic field collapses... and when falling, flux(magnetic lines of force) fall across the secondary very rapidly, which induces a voltage in the secondary winding. This voltage is applied to the spark plug (through the coil wire on one side, and the grounded body of the coil on the other). Once the voltage across the gap of the plug exceeds voltage-per-square-inch requirements of coronal physics, fuel/air mix between plug electrodes becomes ionized, carrying 'coil current', which gets very hot, very fast, touching off the mixture.
To control the spark, we simply control current through the coil. The contact points (down in that little box at the other end of the yeller wire)short that wire to ground. That wire connects to the -post on the coil. The other wire connects to + post. when firing-time comes around, the points close (operated by camshaft and pushrod), coil flux builds, then points open, coil fires. Pretty elementary.
The function of the CONDENSER- as was noted by others, the condenser is a type of capacitor... and it connects from the coil - post (with contact points) to the right-side mounting bolt of the coil. It's purpose is to prevent the contact points from being burned-up. See, when the coil flux collapses, magnetic flux lines cross the SECONDARY (creating the extremely-high-voltage pulse), they also cross the PRIMARY... creating a pretty-darned-high voltage pulse, too. Without the condenser to act as a snubber, the undesired pulse causes a spark to jump across the contact points, burnin' 'em up.
And BTW- if that condenser is bad, or the collar or bolt aren't making good contact, you'll not only get continuous bright arcing across the contact points, the engine will start and run at idle... but as engine RPM rises, change in inductive reactance of the coil (with frequency) will cause the engine to misfire like it's got bigtime carbeurator or valve problems.
Just went through that on my 108!
Congrats on rescuing the Cub... rotate the engine slowly, and make sure the piston moves up-and-down... sometimes rods break... then Cubs get parked...
The coil is a very simple device- it has two windings- a primary, that you run 12v through, and a secondary, that is the developer of 10,000+ volts for firing the plug. To generate spark, you apply 12v across the two primary terminals (the - and + posts). Current flows through the primary, and a magnetic field builds up around the coil, and the iron core. When you disconnect power from the coil, that magnetic field collapses... and when falling, flux(magnetic lines of force) fall across the secondary very rapidly, which induces a voltage in the secondary winding. This voltage is applied to the spark plug (through the coil wire on one side, and the grounded body of the coil on the other). Once the voltage across the gap of the plug exceeds voltage-per-square-inch requirements of coronal physics, fuel/air mix between plug electrodes becomes ionized, carrying 'coil current', which gets very hot, very fast, touching off the mixture.
To control the spark, we simply control current through the coil. The contact points (down in that little box at the other end of the yeller wire)short that wire to ground. That wire connects to the -post on the coil. The other wire connects to + post. when firing-time comes around, the points close (operated by camshaft and pushrod), coil flux builds, then points open, coil fires. Pretty elementary.
The function of the CONDENSER- as was noted by others, the condenser is a type of capacitor... and it connects from the coil - post (with contact points) to the right-side mounting bolt of the coil. It's purpose is to prevent the contact points from being burned-up. See, when the coil flux collapses, magnetic flux lines cross the SECONDARY (creating the extremely-high-voltage pulse), they also cross the PRIMARY... creating a pretty-darned-high voltage pulse, too. Without the condenser to act as a snubber, the undesired pulse causes a spark to jump across the contact points, burnin' 'em up.
And BTW- if that condenser is bad, or the collar or bolt aren't making good contact, you'll not only get continuous bright arcing across the contact points, the engine will start and run at idle... but as engine RPM rises, change in inductive reactance of the coil (with frequency) will cause the engine to misfire like it's got bigtime carbeurator or valve problems.
Just went through that on my 108!
Congrats on rescuing the Cub... rotate the engine slowly, and make sure the piston moves up-and-down... sometimes rods break... then Cubs get parked...
Hi Norm!
