• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through February 18, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2000
Messages
918
displayname
Paul Bell
Paul T.
Yes, IH mde different mounts and mule drive to put the timed deck on the model 70. They also made a different mount/mule drive, front PTO, to put the castiron end deck normally used on the 70/100, on the Original. The early TC-103 70/100 parts manual only list 1 part number for the 70/100 dash/pedestal assembly, so yes the holes for the front PTO lever would have been in the pedestal. The front PTO completing package was a required option on the 70/100, that was dealer/owner installed if you bought a mower deck, snow throw, or other implement that required it. It was not standard equipment.
 
Paul "T",
Are you back in town or are you still scouting all of Texas for Cub Cadets??
 
Paul T,
I have one of those kits to put a timed deck on a 70..
CC specialties has a picture of one .
 
I'm in the process of turning a 108 into a "148"
dizzy.gif
, are there any unforseen issues that I might encounter?
dunno.gif
Oh, what color paint should I use
wink.gif
.
 
hydro oil question. I opened the rear on a 1250 hydro, the oil looked fine however it looks like a waxy deposit above the oil level. The inside of the rear is coated any thoughts?
 
Keneth Peaney; I like the 48" and 44" decks, but the scalping is a problem. I now use a spring assist with my mowers and that helps a lot. I just have to slow down on rough ground so it doesn"t bounce to much. On my 169 I use a 44a with a speed up pulley and paint the bottom of my deck with P O R 15. That is the best combination i have ever found. Just my 01c
221432.jpg
 
Luther, if my deck had the wheels at the back outside corners, I don't think it would be as much of a problem. I don't like to mow real short most of the time unless we have lots of rain(Spring). But it does do a great job on most of the yard. Just have to be careful in rough areas and watch turning speeds as the quick attach has just enough slop in the mounting points to let the deck tilt when turning.

KennyP
 
I've been disassembling the current 129 and it's amazing the amount of welds I'm finding. So far the axle pin (which I showed recently), both driveshaft couplers, and yesterday I found the trunion spring cam welded to the pump shaft. I was curious why it was so tight feeling before I got the tractor split. I'm thinking now about changing out the pump altogether. I'll have to exchange the front to keep the ports. This will be a first for me. Other than keeping everything clean if there're some things I need to know please feel free to chime in (Marlin and Fancy).
 
DALE M. - Not to get too far off-topic but SON & I raced (SON drove, I was crew chief, pit person, chauffeur, & sponsor!) gas 1/10th scale truck, then 1/8th scale gas 4WD buggy. Then after about 3-4 yrs got into elec. First was 1/12th pan car in winter on carpet, then 1/10th Touring car both on carpet & parking lot in summer, the finally SON got a LOSI 1/10 2wd TRUCK. It was the Kinwald Graphite Plus edition, which he competed at a National level race at Lake-in-the-Woods, IL in about '98 and finished 62nd out of 175 or 178 (2nd in "G" main) against Kinwald, the Francis brothers, etc. SON actually TQ'd against Paul Lemieux in one of our club races one Sunday with our tired old SCRC 1700 packs in a Koyosho TCR-1 when everyone else was racing with 2000's & 2300's. Unfortunately SON's race didn't go as well as qualifying went. SON was about 8-9 when we got the first 2WD gas truck and we raced for 8-9 yrs., "On EVERY SUNDAY!".

ANYHOW, That drag looks like it would do a great job on driveways, R/C & BMX tracks. With all those concrete weights I bet it can pull hard at times. DAD used to have a bigger version years ago when he farmed. I'd drag the barnyard after every rainy spell to level out tracks in the mud. DAD was my Little League & Babe Ruth baseball coach and we'd have practice in our barnyard lots of times... needed the yard smooth and flat. Drag was about six ft wide, weighed more than a CC 70 so pulled it with the H & Super H.

