Thanks for the help, need to go to work. Dave, sometimes it has a blue spark sometimes a yellow spark. Charlie, last time I took your advice I got splinters in my ear. Anyway off to work I go. Oh ya, the electric lift works great!
Archive through May 09, 2011
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Brandon, hopefully the engine in your 86 is the original one as that 8hp Kohler engine used a special extended crankshaft that was required for proper position of the PTO clutch. The 8hp engine is quite a bit smaller than the 10hp, 12hp, 14hp and 16hp Kohler used in Cub Cadets thus the need for the extended crank. The 86 was the only Cub Cadet that required the extended crank. The older narrow frame Cub Cadets used 7hp to 14hp Kohlers but the PTO lined up properly with the 7hp without the extended crank. I wish I had some photos of an 86 that showed detail of the PTO and engagement parts. You can use The Cub Cadet Parts Lookup see link above to access exploded parts drawings. That should show you the parts that you need.
My 1450 problem is not the exhaust valve and I will test the condensor next (thanks Robert K. great reference). When I hit the key, the starter can't even turn it over, so I am assuming that it is an internal problem and am going to have to look at an overhaul. Any recommnedations on a kit? On a seperate note, I cam acrossed a 782 with a Series II that I am considering buying to use till I can get the 1450 going. What were the problems should I look for with this machine?
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Robert K-
Thanks for posting that write-up on testing Magnetos. I actually have one that needs testing on the Cadet 60 that's sitting in the garage.
Maybe now that I know what I'm doing, I'll look into it tonight...
Thanks for posting that write-up on testing Magnetos. I actually have one that needs testing on the Cadet 60 that's sitting in the garage.
Maybe now that I know what I'm doing, I'll look into it tonight...
jbaker
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Wayne S my email is acting up , yes I did get the pan and sent you something.
Now to say on topic I am heading out with the tiller cub to rough up an area for some lite pasture seed....its a good cub day here in Northern Ill
Now to say on topic I am heading out with the tiller cub to rough up an area for some lite pasture seed....its a good cub day here in Northern Ill
Art, thanks for the laugh !!!!!
Maybe now that I know what I'm doing, I'll look into it tonight...
That's funny !!!
Tonight I'll be pulling sprayer with my 122, giving some dandelions a shock treatment.
Maybe now that I know what I'm doing, I'll look into it tonight...
That's funny !!!
Tonight I'll be pulling sprayer with my 122, giving some dandelions a shock treatment.
David, you wrote, "When I hit the key, the starter can't even turn it over, so I am assuming that it is an internal problem..."
It's diagnostic time.
Let's start with the electrical. The S/G NEEDS good wires and CLEAN terminals at all connections from the battery to the S/G (that includes the solinoid found buried in the support structure under the steering wheel). (One of my personal pet peeves. The solinoid should be relocated where you can easily get to it as it's quite useful in troubleshooting.) So if the battery is good (use a "toaster type" load checker to be sure) and the wiring/terminals are good, then take the belt of the S/G and turn the key. With no load, the S/G should agressively spin. If it doesn't then you probably have a brush problem and need to rebuild the S/G. it's easy and takes about 30 minutes to do.
If the S/G is good then it's time to look at the engine. Check to see there's nothing obvious like the PTO jammed. Then take out the spark plug so there's no compression (do not rely on the internal vompression release for this). By hand (or wrench) slowly turn the engine over. Listen and feel the engine block (I sometimes use a mechanics stethiscope) and see if you can determine any mechanical binding/clicking/grinding/rumbling that would be indicative of something internally wrong. Kohlers usually fail mechanically in a catastrophic manner meaning they either run or they are totally fetched up. So if you sense any indications then it's time to dig deeper. remove the cylinder head and repeat, watching the piston and the valves. do they rise and fall smoothly? if yes then it's time to pull the engine and get inside. Good luck and keep us informed. we all learn from each other's experiences!
P.S. I bought my batttery tester and stethiscope from Harbour Freight.
It's diagnostic time.
Let's start with the electrical. The S/G NEEDS good wires and CLEAN terminals at all connections from the battery to the S/G (that includes the solinoid found buried in the support structure under the steering wheel). (One of my personal pet peeves. The solinoid should be relocated where you can easily get to it as it's quite useful in troubleshooting.) So if the battery is good (use a "toaster type" load checker to be sure) and the wiring/terminals are good, then take the belt of the S/G and turn the key. With no load, the S/G should agressively spin. If it doesn't then you probably have a brush problem and need to rebuild the S/G. it's easy and takes about 30 minutes to do.
If the S/G is good then it's time to look at the engine. Check to see there's nothing obvious like the PTO jammed. Then take out the spark plug so there's no compression (do not rely on the internal vompression release for this). By hand (or wrench) slowly turn the engine over. Listen and feel the engine block (I sometimes use a mechanics stethiscope) and see if you can determine any mechanical binding/clicking/grinding/rumbling that would be indicative of something internally wrong. Kohlers usually fail mechanically in a catastrophic manner meaning they either run or they are totally fetched up. So if you sense any indications then it's time to dig deeper. remove the cylinder head and repeat, watching the piston and the valves. do they rise and fall smoothly? if yes then it's time to pull the engine and get inside. Good luck and keep us informed. we all learn from each other's experiences!
