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Archive through May 02, 2007
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Figured I would pop in and say hi.
I notice alot of people are having questions about gunk and wrong lubes in their trannys. I personally I run Hytran in my working tractors and 30wt in the restos. I always clean out the trannys when i get the tractors heres what i do. First order the rear seal and the shifter seal. Then I jack up the front end and shoot good ole brake clean into the shifter hole and let it run out the back into a pan. Cleans it right out completely. Sometimes I have to wipe some stuff out from under the ring and pinion but thats ok. I also spray that down back there too to get any gunk out. Works great in one shot no changing down the road needed. Brake clean its cheep and it works great. Just my .02
Oh use it in a well ventalated area its on the potent side....
I notice alot of people are having questions about gunk and wrong lubes in their trannys. I personally I run Hytran in my working tractors and 30wt in the restos. I always clean out the trannys when i get the tractors heres what i do. First order the rear seal and the shifter seal. Then I jack up the front end and shoot good ole brake clean into the shifter hole and let it run out the back into a pan. Cleans it right out completely. Sometimes I have to wipe some stuff out from under the ring and pinion but thats ok. I also spray that down back there too to get any gunk out. Works great in one shot no changing down the road needed. Brake clean its cheep and it works great. Just my .02
Oh use it in a well ventalated area its on the potent side....
Scott T.
I've got a scratch and sniff monitor, so it's ok.
Besides, Kraig is SPECIAL.
I've got a scratch and sniff monitor, so it's ok.
Besides, Kraig is SPECIAL.
I hear ya Rob I was almost living out there this winter. Doing restorations on 2 origonals and one had 90wt in it. Thought i had it all out but when i popped the axle tube off it was full of it, all over the bench with stinky 90wt. What a stinky mess. I really heard it for that one.... doors and windows open and the heat cranked.
Chad W,
Welcome to the forum. Contact one or more the fine sponsors at the top of the page to get correct pulley for putting that #2 tiller on your 782 Cubby. I believe they are a still available through CCC as well. You will need a 5/8" x 152" long belt (B-152 Gates belt) if you don't have one already. I mounted a 1A tiller on my 782 last year and it really works slick and does an excellent job tilling up the garden. I'll warn you that the pulley isn't cheap, cost me ~$65.
Also do you have the correct mule drive? You need one has straight idler arms holding the idler pulleys. I bought a mule drive assembly for a 44C/50C mower deck off of greedbay and took it apart and straightened the arms in a vise with a big Cresent wrench. Works great.
One other tip, when get ready you install the gearbox bracket on the back of the transmission, you may find it interferences with the bottom edge of the frame rails. I had to take the grinder to the bracket and grind off part of each upper corner to get it to clear. You could grind off the corner edge of the frame railing as well but I didn't like the idea of grinding on my Cubby.
Hope this helps.
Welcome to the forum. Contact one or more the fine sponsors at the top of the page to get correct pulley for putting that #2 tiller on your 782 Cubby. I believe they are a still available through CCC as well. You will need a 5/8" x 152" long belt (B-152 Gates belt) if you don't have one already. I mounted a 1A tiller on my 782 last year and it really works slick and does an excellent job tilling up the garden. I'll warn you that the pulley isn't cheap, cost me ~$65.
Also do you have the correct mule drive? You need one has straight idler arms holding the idler pulleys. I bought a mule drive assembly for a 44C/50C mower deck off of greedbay and took it apart and straightened the arms in a vise with a big Cresent wrench. Works great.
One other tip, when get ready you install the gearbox bracket on the back of the transmission, you may find it interferences with the bottom edge of the frame rails. I had to take the grinder to the bracket and grind off part of each upper corner to get it to clear. You could grind off the corner edge of the frame railing as well but I didn't like the idea of grinding on my Cubby.
Hope this helps.
I have a 1650 that has been sitting in a barn all winter. Ran great last year. Last 5 years for that matter. My wife continues to bagger me to get a new tractor, but I love my 1650. No way could I replace it with something new.
Anyway, I'm having difficulty getting it started this spring. Turns over great, just won't fire. I've replaced the plug and wire, but nothing. Any tips/advice you can provide would be very much appreciated.
The tractor wants to start, just needs a little help somewhere.
I apologize if this appears trivial, I'm not quite as handy as most of you appear.
Ed
Anyway, I'm having difficulty getting it started this spring. Turns over great, just won't fire. I've replaced the plug and wire, but nothing. Any tips/advice you can provide would be very much appreciated.
The tractor wants to start, just needs a little help somewhere.
I apologize if this appears trivial, I'm not quite as handy as most of you appear.
