Archive through June 23, 2005

[mgonitzke]

Unusually high values measured across the battery with the engine running can be a sign that it's overcharging. Does your tractor have an ammeter? If so, it will probably be pegged on the "charge" side (assuming it is wired correctly and functions properly) . You need to adjust your voltage regulator like it says to in the manual. You could try testing it again with the charging circuit disconnected and see if you get 12 volts or another erroneous reading. If you are still getting weird numbers then your tester might be bad. When I have this problem I like to put a known working regulator on the tractor to see if that is the problem. If you are new to Cub Cadets you probably don't have any spares lying around, so you could replace the voltage regulator with a new one.

Good luck!

Oh, and you're getting 0VAC because AC stands for alternating current in this context and this is a DC electrical system.

(Message edited by mgonitzke on June 23, 2005)

 

[sheckert]

Thank You, I was leaning towards the regulator. I have a few other problems and questions but I'll wait for another day. Don't want to be annoying asking a bunch of questions. Won't have a lawn in untill next year so no real need to have it running perfect until snow flies in another month or so the way our weather has been going. Thank You.... Oh yeah I know I wouldn't ( or shouldn't ) get any VAC. I wasn't quite sure what is in the gen such as Diodes/ rectifers like auto ALT. Last night at work I read up on my books and looked at the parts breakdown and realized what you said. I didn't think I would get VAC but then again I wasn't suspecting 66VDC either. Thanks

Scott~~~

(Message edited by sheckert on June 23, 2005)

 

[jcourrege]

Another voltage regulator question. I have a 1450, the amp meter was showing a discharge so I broke out my multi meter tested the B+ lead going to the regulator and got 12.6 v dc. Fired up the tractor checked AC v across the stater leads and got 24v ac. Measured DC v on B+ lead with tractor running and the meter jumps all over the scale. Changed Voltage Regulator after talking to my local dealer, and he told me that 24 V on the stater was close enough to the 28 V recommended by the manufacturer in the manuel and that it should be ok. Apparently something else is wrong. I just have no idea what it is. Also performed continuity check across the stater and got a reading of .2 ohms checked it to ground and shows no short. Could the stater be the problem or would you suggest looking elsewhere and if so where?I just can't figure this out. Thanks for any help you guys can offer.
Jack

 

[rbedell]

Jack C:

Here is a Charging Diagram for your 1450. The input is approx 28.0 VAC and the output is 14.7 VDC at maximum. DC Voltage is checked to Ground or negative side of battery.

There is additional information from page 8.14 in the Kohler Service Manual
(http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2379.pdf

(Message edited by rbedell on June 23, 2005)

 

[bmcmeen]

Scott Heckert -

Not only do you not need to constantly repost your questions, you also don't need to repost when the forum "auto-archives." I've removed your duplicate post.

Thanks in advance...

 

[jcourrege]

Roland, thanks for the response, but this is the test I performed and I do not get the 14.7 max, at that point I get the meter going crazy, it goes from negative to positive and all numbers inbetween, flashing like lightening. I also get 24V instead of 28 from the stater.... don't know what the deal is with this!

 

[digger]

Well thanks to Travis and another forum LURKER by the name of Jim M. in Stevens Point,Wisconsin, I brought home a SUPER 107 & blade today.

THANKS again guys!
This one is for Bryan! SHE DID IT AGAIN! LOL

 

[rbedell]

Jack C:

I don't know what you mean by "Meter going Crazy".
You didn't say, or I didn't catch it, but I assume you are using a digital VOM. Perhaps a Analog VOM would be better. When checking these voltages, you have to switch between AC & DC. I know sometimes I forget to do this with my Fluke and I get odd readings when this happens - LOL. The 24VAC sounds a little on the weak side but it could be a number of things to cause this including "dirt build up" on or around the stator. The 14.7 VDC is a Maximum input to the battery. As long as you are between 12.0 and 14.7 the V/R is probably doing it's job.

 

[bmcmeen]

Charlie -

Thanks. Now Julie's jealous again. Sigh...

 

[tturner]

What is the smallest hour meter that you guys know about, it must have a flat back and have the wires not interfering with the back, thanks Tyler

I would like one identical to a Tiny Tach, I had a bad experience with Tiny Tach last year and don't want to do business with them, so I figured that I would try and find someone else. Thanks again Tyler

 

[lbuttke]

FYI,
For those intrested, there is a garden tractor show in Arkansaw Wi. this saturday 10am-4pm.

Don't know foe sure if this is the correct place to post this but I did not see an events page, but than again I could have missed seeing it.

 

[jinfante]

well... i started working on my new 128, cleaning it out and rewiring etc., when i found the end cap for the shifter knob (r-1-2-3). i start looking at it and find that international harvester had glued 2 of them together. so my question is does anyone need the extra? i know itll fit a 128 or 1200, part number 2751365-R2

P.S.-NOT interested in selling this, this is an "anyone who needs it can have it" deal

(Message edited by jinfante on June 24, 2005)

 

[tcbusch]

Peter S,
Piston slap is caused by a piston being smaller than the cylinder. If you bored and re-piston-ed the motor than most likely the piston is tight.

If it was me, and I couldn't find the source, I would just ignore the noise until something breaks.

 

[tturner]

This is a dumb question, because I know that it has been answered, but I just want to double check.

A friend has a 147 with the electric lift gears run out of it. So, would it be best just to put a manual lift on?

He also has a 122, will the lift handle off of that work?? I think it should I just want reassurance on everything.

Thanks Tyler

 

[hmgould]

A Cub 682 is trying to come home with me. I have a 149 I use every day and a 70 I plan to restore. I really need another Cub but the Red looks funny. Are these good tractors? What do you all think of them?

 

[tturner]

They are great tractors, you won't miss your single cylinder motor once you pick up your new 682. Tyler

 

[rbedell]

Herbert G:

I have a 782 (same as a 682 only with hydraulics) and I love it. I would NOT give up this Cub.

 

[agitch]

Herbert, I have a 682 that I have put hyd lift on and I love it. As long as I can keep getting parts for it I will always have it.

 

[tcbusch]

Tyler,
Yes,
Manual lifts are better than electric. If you are mowing, then both are fine. If you are blading the driveway, a manual is better. You can float the blade easier, you can raise and lower the blade much faster, etc. The same is true for a snow thrower. I would recommend a spring assist for snow throwers and plows.

If the 122 is a NF then the manual lift will work fine. You will need to raise the front of the tractor off the ground a few feet, but you should be able to slide it in. It might not fit at first. This would be due to the fact that manual lifts bend from hard use. There isn't much room to fit the lever by the fan shroud. You might need to bend the lever back into shape.

 

[bmarshall]

Hey IH Fellas,
Haven't posted in a while, but have been watching. I have a 123 that has worn the dowel drive pin opening so that the pin falls out. Any fixes short of a new drive shaft? I really don't need another project... Thanks