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Archive through March 06, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Thanks for the advice on my 682. I'll take a chance and get a bottle of Cermax from Charlie. If spending $$ on Cermax helps me avoid spending $$$$ on a new engine, it will be well worth it.

In the meantime, I've got 149's and a 782, and this 682 is my first CC without a hydraulic lift. From what I've read there is a 'spring assist' option. Does this part assist in lifting rear or front implements? Or does it help with the mower deck? I haven't yet removed the tunnel cover, but peering in from behind the CC I don't see anything that looks like the spring assist I've seen on Charlie's website. Of course I'm assuming this spring assist goes inside the CC and isn't an external attachment. As always your advice is appreciated.
 
Francis, What engine does this 582 have? I thought a 582 had a single cylinder.
 
Matt Gonitzke
(My Cub Site has moved...bookmark the new site!)

Are you sure its not over here?
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They weather heres is great, almost tea shirt lol
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Roy,

The spring assist helps you pull the lift handle toward you, therefore it works for both front and rear attachments. I never needed one for a 36" snow thrower, 42" push blade or mower deck, but I hear lifting a rear mounted tiller is very hard with out a spring assist. For the larger throwers (H48) and 52" blades a spring assist might be good.

Jim
 
Well..... I'm heading out next weekend to bring home the next addition to my family.

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Do you think it would be worth an 8 hour drive one way to pick up this one for just over 800 bucks?
 
Dennis I guess my question was are the clips supossed to be coated as mine seem to have been and I do have the clips they are missing most of the coating though. so thanks for the info
 
Dennis, a while back Kraig mentioned putting heat shrink tubing on clips as a repair. Maybe tonite or tomorrow he will repost a picture.
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Marty looks good... have to change them decals tho lol... and to answer your question it will be a parts tractor most likely
 
Matt or anyone,
Why are the decals on this cub different from most of the others? From what I can find out, these came from "IH" (part # IH-2750813R).
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MartyA: Go to my web site and click on enter. There you will see an Original with correct hood decals. Notice the "International" script. You've got late MTD made decals which are not like the original IH decals were.. why?? only MTD knows that... Get yourself some new correct ones from a forum sponsor.

Myron B
www.CCSupplyRoom.com
 
hi guys, i have a friend that has a 1204 cub and wants to know if the attachments from 1250 cubs will fit? when were the 1204's made are they good?}
 
Myron,
Thanks for the information. I still have to drive over 500 miles and pay for this cub before I can change the decals, but I am "chomping at the bit" to go get it. I just have to convince my boss to let me have a day off! Do you think begging will help?
 
We'll after a couple of years of nursing my k161 along I finally decided it's time for an engine overhaul. A couple of years back a broken rod took off the lower part of the cyliner and a chunk off the piston skirt. A new rod and rings and I had it running decent again.

Last year I sheared the key off in the flywheel and it took a chunk out of the flywheel key way. I replaced the key and had it running, but I keep shearing keys off from time to time. The crankshaft is a bit buggered up as well. I figure it's time to do an overhaul.

I've got a lead on a used block, crank, flywheel and rod. Guy wants $140, but I think I can talk him down some. I'll need to pick up a piston and ring set.

I don't really have any speciality tools and this is the first major engine overhaul I've done. Any suggestions and recommendations from the experts on tools and engine parts to replace (like seals, etc.) are appreciated.
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. And I do have the Kohler engine servive manual.

Thanks!

Bruce
 
JEFF, ALLEN - Yes, heat-shrink tubing, Plasti-dip, anything with durability & insulating abilities will work for those elec. wire clips. New ones at the hardware stores are cheap too.

My DAD bought an assortment of what I think they call "Army-Navy Clamps" which have a buna (black) or silicon (red) rubber insert in sizes up to like 2 inches in diameter. The rubber inserts wrap around the metal strap, make a very professional looking wiring or plumbing job. I also keep a L-O-T of nylon tie straps, mostly in red, and convoluted conduit around the shop to run wiring in. And I've also used stainless steel wire mesh around rubber fuel lines on my Super H. SON actually plumbed the fuel system on the K321 We installed in the 72 a couple years ago. It's a little "OVER-KILL" with the anodized alum. AN fittings and stainless braided fuel line. But OHHHH does it look neat!
 
BRUCE C. - re: rebuilding a K161. I'd contact one of the sponsors of this site (colorful boxes above) about buying a complete K161/181 engine to rebuild.
I'd look harder for a K181, the 1/4" longer stroke really makes them a more usable engine, more torque. And they look identicle to the K161.

I'd find a local machine shop to do all the machine work, boring, honing, grinding valve seats, planing the head for flatness. But the reassembly of the engine is FUN, saves a bunch of money, and you can learn so much.
Even with the bare minimum of hand tools and the Kohler Classic manual it's not hard to reassemble a K161/181. Only "Special Tools" needed is a set of feeler gauges and a 3/8" bending beam torque wrench. A valve spring compressor, piston ring compressor, and piston ring installer are nice but not actually required if your careful or inventive.

I'd replace the exhaust valve, conn. rod, piston, rings, and all the gaskets & seals, plug, points, condensor, maybe the plug wire too. Use new parts on all these, either Kohler or good after-market.
 
Dennis:
Army-Navy clamps...
like this? - If so, they're called "Adel Clamps"
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I used to have access to a lot of these - mainframe computers used lots of 'em..
 
Hey Fellas,
Well, i know i have been kind of persistant on this issue my 124 has had with the shuttin down thing. So i cleaned all the connections and charged the bat a bit, and that seemed to help a little, cause it ran a lot longer than last time, although it did do that shutdown thing again. I was leanin' towards the coil as the issue, but i thought that maybe changing the oil would solve the issue also,(could be a sticky valve). I replaced the condenser, and cleaned the fuel bowl out, and tank out. Can anyone tell me why my 124 has this continuous issue? I have tried all kinds of things, and nothing seems to solve the problem. Need some help here! Thanks!
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