Archive through May 23, 2013

[bjamison]

Charlie - quick question, what does "disk quota error" mean...

JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!

Now the real quick question - I'm searching the parts look-up for the three carb screw sizes that hold the air cleaner plate to the carb and it doesn't show anything. Not sure for this K301 it would necessarily help as this crate engine, though it came out of a 122, has a walboro carb and I would think the parts look-up would be for a carter carb. Question is - would anyone know the thread size for these walboro specific screws and their length? If I know this info, maybe I can find some at the hardware store tomorrow.

 

[lhinds]

Bill I think the screws are 10-24X3/8. Same as the points cover.I like to use torx or allen head screws for this and the points cover.

 

[jjsmith]

I got the new iso mounts installed in the 1650 today. Not pleased with the amount of vibration it still has, though much less than with the experimental shock bushings. I got new lock nuts and set then to about 1 thread protruding through the nut. I did play around with them some but ran out of time tonight. I figure they could use some hours on them before I get too concerned with it. I am happy that the mystery noise is gone and I can go back to happy cubbing.

 

[mbounds]

Bill J: The part # for the screws for the air cleaner to carb is Kohler X-140-1. Points cover screws are Kohler X-167-2.

Myron B

 

[bjamison]

Myron & Luther - thanks for the info.

Quick question - I've looked at the parts look-up and did a bit of searching. I can find owners and service manuals for these IHCC's, but haven't found a parts manual. While they are represented above on the parts look-up, there is a limit to the detail. If you are doing a 100 point restore, or in my case, just trying to get a worker going and want to get the right screw, bolt or nut - it's hard to make a list for the trip to the hardware store without a detailed parts list. Is there an online source for these? Am I staring right at at it and don't see it - I'm guilty of this on a frequent basis - LOL.

A little off topic, but somewhat related, some of my other color tractors are Wheelhorse. One of the things Toro did when they bought the tractor brand was publish GREAT parts lists - down to the nut and bolt. You can go to the Toro website and download these parts list for free. I'm just wondering if MTD makes the same available for IHCC's?

A few 126 observations:

The 12 hp engine, without the balance gears - which I took out, seems extremely smooth and pretty quite.

Need to learn the shift pattern. Different than my other color tractors.

2nd gear seemed fast compared to my other color tractor's 2nd gear. Kind of looking forward to mowing in 2nd gear to see how the quality of cut is and how the 12 hp handles a deck full of grass going at that speed. It ought to help speed thing up when mowing.

Clutch and brake on the same pedal. This is different than what I'm use to - not bad at all, just different. My other color tractor has a clutch pedal on the left and a brake pedal on the right.

I like the constant speed of the gear drive. My yard (and the yards I mow) is bumpy and hilly, so with any hydro, I tend to have to keep my hand on the lever to keep a constant speed when going up/down.

 

[wsdrake]

Hi all, it has been a while since my last post. I have been very busy finishing my sophmore year in college. What a year. Any way, I am wondering what it would take to install a creeper drive on my 108? It doesn't have one, and it would be very useful i think. If it is really difficult to do, i won't bother, but if it isn't too bad, i'd like to try it. Thanks for your help.

 

[digger]

Billy D.
It's just a matter of removing the drive shaft, finding the score mark and cutting it off.
Bolting up the creeper and putting the drive shaft back in.

 

[digger]

Bill J.
You get get'um by clicking the Binder Books button above and ordering a TC-113 and a TC-157.

 

[jchamberlin]

In the archive through May 20th, Brian Branstetter wrote: "This is the KT Series II but there pretty close to the same other than there ignition systems, right?"

Wrong.

The Mag 18 has a different flywheel (incorporating the magnet to trigger the magneto and a different rod design, I believe it's called a "Posi-lock" rod, and it does NOT interchange with the rod in the KT17 motor.

I also know of at least one change to the design of the valves, from a 30 deg to a 45 deg seat angle during the M18 production cycle (all this information is available in the Kohler manual for the M18, complete with S/N cut-offs for each modification). Anyone can download the respective manuals from the Kohler website, although it does take some "kicking" to access the right page on the Kohler site.

To the moderator and owner, I realize that the M18 was never installed in a tractor made directly by IH, but I responded because of the association made between the KT17 and the M18.

 

[wshytle]

Bill, Luther-

The points cover does take the 10-24x3/8" screws but the carb is suppose to have 10-32x3/8". However, I have seen all sorts of screws connecting the breather cover to the carb including a few 10-24s.

The two lower carb screws can't be any longer than this because they will jam the choke shaft (BTDT).

McMaster-Carr has these screws but I believe you have to order a box of 100.(???).

 

[lhinds]

Thanks Guys.

 

[rbeem]

Frank C. & Brandon,

"Brandon: The tubes keep the fluid from possibly rusting the rims. I personally prefer wheel weights.
That said, has anyone come up with a cost of tubes and fluid to compare it to the $100 + or - that a pair of 26# weights should cost?"
Guys,
I prefer wheel weights mostly too. That said sometimes (loader) we need both.
$125 seems the norm anymore for a pair of 26# weights.
I can get around 5 gallons of RV antifreeze in a 10.50 in a wheel @ $2.00 gallon on clearance (off season). 9 lbs per gallon est.

52# @ $125 = $2.40 per lb (100%+ resale value)
90# @ $40 add $10 for tubes = $.55 per lb (cheap weight, no resale value)

The tire filling valve is a one time cost of about $12 bucks.

 

[kostendorf]

Harry, Be careful crossing bridges up there. Most of them are older than your cubs.

 

[dthoman]

GENTLEMEN : Just bought a 682 cub ;is there a way to adj. the brake ; and the hydro ? The 682 wants to keep creeping ; can't leave it set when it is running it will creep away . Have already adj. the neutral linkage did'nt help ; any ideas would be very helpful. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!

 

[proessler]

Danny T, go to CCC & MTD area...682 ?'s belong over there. You're lucky, Charlie must be Eating an early Lunch or on holiday...

 

[dlbarnett]

When adding fluid to tires I prefer using winter windshield washer fluid. I simply break the bead on one side of tire, pour in fluid, reseat the bead. this is the easiest, fastest, lest messy way I've found.

 

[rbeem]

Need some 169 model help.
Can someone give me the dimentions or post up a good picture of the hole for the hour meter.

I've begun to tinker on my 169.....it's in dire need of help. The least I can do is get the JD green side panel off of it. Thats a start.

 

[dlbarnett]

Rick B. most gauges use a two inch hole

 

[rrschmitt]

Danny T,

IH made 682's so this is the right place to ask your question. Cub Cadet Corp also made 682's for IH after IH sold the Cub Cadet line to MTD. Checkout http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html for readjusting your Hydro so it doesn't creep in neutral. You may also need to do a trunnion repair on your hydro unit along with some new trunnion springs which you can get from one of the sponsors above or your nearest CC dealer. There's lots of good info at the cubfaq.com web site which you can access at the FAQ link near the top of the page including how to do the trunnion repair if necessary.

 

[wsdrake]

Charlie-
Thanks for the info. If it really is that simple i see no reason not to put the creeper in. Thanks!