Ed
Ed,
If you did not put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank and run engine for a few minutes last fall/before storage, it could be a stuck float needle in the carburetor. The points in the ignition sometimes will stick closed, no spark. Do you have fuel and spark in the combustion chamber?
Jim
If you did not put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank and run engine for a few minutes last fall/before storage, it could be a stuck float needle in the carburetor. The points in the ignition sometimes will stick closed, no spark. Do you have fuel and spark in the combustion chamber?
Jim
Edward T:
1) On the top of the carb is the loooong main jet needle.....These are hollow and when allowed to sit over winter with no fuel stabilizer, fuel will often gum them up. It will not run much ,if any, if this is plugged or partially plugged.
2) Remove the loooong needle (don't lose the spring) and with a can of spray carb cleaner, put the little red tube on one of the holes at the tip. Block the other side and when you can get spray coming out all three levels (there other holes in the middle and at the top near the threads (under the spring), you will be ready to reinstall. With a screwdriver, screw it in (to the right)till it bump stops (do<u> not</u> tighten). Then turn it out (to the left) 2 1/2 turns. You may have to fine-tune adjust this setting after the engine starts.
3) If you have gas running out the carb, then its likely the float/needle valve that needs cleaning up. I would put in a new carb rebuild kit (KH 25-757-01)if you have to clean out the bowl, check the float and the needle valve & seat.
Myron B
1) On the top of the carb is the loooong main jet needle.....These are hollow and when allowed to sit over winter with no fuel stabilizer, fuel will often gum them up. It will not run much ,if any, if this is plugged or partially plugged.
2) Remove the loooong needle (don't lose the spring) and with a can of spray carb cleaner, put the little red tube on one of the holes at the tip. Block the other side and when you can get spray coming out all three levels (there other holes in the middle and at the top near the threads (under the spring), you will be ready to reinstall. With a screwdriver, screw it in (to the right)till it bump stops (do<u> not</u> tighten). Then turn it out (to the left) 2 1/2 turns. You may have to fine-tune adjust this setting after the engine starts.
3) If you have gas running out the carb, then its likely the float/needle valve that needs cleaning up. I would put in a new carb rebuild kit (KH 25-757-01)if you have to clean out the bowl, check the float and the needle valve & seat.
Myron B
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Edward T.-
Also if you haven't already it would be a good idea to drain out that old gas and put in fresh stuff. It really doesn't take gas too long to go bad, and these old Kohlers aren't very forgiving with old, stale fuel.
Also if you haven't already it would be a good idea to drain out that old gas and put in fresh stuff. It really doesn't take gas too long to go bad, and these old Kohlers aren't very forgiving with old, stale fuel.
PTO DISSASSEMBLY
Hey all,
Ok, I ran the tiller & now seem to have some trouble with the PTO. I think the PTO is basically not coming out so I took the three set screws out & the PTO will not come out. I think the problem is that the PTO has spun a bit so that it has created a spur underneath. Hence it's not allowing me to take the front section off. Does anyone have any ideas how to get this thing off???
Hey all,
Ok, I ran the tiller & now seem to have some trouble with the PTO. I think the PTO is basically not coming out so I took the three set screws out & the PTO will not come out. I think the problem is that the PTO has spun a bit so that it has created a spur underneath. Hence it's not allowing me to take the front section off. Does anyone have any ideas how to get this thing off???
hwcarter
Member
Brian there are 2 set screws in each hole. Total of 6 to remove.
Brian - There's 2 sets of screws in those holes 
Check the FAQ above, it'll give ya instructions on removal. Actually it's sitting on a bearing that has a locking collar on the bearing. In theory you can just hank it off without taking out the screws but it could cause bad internal damage.
Check the FAQ above, it'll give ya instructions on removal. Actually it's sitting on a bearing that has a locking collar on the bearing. In theory you can just hank it off without taking out the screws but it could cause bad internal damage.
Oh Harold & Kentucky Ken,
You guys are profits & judas in the same breath LOL! I'm looking again if I missed something OK but I thought I was good to go & I'm in the shop throughing a fit talking to myself on why it's not working!
You guys are profits & judas in the same breath LOL! I'm looking again if I missed something OK but I thought I was good to go & I'm in the shop throughing a fit talking to myself on why it's not working!
Brian R: What the Service Manual, Page 2-41, Paragraph 5, for the Model 71 actually says is: Remove the jam set screws (that's 1) and the lock set screws (that's 2) from <u>each</u> of the three holes in clutch pulley housing". When I went school, 2 x 3 = 6 ....
Myron B
Myron B
