mgonitzke
Well-known member
Timothy P.-
That's most of the coulter for a Brinly plow.
That's most of the coulter for a Brinly plow.
-
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Archive through February 18, 2011
- Thread starter pbell
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Allen Schumacher
Tim P., Bruce Nolte was looking for that yesterday. Check yesterdays archive, maybe its fits his plow.
Wayne,
I'll let you know, I'm getting ready to do that very thing, but I need to get some gaskets from Charlie first. I would like to know beforehand also, are springs & valves going to go flying when I take it off???
Are you attempting the same thing?
I'll let you know, I'm getting ready to do that very thing, but I need to get some gaskets from Charlie first. I would like to know beforehand also, are springs & valves going to go flying when I take it off???
Are you attempting the same thing?
K
kpeaney
Guest
Kent, I am having the same problems with a carb. Guess I will have to break down and buy the good stuff for one carb. I hate to do that!
KennyP
KennyP
Norm-
I think so. The po welded the trunion spring cam plate to the shaft as well as a bolt head in the slotted "find neutral" bracket. It has cost me a world of time and aggrevation. There are two fins broken on this pump too so since I have another pump from a 1250 I want to switch them out.
I think so. The po welded the trunion spring cam plate to the shaft as well as a bolt head in the slotted "find neutral" bracket. It has cost me a world of time and aggrevation. There are two fins broken on this pump too so since I have another pump from a 1250 I want to switch them out.
Norm-
That FAQ is about the pump gasket which I was planning to change to begin with. Once I got the tractor split I found all sorts of crap the po had messed up. I have done the pump gasket a couple of times and it's no big deal.
I'm hoping someone will chime in with information on what I can expect doing this switch.
Good luck!
That FAQ is about the pump gasket which I was planning to change to begin with. Once I got the tractor split I found all sorts of crap the po had messed up. I have done the pump gasket a couple of times and it's no big deal.
I'm hoping someone will chime in with information on what I can expect doing this switch.
Good luck!
jchamberlin
Well-known member
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Kent Shultz
Maybe its time to step back and consider things. If I recall correctly, neigbor's 582 won't start, brings it to you; you deduce fuel pump and/or carb issues. You've rebuilt fuel pump and carb, engine still won't start.
Three things necessary for combustion: fire, gas, compression.
Have we positively eliminated spark as an issue?
Have we verified compression (both cylinders)?
I have some sympathy for your situation. It took me a year to get the same engine running correctly. I had issues on all three systems: mechanical, electrical, and fuel.
Tell-tale sign of compression issue on startup: spins too fast, no "grunt" to get over compression stroke.
Tell-tale sign of fuel issue on startup: motor will start with ether (starting fluid) but won't stay running (because its not receiving fuel delivery).
Tell-tale sign of ignition issue on startup: (1) elimination of the other two issues, (2) no fire under test conditions, i.e., spark tester, or screw-driver 1/4" away from block, or Kohler rig with two spark plugs minus the electrodes (see their manuals).
A final possibility is that the timing is off. This can happen when the crank pin is sheared or partially sheared. Under this condition, the motor passes all the tests above (except running on ether), but still won't start.
The only way I know of to investigate the timing is to remove the flywheel and examine the key. You might need some help holding the flywheel while getting the nut off, it is torqued to 140 ft-lb. (Briggs & Stratton sells a special wrench for the purpose, or you can use a large, sturdy strap wrench, or a screw driver on the blower housing at the breather hole --but you may damage the blower cover.)
Then you still will need a fairly strong puller to remove it. (I used a harmonic balancer puller with bolts from a steering wheel puller.)
Good luck.
Maybe its time to step back and consider things. If I recall correctly, neigbor's 582 won't start, brings it to you; you deduce fuel pump and/or carb issues. You've rebuilt fuel pump and carb, engine still won't start.
Three things necessary for combustion: fire, gas, compression.
Have we positively eliminated spark as an issue?
Have we verified compression (both cylinders)?
I have some sympathy for your situation. It took me a year to get the same engine running correctly. I had issues on all three systems: mechanical, electrical, and fuel.
Tell-tale sign of compression issue on startup: spins too fast, no "grunt" to get over compression stroke.
Tell-tale sign of fuel issue on startup: motor will start with ether (starting fluid) but won't stay running (because its not receiving fuel delivery).
