Archive through May 04, 2005

[rchristensen]

Chuck F.
The front end of the drive shaft looks pretty good and the front bushing looks pretty good. but you need to make that determination. The front brass bushing should be tight in the bracket holding it, as it wears it slips out and you tear up your Rag joint. Place the front of the shaft in the bushing and see how much slop there is, its a call you need to make because no one can decide with a picture.

The rear of the drive shaft is wore pretty bad, probably because the brass bushing must be shot. Another reason it might be wore is if your ISO mounts are bad and the engine is down too low.

Check with Mike M. and see if he can weld up the shaft and turn it down in a lathe. But definetily replace the rear bushing. Did that rear bushing have a ball bearing behind it?

Another thing when you replace everything check the clearance between the Fan and the lift bracket when it is all the way back. More than one person has replaced a Fan and had the lift bracket wipe it out imediately. You should be good as you probably don't have the Ram and the upper bracket.

 

[dfrisk]

LONNY B. - Lift handle on the 124 should be very similar to My 72. Not sure what the problem with this 124 is but I broke the top off the latch rod where the actual thumb button threads on at the top about three years ago. The latch rod isn't avail. as a part. I had to make My own. Can't remember if it was 5/16" or 3/8" rod, but You have to thread the top for the button, which IS avail., slide the new spring & flat washer on the rod, slide it onto the lift handle from the top, then heat & bend the bottom that engages the slots in the lift quadrant with the notches bolted to the frame of the tractor. You can't tap the replacement rod into the handle from the bottom, the rockshaft itself bows the rod and it binds in the handle. BT-DT. The whole rockshaft assembly was welded together in a jig or fixture with the rod, button & spring already inside the handle.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Last Call for Plow Day 9 photos. I think I have photos from all that intended to submit them for the Plow Day 9 Photo Collection CD. Remember, if you submit photos you get a free copy of the CD. Thanks.

 

[cfischer]

Richard, there is a big silver ball behind it, is that the ball bearing you're talking about? It doesn't look worn, But I did order the brass bushing for the rear.

Chuck

 

[jvangor]

Hey Charlie, i just picked up the attachments for that 782, 38" tiller,42" snow blade, 42"snow blower, 44c mower deck. already have a line on a used engine came out of a 1810, fell of truck, engine is tight,200 hours. did i do good??

 

[dkirk]

Jack Courrege,

Welcome to the Forum! There are many Quiet Line drivers here (including self) that will be happy to answer questions you may have. You've done yourself and the world a good deed in rescuing that 1450. This is a great tractor that will give you virtually unlimited life if good maintenance procedures are followed.

Thanks for sharing your story with us.

 

[rchristensen]

Chuck F.
That is the ball bearing I was talking about, used to center the drive shaft on the earlier versions, don't loose it.

 

[jkoenig]

Herbert G.,

I am looking at the package for my Vibra-Tach. It has a number 670156 on a label. Mine is Tecumseh brand. It was a few dollars cheaper than the B&S version. Any B&S dealer or Tecumseh dealer ought to be able to help you. It's just a matter of how interested they are in helping you with the unusual items.

P.S.A.: KMart is closing out the automotive spray paints in my neighborhood. That means Wimbledon white is gooing for almost half price. I know it's almost nobody's first choice to use a rattle can or that particular color, but it is nice to have around just in case you have a paintin' emergency and no spray set up. It's been a few years, but I know I've heard (read) mention about Wimbledon White on this forum once or twice. Right Kraig and Bryan?

 

[digger]

Jim K,
Brinly products were/are Wimbledon White.

 

[jkoenig]

Digger,

Perfect. I'm painting my Brinly spring assist with it after rust converter. I had a heck of a time trying to figure out how to paint it in the extended posaition. A p.o. had tried to paint it, but it was just puddled around the coils. Almost done now.

 

[bmcmeen]

Wimbledon White? WTH, we painting Patios around here now???

