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Archive through May 04, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I wound up grinding the heads flat and drilling them out. Anti-seiz and lock washers on the re-install!! I think that I may invest in the socket that Bryan mentioned.....

Travis is your mail working??? (Sorry B&B) I just have to ask......
 
If no one has ever tried a hand impact before (the kind you hold and twist while striking with hammer) they work GREAT! I bought a K-Mart brand one back in 79 and it still gets used a lot. They're perfect for stuck screws in boat motors as well as steel parts.

Bryan -- yer link is dragging
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why don't ya get mad and sock-et !!
 
Ken -

Wouldn't ya know it? After I bought my hand impact driver (after having the same issues as Tedd on the 1450), I haven't found a footrest screw that I couldn't take out with the other tools. Must scare 'em into submission...

Kinda like the Inquisition - just show 'em the instruments...
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<font size="-2">NO-one expects the Spanish Inquisition...</font>
 
Tedd-
Anti-sieze may not be real good for that application. Believe it or not, Loctite works great on keeping fasteners from corroding in. Depending on the Loctite used; 222, 272, 777, etc. the threadlocker softens right up with no more than a heat gun, torch if you're impatient and careful.
 
"Longtime listener, first time caller" or something like that.
Hello, I've been here for a while, just have'nt talked any. I recently bought a model 1A tiller and plan to put it on my 129. I have'nt got the tiller yet. Does anyone have a guess on the weight of a 1A tiller? (not including the PTO gearbox).
Also, Iv'e looked through the archives ( sure is a lot of info there) and can't find the info on using studs inplace of bolts for mounting the PTO gearbox on the rearend plate. And would I need a longer PTO drive belt? Can you lead me to the info? I have a tiller operators manual and a parts list, but any help you can give me is appreciated. Thanks Jerry H.
 
Jerry -- I don't know where it went but Bryan use to have a pic of his "rear end" in the FAQ showing the rear plate with studs screwed in then lock nuts to hold the plate. Then he put the gear box on over that ... the rest of your inquiry will have to come from else where.
 
Jerry H,
A 1A weighs in at 200 pounds gear box included.

I use 3/8 x 1 3/8" studs, You can use shorter one's if you need to.

You'll need an IH-549250-R1 which is 13/32 143 7/8"
 
Ken, I thought there was a nut on the stud behind the gearbox plate that always stayed there to hold the rearend plate, but wasn't sure.

Digger, A color pictures is always better than a list of words and an old black and white manual.

I'm going to pickup the tiller in two weeks. I'll let you know how the mount up goes.

Thanks for the info.
 
Hi, I believe I need a throttle shaft repair kit for my 149. Is this made by Cub Cadet or some fly by night aftermarket company? Has anyone made this repair, and did it work?? Anyone know the part number for the kit?

Thanks,

jim
 
Some guy on eBay is selling an 1100 with what he calls a "creeper gear transaxle".
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He's got a pic of the shifter,sure enough it's the same POS I have in the driveway. Note to self: Any handle with a round knob means it's attached to a creeper gear. He says it'd make a nice puller with a creeper. I say it'd make a nice set of gym lockers.
 
Tedd,

Re: Footrest screws.

Use a cold chisel and hammer on the outter edge to get them turning. Just tap yourself a little foothold, then get a good position and whack the crap out of the head out by the edge...usually takes them out no problem.
 
Leave it to Travis to spend all night looking for pictures of Bryan's "butt".
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I may be looking for someone in NY to either go break some punks legs or key his fully restored 72 Chevelle (father bought and paid for) ... I've been stiffed on payments before but I went way in the hole on this deal. He seems to have quite a rare car collection but can't pay me ... Where's Bruno when ya need him ??
 
Ted use Stainless steel button head allen bolts and you will never have a problem removing them.A sponser has them or can get them also they are polished and very bright.
 
Tedd, when I was getting all that virus crap a while back, I set my email filter on high. Problem is that it sorts out a little too much!! I'll sort through them here one of these days.

Kid broke his wrist last night rollerblading. Always something!!
 
WYATT - Your correct on the Lock-Tight. I've even heard toothpaste works. ;-) I remember fighting the intake manifold cover on a 5.0L Mustang several years ago that had T15 Torx screws threaded into aluminum with nothing on them. Siezed up pretty good. I bought three or four T-15 Craftsman sockets, the impact driver and went home. And I was back exchanging two broken T-15 sockets about an hour later but the screws were out! Bad part about those engines was You had to remove those screws first before You did ANYTHING much more involved that changing or checking the oil. ;-(
 
Travis wanted me to take a pic of Bryans butt but I just couldn't bring myself to have that image stuck in my mind for the rest of my life!
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Tedd -

If the head of the footrest screw is too far gone to use any tool on, it can be ground clean, and a bolt with a nice new head welded to it. Put a wrench on the new bolt and (if your weld is good), back them out as one.
 
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