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Archive through May 04, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Charlie-
Thanks for saving us the mental anguish...
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(Message edited by aaytay on May 06, 2004)
 
Hey Guys... engine question;

The 109 hasn't been right since the 4th furrow Nick and I turned at Prophetstown. Here's a description of the symptom;

I open up the throttle, push the SR lever all the way forward, and run up the driveway (2% grade tops), and it goes like gangbusters for about 50 feet... then bogs just a little, and falls flat on it's face. If I'm quick to get the SR lever back, I can usually keep it from stalling, but from that point on, it's really hard to get it to develop any power.

If I shut it down, or let it idle for 20 seconds, it'll allow another 10 seconds of full power.

Note that under these conditions, I can usually run it to full goverend speed with no problems, just can't get any power out of it.

My suspicion was that I had some fuel-line blockage or a main-jet issue, but after giving it a cleaning-out and even trying another known-good carb, it still does it. Tried going to a cooler plug (suspecting detonation), fresh gas, and checked timing/gap... but no change.

It's a 15 year old 'service replacement' motor, and it uses a little oil, but not too bad...

Suggestions?
 
Dave K,
Do like Travis and others told me last year,
CHANGE THE COIL DUMBA$$! LOL

My 149 was doin that exact same thing, changed the coil and it runs fine now.
 
Looks like that's the same/similar problem that Leroy is having with his 782. See his post below. He already changed the coil, but then there is always infant mortality with electrical parts......

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on May 06, 2004)
 
Y'all forgot about my wide, "fat a$$"
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<font size="-2">hmmm, a name I was called by a certain person who cuts 2' grass in 3rd gear...</font>
 
Nice wheel spacers Bryan,
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Wasn't there a refferance to certan person that had a weight problem and questions as to who his father was?????
 
Dave-
Have you yanked the tank off and cleaned it out? Seems like every cub I've bought needed a "tank yank and new fuel line" plus maybe a carb rebuild.

When you think about it, it wouldn't take much blockage to shut-down the fuel flow on a gravity based system like your 149.

My 1872 ran surprisingly well for how much sand/pine-needles was in the tank, but then again that has a fuel pump to draw it through all that crap.
 
Bryan-
Did you restore your 100? (I'd say it looks nice, but then Dunham would accuse me of saying you had a nice..... well.... nevermind!)
;-)
 
Tedd -

I think THAT was from Austin Powers
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Art -

Restore? Nah, that was one of them wire brush & angle grinder rattle can 20' paint jobs.

She looks a lot sadder nowadays...
 
Yep. That was what I was thinking....

What was the design life on these tractors?? Looking at the wear on some of the drive line parts it looks like the 149 I'm working on is near the end of it. The whole drive line from the drive hub to the drive shaft coupling on the hydro needs to be replaced. Of cource the fan is missing, but luckily the hydro is realitvly clean. THe wear on the linkage for the hydro is shot too.
 
Kraig M,

Thanks so much for the heads up about those manuals download. You know I searched with Google several times looking for them -- no luck. Even looked at EBay and thought about buying a CDROM. And now I find them free for download. Thanks a bunch!!
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Leroy

P.S. I should also mention that I took the fuel pump off my 782 and was going to replace it with a new one ($50). I compared the new one with the old one and the old one seemed to work better. Took the unit apart and the valves and seemed to work well. Diaphragm didn't have any holes in it, so I put it back on. Same problem, no power after it warms up ????? Hopefully that manual will give me a clue about how to test if the valves are sticking when hot. It does backfire when hot which might cast a shadow of doubt on the exhaust vales. I called a local machine shop and they said it could be redone with a valve job and new rings and bearings for $100. Course I have to take it out
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:
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. I wonder if all those shields are the problem, doesn't seem like much air is available to the engine. Why would anyone want to cover up an engine like that? ????
 
Leroy, try running a few tankfuls of gas treated with MMO (Marvel Mistery Oil). See FAQ #18 above. This will help reduce carbon buildup and reduce the chance of sticking valves or even fix a slight sticking valve problem.
 
I have an International Cadet 85 Special with a bad transmission. Does anyone know how I can get a replacement transmission, either new, used, or reconditioned? It is a FOOTE model.

part number: 549 301 R91

Thanks,

Mike
 
Mike, sorry, the 85 is a riding lawn mower and as such is off topic here. You could try one of the forum sponsors see links above perhaps they can help you.
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Leroy-
Your engine is cooled with fan-driven air. Those shields help focus that airflow to get the heat out of the engine. If you remove the shields, the fan will still spin, but you'll loose all of the "driven" air and WILL over-heat your engine.

In a previous post, you said you've replaced the coil and checked the plugs. For the cost of plugs, why not replace them AND the plug wires and condensor. It may make the difference!
 
I see that some of you are using "Gator" blades. What are the advantages and disavantages compared to regular blades?
Seth
 
To: Home of the Plow Special,(Aaytay)

Thanks for the advice about the plugs and the air flow. I think I will go get a new set and see if that helps. The new coil came with new wires, so that is covered. I think I might just replace the condensor and points at the same time. These items, if the source of the problem would be no fun to take care of after an engine rebuild
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Leroy
 
Leroy, don't forget to try running MMO in the gas..... In case you missed it, see my post a few posts down.
 

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