Tell-tale sign of ignition issue on startup: (1) elimination of the other two issues, (2) no fire under test conditions, i.e., spark tester, or screw-driver 1/4" away from block, or Kohler rig with two spark plugs minus the electrodes (see their manuals).
A final possibility is that the timing is off. This can happen when the crank pin is sheared or partially sheared. Under this condition, the motor passes all the tests above (except running on ether), but still won't start.
The only way I know of to investigate the timing is to remove the flywheel and examine the key. You might need some help holding the flywheel while getting the nut off, it is torqued to 140 ft-lb. (Briggs & Stratton sells a special wrench for the purpose, or you can use a large, sturdy strap wrench, or a screw driver on the blower housing at the breather hole --but you may damage the blower cover.)
Then you still will need a fairly strong puller to remove it. (I used a harmonic balancer puller with bolts from a steering wheel puller.)
Good luck.
Wayne Shytle
( I would like to know what is involved in changing out the front portion of a non ported pump to a ported pump. Is it simply a matter of switching the two sections or is there something more to it?)
I don`t think you will have any problems. get the manual and do some reading and have it next to you. I had my hrdro pump apart to change the main shaft and it was not that hard to do.
( I would like to know what is involved in changing out the front portion of a non ported pump to a ported pump. Is it simply a matter of switching the two sections or is there something more to it?)
I don`t think you will have any problems. get the manual and do some reading and have it next to you. I had my hrdro pump apart to change the main shaft and it was not that hard to do.
dfisk & jbaker, thanks for the info on the 108/148. The clutch was my main concern. I've already rebuilt the clutch but I put the stock spring back in it. I'll look into getting a red one. BTW I built the spring compressing tool that Matt Gonitzke has on his web page. Thing works like a charm. That boy is a guinness!
Norm Bartee
You would need a new gasket and some new seals, the trunion seals are large and different than the shaft seals. I needed to replace a bad shaft for my 1512 D . That is the hydro that I have posted and it is a ported pump , do you see the duck tape to put on the ends of the ports ? I would just get a ported pump if you need or want one . You would need to take a pump apart like I posted to change a non ported to a ported. My 129 loader does not have a ported pump ,but I did find a complete ported pump to switch out when I find a good deal on a power steering unit to install some day soon I hope. Seems people want $400.00 for the power steer piston and control unit. I`am looking for a tractor over here and will junk one when it comes along. Later Don T
You would need a new gasket and some new seals, the trunion seals are large and different than the shaft seals. I needed to replace a bad shaft for my 1512 D . That is the hydro that I have posted and it is a ported pump , do you see the duck tape to put on the ends of the ports ? I would just get a ported pump if you need or want one . You would need to take a pump apart like I posted to change a non ported to a ported. My 129 loader does not have a ported pump ,but I did find a complete ported pump to switch out when I find a good deal on a power steering unit to install some day soon I hope. Seems people want $400.00 for the power steer piston and control unit. I`am looking for a tractor over here and will junk one when it comes along. Later Don T
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Norm and Wayne-
Don is referring to the service manual.
T.G.-
Glad to hear it's working for you!
Don is referring to the service manual.
T.G.-
Glad to hear it's working for you!
My dad fabricated a coulter using a circular saw blade, complete with bronze bushing. He used a picture of a similar Brinley plow from Brinley's website as a pattern for making it. The newer plows just use a U-bolt to mount the coulter to the frame.
Jeremiah,
Thanks for your input.
The tractor will run on either or by poring gas in the carb. So I figure it has good compression and good spark. Right??
Still confused.
I think I'm going over to the classifieds.
Thanks for your input.
The tractor will run on either or by poring gas in the carb. So I figure it has good compression and good spark. Right??
Still confused.
I think I'm going over to the classifieds.
I just bought a Cub Cadet 127 that I found behind someones house. The Cub had been sitting for 2-3 yrs. So far the only problem is that the forward/reverse lever will not move (frozen up). Any sugestions on what this might be. I am new to Cub Cadet's esp. the hydro ones. Thanks
Jonathan Kiser
Welcome
Just follow the hydro lever down to where it goes into the friction area that is at the bottom of the shaft area. You will find that is where its stuck. try hitting it with a punch , tap it each way with a little penetrate rust remover. Worked for me.
Welcome
Just follow the hydro lever down to where it goes into the friction area that is at the bottom of the shaft area. You will find that is where its stuck. try hitting it with a punch , tap it each way with a little penetrate rust remover. Worked for me.