P.S. I bought my batttery tester and stethiscope from Harbour Freight.
Thanks Robert. I'm pretty sure that the Quietline series did away with the S/G. Maybe someone can verify this setup... The PTO turns freely and has no obstructions and does not bind up when turned by hand. I like the idea of the mechanics stethiscope but may just pull the head and check it out. Where do you find it easiest to turn it by hand?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
David/Robert-
The QL tractors have a more modern bendix-drive starter and an alternator charging system, not a starter/generator. Since it is a QL, make sure that the ground cable from the battery to frame is good and is making a good connection, and also that the ground cable from frame to engine is in place and making good contact. If that all checks out I'd verify the solenoid and wiring to the starter, and then remove, disassemble, and clean the starter. You might need to replace the brushes. At any rate, I'd check out all the electrical stuff first before you pull the head or take the engine apart.
If you haven't already, download the engine service manual from Kohler's website.
The QL tractors have a more modern bendix-drive starter and an alternator charging system, not a starter/generator. Since it is a QL, make sure that the ground cable from the battery to frame is good and is making a good connection, and also that the ground cable from frame to engine is in place and making good contact. If that all checks out I'd verify the solenoid and wiring to the starter, and then remove, disassemble, and clean the starter. You might need to replace the brushes. At any rate, I'd check out all the electrical stuff first before you pull the head or take the engine apart.
If you haven't already, download the engine service manual from Kohler's website.
Dave, Sorry for the confusion but all my cubs are S/G. Same story though you just unbolt the started from the block and make a good ground to the block when you turn the key. The starter should really torque so hold on tight.
I turn the shaft (aft) side of the engine when hand cranking the motor.
I turn the shaft (aft) side of the engine when hand cranking the motor.
Matt, I see that you have a number of 82 series machines. I have came acrossed a 782 that I was considering. I need something while I fix this 1450. Anything in particular problem areas I should look for? Also, how much modifying would I have to do to make my 50" deck work?
To any and all!
Will a spindle from a wf and a 1710 differ or are they the same? This will be for one of the 129s to keep things OT.
I've talked my neighbor into getting a cub. Since I recently ended up with surplus 129s I'm putting one together for him. He had one of the box store specials and it didn't last a year before it went back. My only fear is he has a 6 or 7 year old he lets ride by himself and I think the 129 is going to be a little much for him. He's using one of the 124s until I finish so this job won't take as long as most. He called this morning and said he hit a rock and the deck was making noises. He brought it over and sure enough the middle blade was bent just a tad. I straightened it on the anvil and sharpened all three just to get it back to square one.
My dad taught me, never lend, never borrow so this is job will get done on time. That 124 is one of my favorites.
Will a spindle from a wf and a 1710 differ or are they the same? This will be for one of the 129s to keep things OT.
I've talked my neighbor into getting a cub. Since I recently ended up with surplus 129s I'm putting one together for him. He had one of the box store specials and it didn't last a year before it went back. My only fear is he has a 6 or 7 year old he lets ride by himself and I think the 129 is going to be a little much for him. He's using one of the 124s until I finish so this job won't take as long as most. He called this morning and said he hit a rock and the deck was making noises. He brought it over and sure enough the middle blade was bent just a tad. I straightened it on the anvil and sharpened all three just to get it back to square one.
My dad taught me, never lend, never borrow so this is job will get done on time. That 124 is one of my favorites.
Wayne, according to the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup (what an amazing resource
) they have a different part number. I assume that the wheel axle portion is a different dimension. At one point during the Quiet Line production the wheel axle was increased from 3/4" to I believe 1". The S/N break is 632501/632502.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
David-
You'd just need 5/8" pulleys on the mule drive and center pulley of the deck, and a different belt.
Wayne-
The 1710 has 1" spindles, your 129 has 3/4" spindles.
You'd just need 5/8" pulleys on the mule drive and center pulley of the deck, and a different belt.
Wayne-
The 1710 has 1" spindles, your 129 has 3/4" spindles.
Thanks Matt, that's what I didn't know. Sometimes the simplest answers can spell it all out. The actual axle spindle size is the only difference in the spindle set-up. It's hard to figure this type of info out sometimes.
Melody; Put a voltmeter on the + side of coil and check voltage while cranking. You should read 12 to 12.5 volts. A friend had his 1200 here saturday and it would run a few minutes and die and then not start back. It had 5 volts on the coil. The problem was the wire on the back of the amp meter. We took wires off and cleaned and fixed the problem. The previous owner is a box store lawn mower mechanic. He couldn't fix the 1200. My friend is a happy cub cadet owner.
So I was working on my free 1650 the other night. Previous owner said it would be running fine, and then start missing and running poorly. I only heard it run for a few minutes, and noticed some noise in the valve area. pulled the head, breather, and carb and this is what I found behind carb.
Pretty sure I found the noise!
Pretty sure I found the noise!
