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Archive through March 16, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bcarl

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
Messages
157
Location
Halifax, PA
displayname
Bruce Carl
Kirk,

I like the muffler, but I'm thinking it will create quite a bit of a dust storm under dry conditions with the muffler exhaust turned down toward the ground.
 
RANDY - I have a "Parts ONLY" 123 CC chassis that has sat outside since I got it about 5 yrs ago and probably LONG before that as well. If I put a vice-grip on the input to the hydro pump the rear axles still spin so I really doubt Your problem is anything other than the control linkage.

I'm curious also to see how that muffler sounds on that CC KIRK. I need to quiet My K321 in My 72 down a bit more to keep the CFO happy.
 
Guys,
A couple of questions. The shut off valve on the fuel bowl assembly on my 104 doesn't shut off the fuel to the carb.

First question: On the parts list below, does item 85 buy the WHOLE fuel bowl assembly?

116081.jpg


116082.jpg


It's looks like it, but according to the price, the sum of the parts is a few times higher. The bowl assembly is $13 and change - the same price is listed just for the bowl. I could buy just the needle valve assembly, but it's almost $10 itself.

Second question: Is this assembly from Hapco the same?

http://www.hapcoparts.com/fuelbowlassembly.aspx
 
Terry, CC Specialties, sells the whole assembly for $9.00. Click on the link and scroll about 2/3 of the way down. I believe you are correct #85 is the entire assembly.
 
Thanks, Kraig. That's an excellent price - I also see some other things that I might need.
 
Terry, every time I browse CC Specialties or any of the forum sponsors site's I find way too much stuff I need!
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Terry-

I put one of those on one of my tractors. They work, but you should order the bowl gasket from Kohler and use it in place of the one that comes with the bowl assembly...The one that comes with the bowl assembly is a POS. Mine leaked from the get-go until I bought a new gasket from Kohler...
 
Hey guys, heres whats probably another well used question. I'm trying to finish my 100 and I'm not sure what color of white paint goes on the rims and hood. I have some good gloss white I can use and it looks like a pretty close match to the old paint but I want it to be the right color. I'm using rattle cans by the way, I'm a poor boy.
 
Matt, hmmmm, I have one on my Killer Kohler, no leaking with mine. Perhaps you just got a defective one????
dunno.gif
 
Michael, if you have a Fleet Farm or TSC nearby they sell a Valspar brand paint in IH white (or was it IH Beige?) that is a very close match. I believe the color number is 5339-26.
 
Michael R,
Krylon Rust Tough Almond (# RTA-9207) is a pretty close match to the three CC whites. Don't use a plain bright white. It needs to be a beige or off-white.
 
Keith, I've got a set of those... never have figured out what they're from, but I lean toward Simplicity or Bolens for some unknown reason.
 
Jason,
I thought maybe some Sear variety since the guy who owned the 149 they came off of had a bunch of Sears 3pt implements there too. Also having the small spread bolt pattern for the later model Craftsman wheels.

I know a guy with some IH weights he painted an ugly yellow on a RF JD. I'm going to see if he'll trade me. He also had a lot of Sears stuff.
 
terry i had the same problem and when I tried to fix it went to a couple of dealers and they where not able to get the part for me so what we did was put a inline fuel shut off right at the tanks and ran a fuel line to the carb have no problem it only took like three minutes to fix it all up have no problem with it love this set up. What they do is drill out the opening in the fuel tank alittle and push in a rubber like gasket and then put in the fuel shut off very easy and simple and cheap. they told me new tractors are comeing from the factory like this. this is just another option for you.
 
When i bought my 71 saturday the PO said it always seemed like the plow was to high when he mounted it so he made extension brackes that he bolted to te sub frame. this is fine but when i drive up a slope or in a dip it catches the ground, i didnt know if this sub frame is correct or if i should bolt it directly to the frame like i think it is supposted to be?
116091.jpg

i think the top bolt hole circled in black should be bolted to where the extension bracket is bolted... is that right???
 
Also can someone post the deminsions for a headlight pannel for a 100 and a 71, im mainly concerned with where the holes go for the lights, spacing from the edges, ect.
 
Question for the Tiller Pro's, will a model 2 tiller work on a 100? Thanks guys.
 
I have one of those look what followed me home last weekend. I belive it is an MTD built cub though.
Here are the numbers,
Model: *143580399*
Serial No. *2050599U715838*

Could someone verafiy the year built for me as I don't have that info in the files I have.
116095.jpg
 
So Wayne Miller, I got home and checked the tiller pulley alignment. Like you said, the mounting holes for the arms are slightly worn, causing the tiller to wobble back and forth. When I tighten the belt, the alignment goes off. So I plan on fixing this by welding plate onto the arms and re-drilling the 1/2" hole. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the advice.
 

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