682... I'm pretty sure a Kohler Command V-twin will fit in there alright... check smallenginewarehouse.com and http://www.smallenginedistributors.net/... You'll find that tapered-shaft GENERATOR type motors are quite a bit cheaper, so if you don't need PTO, or are willing to get an adapter to the appropriate shaft size, you could get a good deal. There's even an EFI 26hp Command Pro out there... :-}
Zach- re. fuels- I'm assuming your concerns are in regards to the former use of TetraEthyl Lead (TEL) in 'leaded' gas prior to the mid '70's... and the modern use of Ethanol (gasohol). No worries about no-lead gas- K-motors run low compression, and have hard-enough valve surfaces and plenty of lash, so they don't burn up very easy.
Ethanol-blend is typically a concern for fuel systems that don't take to Ethanol- many older plastics and rubbers (floats, gaskets, tanks) were easily etched by Gasohol. You may find that your carb needs a rebuild... introduction of ethanol blend may make the carb leak, but seein's how yours has been sittin', a carb kit, and the labor to break down, clean out, and reassemble is a good investment in any event. Hakuna Matata, dude!
682... I'm pretty sure a Kohler Command V-twin will fit in there alright... check smallenginewarehouse.com and http://www.smallenginedistributors.net/... You'll find that tapered-shaft GENERATOR type motors are quite a bit cheaper, so if you don't need PTO, or are willing to get an adapter to the appropriate shaft size, you could get a good deal. There's even an EFI 26hp Command Pro out there... :-}
Zach- re. fuels- I'm assuming your concerns are in regards to the former use of TetraEthyl Lead (TEL) in 'leaded' gas prior to the mid '70's... and the modern use of Ethanol (gasohol). No worries about no-lead gas- K-motors run low compression, and have hard-enough valve surfaces and plenty of lash, so they don't burn up very easy.
Ethanol-blend is typically a concern for fuel systems that don't take to Ethanol- many older plastics and rubbers (floats, gaskets, tanks) were easily etched by Gasohol. You may find that your carb needs a rebuild... introduction of ethanol blend may make the carb leak, but seein's how yours has been sittin', a carb kit, and the labor to break down, clean out, and reassemble is a good investment in any event. Hakuna Matata, dude!
Tyler & Zach,
We'll give ya two thumbs up for having the guts to tackle youor projects, Just read the manuals, don't listen to the guys that have never done it and you'll be just fine.
We'll give ya two thumbs up for having the guts to tackle youor projects, Just read the manuals, don't listen to the guys that have never done it and you'll be just fine.
N
nkoch
Guest
My first post, but I've been reading for months.
I don't want to say too much.
Seems as if there's a hazing process for the newbies!!
I can remember when I tried to get my first engine going, we probably all do.
Good Luck Zach, everyone has to start somewhere, with something. Don't get intimidated!
I don't want to say too much.
Seems as if there's a hazing process for the newbies!!
I can remember when I tried to get my first engine going, we probably all do.
Good Luck Zach, everyone has to start somewhere, with something. Don't get intimidated!
Neil K,
"Don't get intimidated!"
"Seems as if there's a hazing process for the newbies!!"
Strong words for a JD owner don't ya think?
I think Tyler and Zach will do very well as long as they don't listen to people that don't have a clue how an engine runs, don't ya think!
"Don't get intimidated!"
"Seems as if there's a hazing process for the newbies!!"
Strong words for a JD owner don't ya think?
I think Tyler and Zach will do very well as long as they don't listen to people that don't have a clue how an engine runs, don't ya think!
Larry S.
I dunno what everyone else's opinion is, but I posted mine over in the MTD/CCC section, since I dint know what month of 1981 yours was.
(Message edited by cproctor on November 27, 2004)
I dunno what everyone else's opinion is, but I posted mine over in the MTD/CCC section, since I dint know what month of 1981 yours was.
(Message edited by cproctor on November 27, 2004)
Z
zfriedman
Guest
I did read the full manual right after posting my last message, for some reason I didn't expect it to be there, even though every other device with an engine I have owned has that exact info. A mild beating is justifyable.
