• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through November 05, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Richard P.-

Um, the driveshaft on a hydro had better be turning anytime the crankshaft is turning....
 
Lonny, Your not unique in your thinking, the factory did it but I can't remember what model it is. I know I've seen the parts list for it.
 
Matt S.

I have my share of gear drives, a 100, 72, 582special.
Hydros are a 107, 127, 383, 3235
I currently have those Bolens wheel weights on my 72 with the FEL.

This old 127 has not liked to start in the cold winter months and it makes it very hard to use for snow removal dutys when it does not want to start up.

That is the reason behind wanting to install a clutch in the driveline.

Start motor, let it warm up, engauge the clutch thus engaging the hydrotransmision.

Just wondering how much trouble it is to convert.
 
An excerpt from the Disconnect Clutch install info.

180659.jpg


Weight box photos.

180660.jpg


180661.jpg


180662.jpg
 
Hey Charlie,,, Nice of you to yell while you were doun here!
 
Anybody help... How do you take the auger out of a QA-42A snowthrower? I took the end bearing retainer bolts out and the shaft collar set screws out but nothing will move. I assume that I need to slide the collars and bearings inboard. Are the collars just rusted or are they welded to the shaft? Thanks!
 
Dan, there is an eccentric collar on the bearing, you'll need a punch and a hammer to remove it. Step one is to locate a hole in the collar, NOT the setscrew hole, the hole I'm referring to will only be 1/8" or so deep and is not threaded. Once you locate the hole place the punch into the hole and tap on it, start lightly if it doesn't move, you may be driving it the wrong direction. If you look closely at the hole, you may be able to see the indents from when it was installed, if so, that will be an indication of the direction it was rotated to install it. The proper installation would be to rotate the collar in the same direction as the normal operating rotation of the shaft that the bearing is installed on. Make sense?

BTW, welcome!
groupwave.gif
 
Lonny,
I was wondering (that is, if you have an unheated garage but access to electricity) to throw an old electric blanket over it when snow is expected. I have considered using a space heater, but except for possibly a Delonghi oil filled heater I wouldn't feel save leaving it unattended. It might just give it the edge it needs on those cold mornings.
 
Lonnie:
Have you tried a block heater on the hydro (I know it can be a problem if you've got things hanging off the back of the tractor, but it made my 129 crank as fast as it does in the summer with a new battery).
 
DAVE ROSS - Yes, that little "H" shaped support for the drive sprocket on the QA-36/42 snow blowers is aluminum. Pretty common for the shaft & sprocket to wear into the sides of the casting and destroy the needle bearings supporting the shaft.

I paid $90 for My QA-36 ready to mount on a WF tractor in about 1983 or '84. I paid over $150 for a new casting, drive sprocket, roll pins, needle bearings, zerks, etc. to get the blower running again in about 1994. Much to My surprise My local C/IH/CC dealer had everything in stock!

Got ALL the leaves chewed up Wednesday & Thursday. 72 ran like a Champ! Drop the deck & mule drive today and put the sleeve hitch on, hook up to the lawn aerator this AM and go about poking a Couple MILLION holes in the yard this afternoon! It's ALL about "Seat Time" right?
 
Fellas,

I'd think twice about using an old electric blanket to keep your Cub warm during the cold season.
I was just reading that it is estimated that 5,000 fires per year are caused by faulty electric blankets, of which 99% are believed to have been caused by blankets 10 years or older.

If you're planning to use your Cub in the Winter to plow or blow snow, I'd say the starting issue is a small problem compared to the bigger issue of snow compaction and ice formation that occurs all over the tractor from working it in the snow, then parking it and the warm tractor melting it and then eventually cooling and freezing EVERYTHING into a block of ICE!
crazy.gif


I never did figure out an easy way to combat this issue.
1a_scratchhead.gif

<font color="0000ff">How do you guys that have been plowing and blowing for years combat the "tractor icing up" issues?</font>
dunno.gif


Ryan Wilke
 
Dennis, was thinking about converting my pull behind core aerator to sleave-hitch combination next year, is this what you did & if so do you have any photos yours?
 
Ryan,
I just clean it off when I park it and haven't had a problem with anything icing up since.
 
Paul,
I converted my pull type to connect to the IH 3 point hitch and it worked great (for a while).

180682.jpg


But I'm converting mine back to a pull type. I should have taken a picture, but I was too busy trying to figure out a way to fix it when it tore the three bolts out of the cast rear on my 782 while I was aerating last summer.

I was able to use enough remaining threads to seal the cover plate on the back of the hydro, and I opted for the Aaron Schmidt cat 0 3 point for attachments from now on. I tried to use it with the new 3 point, but I don't have down pressure so I can't get the plugs deep enough without adding more weight than the tractor can lift.

So I'm planning to add transport wheels that I can raise with the rear hydraulic ports, then I'll add enough weight to pull plugs as deep as I want.

As a side note, with the " Xtreme Hitch" style mount that Aaron sells, I probably wouldn't have any problem running it the way it was when it broke. One of these days I'm going to make up a few of those to put on my tractors. Ever since I've worried about tearing those bolts out of another tractor.
 
Ryan W My shop is fairly new ,with 6" insulated walls & 12"+ Blow'n in the attic. Better than the house & garage has! It stays comfortable when the temps drop, I just turn the thermostat on/up...if needed. I do have magnetic Kat's 300 watt heater I can use if the need arises to get the mini Diesel motivated.I installed a Clutch Disconnect pkg on the 1811, the CC I have since gave to #2 son. Trying to decide which Cub to put the Heat Hauser/ Wind Breaker on, the 882 or the 1541. The 882 is favorite & easiest to mount. OK, After Saturdays NE Iowa PD then I'll mount it back on the mini Diesel CC.
Dennis I aerated the lawn 3-4 weeks ago, just might do it again if weather holds next week since all the lawn vacing has added alot of passes over the lawn. More Cub time!!!
Shift.gif
Whoppee!
 
Shane P Looks like your aerator wouldn't work very well on turns. There is no differential action with a solid drum. Probably OK on the straight away. I raise up if there's a sharp turn even with only 2 aerator wheels per section.My aerator is 60" overall with 4-- 2 wheel hub sections.
 
UPS dropped off food for the electrolysis tank this afternoon. Thanks, Jerry!
180685.jpg
 
Shane Peterson

Jus a FINE looking 149. I just got to many fingers in the same pot.(I just hope I can make ALL my tractors look like yours> I have done the Hub Mod on my 129 loader. Here is my 149 today.
180689.jpg

but I did 1
180690.jpg

beerchug.gif
old.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top