Archive through June 17, 2012

[hydroharry]

Brian W - I'm with Brian, if you have the front axle off you won't have any issue installing the front engine mounting bolts. As for your axle problem, the most common problem is the worn pin and the axle channel spreading open. You really don't want the engine in the way when you squeeze the channel back to correct width. In fact, I'm not sure you can do it with the engine still installed. You have to over tighten the nut/bolt slightly in order to get the channel to stay the correct width once you release the nut. You'll have to install the bolt and nut, squeeze the channel, remove it and check the axle fit, several times before you get to the best axle fit. It's a bigger problem if you happen to overdo it and the axle won't fit back in. You have to reverse the process on the nut and bolt and use it to spread the channel back open. I just don't see how you could do this with the engine installed. Guys wtih a 10hp flat oil pan could possibly but the dished pan on a 12/14/16 will be in the way on the others. And get yourself a new axle pin if you can see where it's worn from riding on the bushing. Generally the bushing itself will still be ok.

 

[fcurrier]

Don T.: It's TDH. Now I can taste it. Somewhat ancient - not like wine that's supposed to get better in time. Took the filter off. It's not old enough to have the wrenchable option on the front, it IS IH, but it's # 395 784 R2. Whatever. When I left the Cubhouse (for the night) Miss Kitty was very comfortable
on a $130 seat! Priceless.

A new filter is just under 1#. I'm anxious to see what the old one weighs after it's drained out.

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

Do you remember back when the pin came out on my 129 loader . I used a piece of wood so I could not draw the channel to tight . I did just lift the engine and slid a piece of wood to hold the engine up so the pan was not in my way .I used a bolt and drilled the nut for rolled pin so I would not have to do that repair again . It does have some play ,I think some play is good .

The loader bucket did make it easy to get the 129 back to the shop. I just chained the bucket fast to my rear lift on my 1512 and lifted the front up a drove the 129 into the shop.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Frank C. Thank You for the picture of Miss Kitty. Fancy and the other kitties think she is beautiful. Plus she is safeguarding that nice seat for you.

Troy R. Cool Original.

Everyone have a safe and fun-filled week.

 

[bjamison]

Harry - is it necessary to replace the axle when I squeeze the frame/axle channel back to the correct width?

 

[lhinds]

Dennis i had a 127 with a 44a deck that worked very good. It used the humpback subframe and the belt pulley brackets had been turned to line up the belt with the deck pulley. I think i have posted pictures of it on here with the trac vac on it.I will see if the guy still has that tractor and try to get some pictures.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - I'll answer for Harry, he's on the left coast, probably hasn't had that first cup of coffee yet!

You can re-use the axle you have if it's O-K, no cracks, gouges, etc. The WF tractors had a lot beefier axle than the NF tractors did. I've seen pic's here of a couple broken axles, I think TWO. Normally a deep hole, or a tree, or a wheelie were involved. I've seen more broken spindles by far than axles.

Place I used to work at 20 yrs ago had special "Shim washers", they were about .002" or .003" thk stainless sheet laminated together about 1/8th inch thick, you pried off as much thickness as you needed and installed them. I've run out of the supply I had of them but they were great for assembling things you later needed to add washers to compensate for wear.

Many people use a castlated nut on the bolt that replaces the pivot pin, so when wear develops on the pivot again they can tighten the nut on the bolt. IH even went to that design on the later tractors.

LUTHER - I'd be interested in seeing some pic's of the 44A on a 127. Seems like I tried to put the hump-back part of the WF mule drive on the NF mule drive quik-tach bracket and something wouldn't work right, or maybe I just needed a special length belt I didn't have. If I could put a 44A under my 72 I could cut my mowing time by about 15%, from 4-1/2 to 5 Hrs to 3-1/2 to 4 hrs.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Troy, nice original condition Original!

Even has a Brinly Gard-N-Cart. Sweet!

 

[mschutz]

Troy, That original is nice. Looks to be in good shape.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's an old photo from the Archives of a 1x2 with a 44" deck. No other info on it. Looks to have a hump back style carriage.

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - That looks like John Lang's 122. Think it's the only blue/white CC I've seen.

Guess I never noticed he used a 44A deck with it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, yep, it's the one that John has (had?) Looks like he installed a 42" deck.

 

[pfunk]

There’s a young guy named Sam Hornbeck who is working with his Uncle to restore a Cub Cadet 125. You may have read about Sam in LAGT magazine. Anyway, I got to know them when they asked a friend and me for some advice about the restoration. They’ve done a really fine job on the restoration, but when they got the tractor back together they’re having trouble with the operation of the hydrostat. They sat the hydrostat up like it specifies in the manual – get the left rear wheel off the ground, adjust the hydrostat until the wheel doesn’t rotate, etc. I haven’t driven the tractor, but Sam called me asking for advice. He said the tractor is really fast in reverse and really slow forward. I haven’t seen the tractor move so I don’t know what “really slow” and “really fast” means exactly, but obviously it’s faster in reverse the forward. And, again, they set it up according to the directions in the manual. Almost all my tractors are gear drive so I’ve done very little messing with hydrostats. Can you give me some advice on what to tell Sam to check, change, etc. TIA

 

[fcurrier]

Paul: Worst thing I can think of is a bad relief valve.

 

[wcompton]

As far as I remember John Lang was happy with the deck on that 122, but lift height was very limited, even with the "humpback" carriage. Seems as though he removed the belt cover in an effort to squeeze a little more lift height out of them.

 

[aaytay]

Paul-
I'm not an expert with these hydros, but it sounds like the pump was put back on the front of the hydro upside down. IIRC, that would make it do what you described..

 

[wshytle]

Paul-

It sounds like Sam and his uncle put the swashplate in backwards. It states in the manual to make sure to get the tab/stop on the back of the swashplate in the right direction. I've heard of guys doing this to get the forward speed os a reversed rearend when making a 4x4 hydro.

 

[bwittman]

Kraig,

that is a very nice ChiCub tractor. I think is is an unique project. I hate to be picky, but what is that green and yellow stuff in the background? LOL


The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!

 

[bwittman]

Harry, Bill and Dennis ~

Thank you so much for the information on tightening the front axle mounting channel. I can see this is going to take a pretty good micrometer and caliper set. I should get the engine set on the ground this evening, and be able to have a better look as the situation. I learned today that the motor mounts are awful, so I hope I will have the thing back together by August.

I appreciate all the advice that everyone gives here, without being judgemental. Seriously, folks, I couldn't take on this project without you.


Of all the things I have lost, I think I miss my mind the most.

 

[digger]

Matt S.
I've got the bearing, now all I have to do is get the collar attached to the outside like the one from Cub Cadet on the right and we'll have a CHEAP replacement for those EXPENSIVE one's from Cub.