 

[lherrmann]

I have been reading this forum since last year and have found a great amount of information. I finally need to ask a question so I signed up.

I have a 106 that I bought last year. Brian was kind enough to rebuild the clutch for me while I was having some other work done. Got everything put back together and got it out to the farm to mow. By the end of the first tank of gas the wiring at the voltage regulator was on fire. Since it was fall, back into the garage it went for the winter. I ordered a new wiring harness and last weekend I started installing it. All went well and yesterday I went to finish the installation and give it a try. When I hooked up the battery cables there was a small spark and a couple of clicks from the front of the machine somewhere. I stopped and rechecked all the connections and realized that I had the Bat(gray) and Field(yellow) wires reversed on the voltage regulator. I switched them around and now I have nothing. Did I fry something by having them hooked up wrong? I don'tknow a lot about engines or electrical but this is my baby so I'll learn if you're patient.

BTW: There were two things that on the old wiring that were odd. Ground wire at S/G wasn't connected and neutral starting switch wasn't hooked up. Both are now.

I'd appreciate any ideas. I need to get started mowing.

Thanks,
Lisa

 

[agitch]

Jeff V.

Can you be any luckier!

 

[tcbusch]

Lisa,
If you switched the Battery and the Field wires you most likely toasted the regulator. The battery was connected directly to the ground. It should not have effected anything else.

It is also possible that you melted the gray wire. I think this wiring diagram is the same for your model. Ignore the red letters.

 

[lherrmann]

Thanks Terry. I'll get a new regulator before I go out to the farm again. It's a 40min drive so I only get out on weekends.

Do you know what exactly the neutral starting switch is supposed to do? I haven't found and explanation but assume that means the gears should be in neutral in order for it to start.

 

[tcbusch]

Linda,
Make sure you get a regulator that is designed to work with the Cub Cadet. They are not all the same.
There shouldn't be a neutral starting switch unless someone put it on after market. The safety switch mentioned in the drawing is activated when you push the clutch brake pedal all the way down. Its has a break-over design so you will most likely here a click while you are pushing the clutch brake in. To see the switch you have to pull the deck off and crawl under the tractor then look up. You will see a shaft connected to the pedal. That shaft had a flag on it that its a switch.

 

[wheinsohn]

Lisa,
Did the last owner have a jumper across the harness by the safety start switch? If they did, it probably has a bad switch or the tab is broke off the clutch/brake pedal, and that was thier way of by-passing it so it would start. Since you hooked it back up with the new harness, if it is bad or broken, you will not have a closed circuit to activate the starter solenoid.

 

[cfischer]

I got two questions... a while back I read someone talking about a battery that had 340 or 360 cca. My cub 1250 had a battery with 245 cca and it wasn't cutting it, it would barly crank the engine. What brand is good?

Also, I read somewhere that someone made a drive shaft!? Who is this person, and does he take orders? Or should I just go grab one for 35 bucks off of the sponcers site?

Chuck

 

[jkoenig]

Chuck F.,

Sears Die hard Gold.

Dave K. among others have made driveshafts. Most of them made theirs to improve upon some thing that they felt was a weak point. Dunno about anyone making them to order. Someone wil prolly volunteer soon.

 

[lherrmann]

I can get the parts number from my parts list. My service manual wiring diagram it nearly the same as the one you posted except it calls the safety switch a neutral starting switch and the selenoid the magnetic switch. Are these the same mechanically? I also have a charge indicator. I assume the charging side is the + post? I didn't check to see if the old wiring was jumped at the safety switch but it must have been in order for it to have run. Since I need to take everything with me when I go work on this gem, what is the best way to jumper the new wiring to bypass the switch? I'll try that before I swap the regultor. Maybe I'll get lucky?

We're off to a VE dance this evening and a tour of a beautiful B-25 that just flew over our house here in Eau Claire, WI. I'll get to the tractor tomorrow I guess.

I'll let you know how it goes.

(Message edited by lherrmann on May 07, 2005)