WAYNE M. - The insides of ALL IH rearend castings is sealed with a red oxide sealer to trap sand & seal porosity in the castings. If the waxy buildup wipes off easily, it may be Hy-Tran that has captured ALL the water or condensation it can handle. Time to drain it, clean all that gunk out, install a new filter and refill with new Hy-Tran. If the Hy-Tran has been in there more than a year it's probably time.

T.G. Wilie - K321 should drop right into a 108 with very few problems. No frame knotching, swapping in small flywheels, etc. I like my engines painted BLACK, either gloss or semi-gloss black. Keeps them looking clean longer.
 
I ordered a ported hydro with the intent of converting my 682 to hydraulics. I received instead an 1811 hydro. Now the exterior of this pump is not as good as my 682, probably because the tractor was stored outside & the aluminum is somewhat corroded. Also my pump has been well taken cared of, always stored inside, changed oil often, runs perfect, just doesn’t have the ports.

So what I was thinking of was installing the cast iron front portion from the 1811 onto my existing 682 pump. The part #’s are different, but the shafts and the mating gasket are the same. There may be some interior changes in these assemblies but that doesn’t necessarily mean it won’t work. So my question is, does anyone think it won’t work? Has anyone tried this setup?
Thanks
 
Norm B. I'm kinda "on the run" doing lots of little errands however evreything should interchange without problem. Jeff Waltermire gave me permission to use a picture that he sent me recently with the outer appearane of an older hydro's aluminum piece and the three holes versus missing the three holes. The old style housing had a bolt on swashplate where as the new style has the swashplate as part of the housing. The third hole was the drain hole however since the oil could drain back into the transmission through the bearing as it did before the third or drain hole was eliminated.

221435.jpg


A BIG THANK YOU to Jeff Waltermire for letting me use this picture.
 
Thanks a bunch, Marlin. I was hoping someone would tell me that!
 
Thanks for the all the info for mounting the timed deck on the 70. Yes Tom, I'm still on South Padre and there are NO Cub Cadets near here! I'm not so sure that IH dealers ever existed in southern Texas! Salvage yards of any kind are pretty rare.
 
Norm B. Home for just a bit before Road Tripping to get a matched driver's door for the Dakota. (Hinge area has cracked around the welds and present door is literally falling apart.Waiting for a phone call and then off to Fort Dodge.) The part number difference from your non ported (682) to the ported (1811) housing is exactly that: i.e. the difference between ported and non ported. The aluminum housing and other internal parts within the aluminum housing are interchangeable. Just thought I'd go into a little more detail than earlier.

Dale M. That is a neat little homemade outfit.
 
Marlin,

I was comparing the aluminum pump & cast iron housing with ports from the 1811 to the 782. I don't know why they would be different.
 
Paul "T", I guess in "Southern Texas" they had plenty of little brown guys to do all the tractor work. They're still comming across the Rio. <font size="-2">(and don't care if I'm not P.C.)</font> 8-( 8-( 8-(
 
I would like to know what is involved in changing out the front portion of a non ported pump to a ported pump. Is it simply a matter of switching the two sections or is there something more to it? I think I remember another member recently doing this but details weren't involved like gaskets and shafts and such (plus I can't find it).I don't want springs flying or any other surprises. I'm sort of stuck at this point.

Any input will be greatly appreciated.
 
bash.gif
help.gif

Well, I'm back on the 582 carb. project. I opened up the carb. and cleaned it. It was really bad! Gummed up and corroded. I didn't know how to open up the tiny holes so I soaked it the best I could.
Then took an air hose to it. I put it all back together and nothing.
irritated.gif

So I'm about to give up. Do you think I could get a used carb. cheap? I think that would be the easiest. And I'm all about the easy way. What are my options?
1a_scratchhead.gif

Thanks.
 
Ok, what is this for? Looks like it attaches to a sleeve hitch. I know that it is a disc but is it just a piece of the whole thing?

221443.jpg


221444.jpg
 
T.G. Willie... When turning your 108 into a 148 You should make sure you rebuild the clutch system and possibly upgrade to a stronger clutch spring.
If you search 1600 you will find more talk about installing higher hp into a geardrive.

other than that no problems
 
Back
Top