• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through May 22, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have a 782 with a 44c deck.It seems that I have bent something, while belly blading with the deck,opps. The hanger frame looks straight. The Adjustable link to the lift mech. no longer hangs plumb.My guide wheel on the deck occasionally gets caught under the rear drive wheel. I think the lift linkage to the tractor may be bent.If so is there a way to bend it back without damaging the mechanism? would anyone have a worms- eye view of the 782 with hyd lift. I will look in the books this morning. I will also get some pictures of the problem.
Thank You John
 
John, it's possible that the rockshaft is bent. Check where the "fork" on the deck subframe rides on the rockshaft (see photo and text below), it may have worn part way through the rockshaft causing a weak spot. With the deck and subframe removed, lower the lift so the lift arms are in the lowest position then compare the two to see if they are in the same position. Having said that it's more likely that it's the deck subframe that is bent.

In the photo below the arrow on the left is pointing to the rockshaft, check here for wear. The arrow on the right is pointing to the right hand lift arm, on your 782 compare the right hand lift arm to the left hand lift arm to make sure they are in the same plane. If they are in the same plane the rockshaft is likely not bent.

35741.jpg
 
John, now that I think about it I believe that on the 82 series the mower deck subframe Fork rides on a cross brace not on the rock shaft. I don't own an 82 series so I can't be sure. I'm pretty sure that someone will correct me though.
happy.gif
 
Yep, looks like it's a foot rest brace that the deck subframe fork rides on. This is the underbelly of a 682 (manual lift).

35743.jpg
 
Question for those who have viewed Kraigs latest plow CD....Is it just my copy or do the others all play the "Jaws" theme when my 982 Landshark is on the screen??

THANK YOU to Kraig for his time in developing this great photo collection. I greatly appreciate your efforts and trust that others do to.
 
Hi All,

I recently installed an IH 3pt hitch on my 782 attach a #1A rear mounted tiller. When I raise the hydraulic lift, the center lift pin for the tiller comes right up and touches the bottom rear edge at the center of the fender assembly. If it went it went any further, it would start bending the sheet metal. Do all 782's with a three point hitch have this condition? My 149 with 3pt hitch stops about 1 inch below the rear edge of the fender pan assembly when the hydraulic lift is fully up. I'm wondering if the hitch lift bar is a little too long? It's a repro I got from one of the sponsors above for a 782, everything else is IH OEM parts.
 
Ken, must be something on your PC.... hmmmmm, does it ever say "Candygram!"? Thanks for the nice words.
happy.gif
 
Kraig: Thanks for info on 1450 pto I will check it out this weekend ( still prefer old style pto ) The other James

one more question i've been changing my drive shaft couplings on 109,129,149 to 1450 stlye front and rear has any one else done this mod and how long will they last upfitted like this.
 
Another question.

The 44" deck I'm refurbising, has two washers stacked between the deck itself and the mower support brackets (circled in attached picture).

Are those washers supposed to be there, is there any reason the bracket can't sit directly on the deck?

35750.jpg
 
James, that was likely the result of someone trying to level the deck, it'll be stronger without the washers as that area is commonly cracked from stress.
 
Normally the front hangers would be adjusted to level the deck but they may have run out of adjustment range. When this happens the deck hanger can be bent to raise or lower the rear mounting point. This way to level the deck is outlined in the FAQ entry #15 (see link above), which is from a series of posts from Steve Blunier. I think he had some photos to go with the posts but they didn't make it into the FAQ. If you can't make sense of the text let me know and I'll if I can find them in my archives.
 
Kraig,

A good test on condition of piston rings is the manometer experiment as described in the Kohler manual. Visual smoke out of the breather (blowby) is a sure indicator of stuck or worn piston rings. The manometer will indicate if you are out of permissible range on crankcase pressure. Kohler’s can continue to run for a long time in this condition, but it’s probably a good idea to repair it as soon as conveniently possible. Boring .010 over, new piston and rings (and con rod), plus a valve job should buy you several thousand more hours of dependable service.

James S.,

Going to the flexible disc coupling is a great mod. I plan to do this to my 107 when the engine is freshened up. The original pin coupling is noisy and wears out rather rapidly when compared to the flexible disc. Did this mod to a friend’s 169 several years ago and it’s still going strong.
 
David, thanks! I have the IH/Kohler service manual that describes the manometer and how to use it. However the manual doesn't state a diameter for the tubing so I assume it doesn't matter too much. Have you found an optimum diameter for the tubing? I'm thinking 1/4" or 3/8" ID.

35753.jpg
 
Kraig - I did the manometer test several years ago on the K-181 that was in My 72 when I bought it. I used 1/4" clear vinyl tubing. But any size should work as long as You can get a cork or stopper to fit into the dipstick tube.
 
Kurt Randall- please try to email me, ive tried several times, but no respones.... thanks T
 
Hey all,
has anyone else have a problem with the pipe threads in the exhaust port before? The old elbow literally wore out , fell out so i retapped the threads, put a new pipe in the d*mn thing broke off after about an hour of plowing and the worked my a$$ of getting it out retapped and did it all over again. Should i be worried?
help.gif
 
Justin-
I'm assuming you're just chasing the threads, not tapping new NPT threads deeper. From what it sounds like you're using a pipe nipple for your exhaust versus the original threaded elbow. What all is hanging off of that pipe that might make it break?
 
Denny, that's what I figured, thanks.

Hi Kenny, you must be testing to make sure Bryan didn't purge your account.
happy.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top