Mr. Kamps explanation really gets the ignition coil thing down tight. I'm guessing I have the original condenser. Is the condenser the kinda part that would break after 40 years? And I'm still wondering what someones motive would be to remove the ignition coil...the ignition coil seems like a simple and therefore long-lasting part. If in fact my condenser is bad, would that fry my coil to extinction?
As for my carb, how do you guys feel about Walbro v. Kohler. I have Walbro. It seems like Walbro is much more presicion oriented, which is good and all, but presicion means delicate which means broken, considering the guys I got my tractor from.
I've never used ethanol fuel blends, but I have come in contact with it.
It seems the farther away you get from (my hometown) D.C. the more usefull people get, thanks for the help all. Now I'm goin off to get parts.
Mr. Kamps explanation really gets the ignition coil thing down tight. I'm guessing I have the original condenser. Is the condenser the kinda part that would break after 40 years? And I'm still wondering what someones motive would be to remove the ignition coil...the ignition coil seems like a simple and therefore long-lasting part. If in fact my condenser is bad, would that fry my coil to extinction?
As for my carb, how do you guys feel about Walbro v. Kohler. I have Walbro. It seems like Walbro is much more presicion oriented, which is good and all, but presicion means delicate which means broken, considering the guys I got my tractor from.
I've never used ethanol fuel blends, but I have come in contact with it.
It seems the farther away you get from (my hometown) D.C. the more usefull people get, thanks for the help all. Now I'm goin off to get parts.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
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- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
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- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Torin -
I moved your post to the appropriate place. Please take a close look at our main topic page - IH Cub Cadet Haulers - there's a subtopic in there just for having your stuff hauled...
I moved your post to the appropriate place. Please take a close look at our main topic page - IH Cub Cadet Haulers - there's a subtopic in there just for having your stuff hauled...
Tyler, Zach, Neil;
Welcome.
Like Charlie (Digger) said, having the courage to tackle a project is step one, but you do need the manuals. When I started participating here a couple of years ago, I didn't know what questions to ask. Reading the manuals at least lets you ask questions about unclear procedures and concepts, and helps ensure everybody's speaking the same language. Hazing seems to be reserved more for people who have been here a while.
Everybody learns different ways, but some of the most valuable time I have spent learning about what I have is by going to a couple of the Plow Days, a couple of shows at area fairs/festivals, and visiting some of the forum members when I happened to be in their area. There's a wealth of information available from members with knowledge about engines, transmissions, electrical stuff, PTO's, hydraulics, history, implements/attachments, or any other detail about a Cub Cadet that you could want. Keep reading, search for prior posts on your subject, and be amazed at the talent and knowledge to be found here.
By the way, don't worry if your brain hurts after reading some of Dave Kamp's posts. He's a good guy, but I think his brain works kind of like the secondary ignition circuit he was describing. Something triggers it, and everything is discharged at once.
Welcome.
Like Charlie (Digger) said, having the courage to tackle a project is step one, but you do need the manuals. When I started participating here a couple of years ago, I didn't know what questions to ask. Reading the manuals at least lets you ask questions about unclear procedures and concepts, and helps ensure everybody's speaking the same language. Hazing seems to be reserved more for people who have been here a while.
Everybody learns different ways, but some of the most valuable time I have spent learning about what I have is by going to a couple of the Plow Days, a couple of shows at area fairs/festivals, and visiting some of the forum members when I happened to be in their area. There's a wealth of information available from members with knowledge about engines, transmissions, electrical stuff, PTO's, hydraulics, history, implements/attachments, or any other detail about a Cub Cadet that you could want. Keep reading, search for prior posts on your subject, and be amazed at the talent and knowledge to be found here.
By the way, don't worry if your brain hurts after reading some of Dave Kamp's posts. He's a good guy, but I think his brain works kind of like the secondary ignition circuit he was describing. Something triggers it, and everything is discharged at once.
