Archive through May 12, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wshytle

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
2,810
displayname
Wayne Shytle
Don-

I forgot to mention the id tag should be on the left side of the chain enclosure of that tiller.
 
Anyone have some closeup pic's and measurements of that tiller belt guard assly and how it all mounts??

I need to fab one up for my tiller. That spinning pulley and exposed belts worry me.

Dave S
 
David S.
Don't worry about it!

Besides, that guard does nothing but wear/fray/weakens the edge of the belt and wears it out quicker.
 
hey guys have a problem.i put the main spring and throw out bearing back together and the dealer talked me into getting the spacer for the teaser spring. but now I can not get the clutch plates on, they do not slide down enough to put the roll pin back. the spacer is to large a diamiter to sit inside the first plate, the one with the notch for the pin to sit in. I bought a new teaser spring, spacer. and throw out bearing. I guess the teaser spring gets compressed twice? by the main spring and the plates?
 
PATRICK - Yes, the teaser spring does get collapsed by the main spring as you let the clutch pedal up. But it's a much lower rate spring so you can ease the tractor into motion gradually. If & when you have a GD Cubbie with a broken teaser spring you will know exactly what they are there for.
 
I was asked by a guy at the Ranier tractor club( mostly big tractors) meeting to help check out the clutch on his original. About a month ago he was towing three small carts, with kid in them at a easter egg hunt. The clutch started slipping, now it will not dis-engage. Does FAQ 18 and 28 apply to this tractor? What may have happened?
 
Wayne Shytle

I don`t feel much different lol , but never thought I would make it to the big 60. I think I might have a trade going for my 1962 Original for a 125 with deck and tiller. Time will tell , Another project to clean and paint , a tiller next winter . So much to do .
old.gif
 
Patrick James Fitzwater



you got it, compress the spring to install the roll pin. I would , I think the parts that wear out are the bearing and it`s seat also the teaser spring. so if it worked and stoped working , I would put my order in for those parts and be done. Charlie , likes orders to fill !
angel.gif
 
Had an interesting one today. I have a 1650 and it suddenly started to speed itself up. I found out the governor shaft and nut bushing had unscrewed it self form the block. Screwed it back in and got it back to the garage ok. Going to check the governor adjustment after supper.
 
Have you guys ever noticed that on a lot of promotional ads that the decals for a 147 are on wide frame? For example, in the FARMALL CUB & CUB CADET book,on pages 85 and 87 there are what I assume to be 149's with 147 decals. Did IH ever make a wide frame 147?
 
Andrew, the book also say's it is a prototype 149 with 147 badging
 
The hydro lever on my CC is loose, to the point it rattles under power. Loose being it can move 2-3 inches towards the steering wheel ("up") then back down seated again. What is likely causing this, and how can it be fixed (or can it)? Thanks
 
Is there a way to check the charging output of the alternator found on the K301 in a 1250 Quietline? I am told that the regulator is bad, but I want to be sure before I spend the money on that expensive part.
 
Oh yeah, I figured it out. It made sence to me later that of course it would need to be compressed more then with the old spring. I was shocked that my original teaser spring was a good 1/4 shorter then the new one. But I didnt think anything of it when I asked that question to you guys.

I got it together then realized I forgot to put the lever on! the dealer had given me a "few extra" pins. just one extra short one to be exact. I am not sure if I should use that one now or not there would be nothing sticking out on either end if I do, I mushroomed the end a little getting the new one on the first time without the lever. I don't know how you guys get them on with out mushrooming them.
 
Patrick: I think Marlin has a good trick, he uses a punch with a concave point, like a finishing nail punch, that "grabs" the pin drives it in (and out) without mushrooming it.
 
I have a few punches like that but they are a little small and want to push the inner part out. I'll have to see if I can come up with anything that I have maybe.
 
Patrick; Craftsman has a 5 piece set of coil pin punches for $20. They work much better than a flat end punch.
 
Don-

I wouldn't trade off your O for that 125 but I would try trading some cash. Any progress with the tiller deal?

Brian-

The easiest way is to put a volt meter on the battery with it running. If you get 13+ volts it's charging.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top